The best restaurants in Edinburgh
It’s not one size fits all when it comes to the best restaurants in Edinburgh. Just like the city they’re found in, these eateries are wonderfully nuanced and diverse.
Edinburgh’s charm is held tight in its ancient winding streets and each of its neighbourhoods holds distinct experiences waiting to be discovered by those on the hunt for Scotland’s best food. Leith is home to creative, cool bars and restaurants like Ardfern and Eleanore, while Stockbride’s well-heeled clientele has created demand for fine-dining experiences such as the chef’s counter at eòrna.
As this city is home to the largest arts festival in the world, the best restaurants in Edinburgh see some solid foot traffic come August as hungry culture hoppers seek out the hottest places to eat. Answering their call are the restaurants of Scotland’s capital, which offer everything from Michelin-starred menus to casual wine bars, representing some of the best cooking found anywhere in the UK. Whatever your taste, budget or dietary requirements, these are the best restaurants in Edinburgh for every occasion.
How many Michelin-star restaurants are in Edinburgh?
Edinburgh has five one-Michelin-star restaurants – more than any other city in Scotland. This list includes old hands The Kitchin and Restaurant Martin Wishart, plus the intimate Condita, with only six tables. The additions for 2023 were Heron and Timberyard with none being allocated in 2024. It also has four Bib Gourmand restaurants, which are awarded the accolade for serving great food at a reasonable price point. These include Tipo and Noto – both owned by Stuart Ralston - as well as The Scran & Scallie and The Bonnie Badger.
What food is Edinburgh famous for?
The city still loves to nod to traditional Scottish fare, such as haggis and black pudding. You’ll find plenty of places serving such stuff around the Old Town and the Royal Mile. For a contemporary take on Scottish food try Lyla or Fhior - both of which are fine-dining restaurants which major in transforming locally sourced produce into awe-inspiring plates.
How we choose the best restaurants in Edinburgh
Every restaurant on this list has been selected independently by our editors and written by a Condé Nast Traveller journalist who knows the destination and has eaten at that restaurant. When choosing restaurants, our editors consider both high-end and affordable eateries that offer an authentic and insider experience of a destination. We're always looking for stand-out dishes, a great location and warm service – as well as serious sustainability credentials. We update this list regularly as new restaurants open and existing ones evolve.
Murray OrrBest fine dining and Michelin-starred restaurants in Edinburgh
Lyla
Best for: a big blowout
If you love all the bells and whistles of a tasting menu, you won’t find anything quite as exacting as Lyla anywhere else in the city. It’s by Stuart Ralston (of Aizle et al), and it’s the chef’s final showpiece, he says, swearing it’s the last restaurant he’ll ever cook in. The results have an unbeatable quality about them, with course after course of sublime combinations presented to diners: tiny little canape tarts that shatter at the lightest touch; an umami bomb set custard; insanely good wagyu with marrow, crispy onions and pickled walnut; and delicate fish dishes presented to be enjoyed in single, explosive bites. The dining room is swish, the tables are generously sized, the staff are of a serious standard, and there’s an open kitchen for a good dose of theatre, too. The price might be punchy, but if you love foodie experiences, this is a meal you’ll remember for a very long time.
Address: 3 Royal Terrace, Edinburgh EH7 5AB
Website: lylaedinburgh.co.uk
Eorna
Best for: special occasion dining
Eorna offers dinner and a double act via its 12-seater chef’s table. From your perch, you’ll have a front-row view of Chef Brian Grigor and sommelier Glen Montgomery at work as they masterfully work the room, serving plates and pours. This is Scottish fine dining at its best, with dishes that celebrate the country’s larder in inventive ways. Each course smacks of the seasons – whether that’s a summer sweet strawberry strawberry dessert or a generous slice of the surrounding rivers’ best salmon later in the year. Everything’s accompanied by interesting wines, and Glen’s affable personality and natural Irish charm gels the whole thing together for a night of merriment that proves fine dining can be fun in the right hands.
