Ask a Local: the perfect weekend in Rio according to designer Chica Capeto

From the colourful markets and beach scenes to hit, to the delicious local dishes and art boutiques she seeks out along the way
Ask a Local the perfect weekend in Rio according to designer Chica Capeto

Ask a Local is a new series where we ask clued-up insiders to share their top tips for the place they call home.

Take one glance at designer Chica Capeto’s vivid creations and you’ll tumble into a kaleidoscope of bold primary and soothing pastel colours. It’s hard to look away. While her passion for design inherited from her mom – Rio de Janeiro womenswear designer Isabel Capeto – Chica has made her own mark as an eclectic artist, printmaker, and fashion designer. Her versatile designs splash across a range of media, from funky furniture items to breezy resort wear and vibrant fingernail colours, all inspired by the sparkling hues of her balmy hometown of Rio. Here’s how she spends her perfect weekend in the Brazilian paradise, from the colourful markets and beach scenes to hit, to the delicious local dishes and art boutiques she seeks out along the way.

Fashion designer Chica Capeto in her mother’s art-filled home.

André Duvivier

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Designer Chica Capeto’s favourite places in Rio de Janiero

Typically donning a ready-for-anything white linen blouse, denim shorts and Brazil’s classic Havaianas, Chica kicks off her Rio weekend at a curbside table at Quitéria Café, part of the Ipanema Inn just a tree-lined block from the eponymous beach. The designer recommends ripe avocado and egg paste slathered on tangy house-made sourdough, washed down with iced sweet mate and lemon.

Ipanema Beach is backdropped by dramatic mountain peaks.

Ipanema Inn

Ipanema Inn's Quitéria Café is just one tree-lined block away from the eponymous beach.

Ipanema Inn

After breakfast, Chica grabs a taxi or e-bike to the “must-go” Praça XV Saturday flea market where she combs through bustling stalls for vintage garb and retro home decor. Or, if she’s looking to connect with nature, Chica opts for a serene stroll through Rio’s vast Botanical Garden where royal palms open onto a tropical Eden. To refuel after exploring, sit down for a comforting lunch at Guimas in the verdant Gávea neighbourhood – where Chica doodles on paper tablecloths while the homey kitchen prepares filling dishes like steak frites or moqueca seafood stew.

Beach scenes and art museums

It wouldn’t be Rio without the beach. But before heading there, Chica likes to pick up some edgy threads at swimwear boutique Haight in the tony Leblon neighbourhood. "The bikinis make me feel amazing,” she says.

Hotel Arpoador is one of Rio’s iconic beachfront hotels, complete with a sunny rooftop lounge.

Leonardo Finotti

On the steamy praia, Chica recommends getting a thirst-quenching coconut water and fresh seafood snacks at a beach kiosk: Her favourite is Soga Beach at Sao Conrado: “They often have DJs playing as the sun goes down over the beach.” For another dining option on the sand, Chica also likes the Peruvian fusion options at La Carioca Cevicheria on Ipanema Beach.

While the sun still beams over her vibrant city, Chica likes to explore the photography, music, and literature collections at mansion-turned-museum Instituto Moreira Salles, a visual arts gem in the lush Tijuca Forest of Gávea. Or she might head to the Banco do Brasil Cultural Center (CCBB)’s galleries, library, and cinema to behold the work of local urban artists like muralists Cibelle Arcanjo, Jairo Torre (also known as SCRAU), and Rodrigo Sini.

The hotel for beach views and a rooftop pool

Chica’s dream staycation is anchored at Hotel Arpoador, one of the only hotels in Rio that’s perched right on the beach straddling Ipanema and Copacabana beaches. With gentle waves outside and muted tones inside, this is Chica’s perfect spot to chill out before the evening’s adventures. She recommends a dip in the unique triangular-shaped pool on the rooftop, where watching the sunset is “a must.”

Arp Bar at Hotel Arpoador is one of Chica's favorite breakfast cafes.

André Klotz

The Arp pancake from Arp Bar's breakfast menu

Arp Bar

Night to day: Samba dancing and day trip-worthy Bahian food 

Rio’s heady nightlife might start with refreshing caipirinhas at Pedra do Sal, a historic neighbourhood and cradle of samba “where people just park their cars, get out, and dance.” For a samba bar downtown there’s Botequim Vaca Atolada, “a buzzy, no-frills little place” that hosts live bands. 

Come Sunday morning, Chica will linger over an “insanely good” breakfast at the Hotel Arpoador’s Arp Bar, where she savours a cup of local coffee with oat milk. Among the tempting offerings on the hotel restaurant’s menu are poached eggs with charcoal-grilled mushrooms and a dash of truffle oil. Once she’s had her fill, Chica wanders still more of the city’s artist enclaves – like Casa Bicho which is tucked amid the arches of Rio landmark Sugarloaf Mountain, or the avant-garde studios of whitewashed Casa Voa. “My home is full of art,” she says, “and so much of it is from going to these places and picking up prints or pieces.”

If the sea calls again, Chica also loves to venture to the pearly sands and salt marshes of peaceful Grumari, located about an hour west of Rio. From there, head to hilltop restaurant Bira de Guaratiba to munch on traditional Bahian fare, like acarajé fritters with beans and fried shrimp, while taking in sweeping views of majestic Marambaia beach.

Quartinho Bar is a laid-back spot with mismatched furniture and great Bloody Marys.

Mzno/Filipe Marques

And as the weekend winds down, back in Rio, Chica heads to Quartinho Bar in the bohemian Botafogo neighbourhood for scrumptious fried tapioca cubes with a tongue-tingling pepper jam and a Bloody Mary. Owned by another local designer, the barn-like space has a “great vibe” that’s reflected in colourful art adorning the exposed-brick walls. Alternatively, if Chica has a yearning for camera-ready sushi instead, she reaches for the chopsticks at San or nearby Pabu Izakaya, in trendy Leblon.

Chica's radiant designs evoke Rio’s rich cultural and gastronomic palette, from the city’s international art and food scenes to its natural surroundings, she says. “A lot of my designs are inspired by the colours and vibrations of Rio and the people I meet there.”