Address: 68 Hamilton Place, Edinburgh EH3 5AZ
Website: eornarestaurant.com
Murray OrrAvery
Best for: boundary-pushing food
Putting your restaurant in a shipping container from San Francisco and setting sail for foreign shores is admittedly not the status quo, but there’s nothing about Avery that fits the bracket of normal. Chef Rodney Wages took it upon himself to pack up his Michelin-starred spot in America and head for Edinburgh, where he’s recreated his success story in the perfect image of the original. The tasting menu is mind-bending stuff with Willy Wonka-esque inventions like a chorizo broth paired with Scottish seafood or an oyster cream accompanied by a dumpling, caviar lava with anchovy jelly. If nothing else, a meal here is an education in the delight to be found pushing boundaries.
Address: 54 St Stephen Street, Edinburgh EH3 5AL
Website: averyedi.co.uk
Timberyard
Best for: seasonal fare and impeccable ingredients
In a beautifully converted, Scandi-inspired and candlelit brick warehouse just a few minutes from the Grassmarket, you’ll find some of the most exciting food being cooked in Edinburgh. With a focus on ingredients from small, local growers and suppliers and a Nordic flavour, Timberyard’s menu is fresh, seasonal, simple and utterly delicious: a meaty bass is served with mussels, sea beet and a hum of vermouth; caramelised pork belly sits alongside buttery cabbage, kimchi and salted apple; and the roasted pink fir potatoes in a rich shallot herby glaze are some of the best spuds you'll ever try. They also do their own pickling, curing and foraging, and you’ll find plenty of homemade surprises, including dark red berry kombucha on offer. Whether you opt for the full tasting menu at dinner or plump for a smaller set menu at lunch, you’ll have a memorable visit. Timberyard was given one Michelin star in the 2023 award ceremony. Sonya Barber
Address: 10 Lady Lawson Street, Edinburgh EH3 9DS
Website: timberyard.co
David CheskinThe Witchery
Best for: romance
Seek out the distinctive stone townhouse on the left-hand side at the top of the Royal Mile before reaching Edinburgh Castle’s Esplanade, and you’ll find a hidden nook of the 18th-century hanging on today. The restaurant is a vivid Gothic love letter, with flickering candelabras, fluted columns, tasselled curtains and marble busts straight from the prop cupboard of Guillermo Del Toro. It is owned by fabled city restaurateur James Thomson, who runs the equally impressive Prestonfield House hotel. Of the menus, the a la carte main event proves that the classics are often better received than fancy-pants gimmicks. Order the oysters, naked or with mignonette; then praise be for roast guinea fowl, lemon sole, and Scotch beef fillet as bloody as you like. The price tag makes it a special occasion, not a last-minute table with the kids.
Address: 352 Castlehill, Edinburgh EH1 2NF
Website: thewitchery.com
Stephen ListerHeron
Best for: Michelin-star cuisine
Like its feathered, long-legged namesake, this modern Scots restaurant from Sam Yorke has a serious eye for fish and sticks its neck out above so many others. It’s been on the Leith scene for under five years, but in that time, it’s scooped a Michelin Star, and it serves in-the-know locals that aren’t afraid to dip their beaks into playfully layered dishes, such as Orkney scallops with ponzu, or beautifully executed market fish with clams and salty fingers. Even the opening statement is sourdough served with a dollop of brown crab butter. Experienced visitors to Leith will also know this is the priciest part of the city to dine in, and Heron is no exception – the tasting menu with wine pairing, if guaranteed to make you grin, will set you back a neck-cricking £204.
Address: 87, 91A Henderson Street, Edinburgh EH6 6ED
Website: heron.scot
Fhior
Best for: locavore
Minimalist Fhior, with its simple Nordic-style decor, is chef Scott Smith’s venture. Formerly chef-patron of Norn (now closed), Scott has brought his light, bright cooking to Broughton Street, home to a lively tangle of bars and restaurants. The Michelin Guide has praised his creative, intricate cooking, which is inventive but superbly gentle. His ever-changing, seasonal tasting menu has featured highlights like cod with oyster, elderflower and smoked cod sauce and with langoustine goes salted rhubarb and borage.
Address: 36 Broughton Street, Edinburgh EH1 3SB
Website: fhior.com
AwAyeMediaThe Little Chartroom
Best for: laid-back weekend lunches
A low-key neighbourhood bistro formerly on Leith Walk (which is now the site of Eleanore), The Little Chartroom is decked out in woods and warm neutrals. The unpretentious surroundings suit a creative but simple menu: expect crispy lamb belly with white beans, nasturtium, radish and fresh cheese, while crab anolini served with tomato broth. For mains, options might include a rump cap of beef, stuffed hake or BBQ hispi, and you can finish it all off with plum Bakewell tart with treacle soda bread ice cream.
Address: 14 Bonnington Road, Edinburgh EH6 5JD
Website: thelittlechartroom.com
Kristie de GarisAizle
Best for: local, seasonal dishes
Scottish chef Stuart Ralston and the team at Aizle know a thing or two about attention to detail. The multi-course tasting menu at Aizle is a celebration of seasonality and shines a spotlight on the complexity that native Scottish ingredients can bring to the table. Each patron is provided with an ingredient list at the beginning of the meal to help guide them through the dining experience, making for a beautiful surprise. The staff seamlessly took us through each magical course: buttery, golden brioche with chicken liver parfait; silky North Sea crab chawanmushi, and peppery venison tartare paired with sweet, earthy beetroot. We were even provided with a vegetarian menu that was just as thoughtful and inspired as the traditional courses. We would happily make the trip to Edinburgh to dine at Aizle over and over again. Amber Port
Address: 38 Charlotte Square, Edinburgh EH2 4HQ
Website: aizle.co.uk
Abi RadfordBest casual restaurants in Edinburgh
Montrose
Best for: long lunches
The Radford family are some of Edinburgh’s most respected restaurateurs, having run Timberyard for over a decade - their site which gained a Michelin star in 2023. Years later they’ve proven themselves yet again to be at the forefront of the city’s hospitality scene. Montrose is a two-story building with a set menu offering upstairs and a casual, pared-back bar and outside seating downstairs. Plush, linen-draped walls and thickly covered tables in the lofty dining room give it a sense of occasion, but the tactile finishes give it a contemporary edge and stop it from feeling fussy. Four courses of exacting food include snacks to start and focus on the highest quality produce cooked simply, often over coals. Back down among the masses, there are moules frite, balls of burrata, bread and butter, and pickles to devour alongside drinks that range from pints and tinned wines to rare vintage champagnes. It’s the sort of place where you can go for any occasion and leave feeling extremely smug for having nailed the brief.
Address: 1-7 Montrose Terrace, Edinburgh EH7 5DJ
Website: montroserestaurant.co
AwAyeMediaArdfern
Best for: a leisurely brunch
Roberta Hall is a culinary force to be reckoned with in Edinburgh, holding the keys to The Little Chart Room and Eleanore, as well as her latest opening, Ardfern. Here things are markedly more casual, but the same produce is being used by a kitchen team who operate at the same high level as her other restaurants too. The true joy here is twofold: one, the staff are charming and warm, and two, you don’t have to commit to any style of dining. Come in the morning for breakfast doughnuts or a fry up (where every element is homemade, including the sausages and bacon) or drop in as evening sets in for bar snacks like hashbrowns with mushroom ketchup and pecorino and plates piled up with chocolate peanut butter tarts or local cheeses. Even if you don’t fancy food, that’s fine; there’s a far-reaching list of cocktails, cocktails, beers and wines to keep you content - most of which are sold via the shop section, too.
Address: 10-12 Bonnington Road, Edinburgh EH6 5JD
Website: ardfern.uk
AwAyeMediaEleanore
Best for: great value fine-dining
Bright and nuanced, the food at Eleanore celebrates seasonal ingredients with a light touch. It’s a tiny brilliant white space with walls holding shelves or pretty pickle jars and dry-store ingredients, so you sort of feel like you’re among the action while being at a safe distance from the stove. The set lunch is under £40 per person and features dishes like asparagus and wild garlic hash browns, crab croustade with cucumber and bearnaise, or hake au poivre with clams and sherry. Come dinner, you edge into £65 territory, but that still represents great value for the level of cookery on show from Roberta Hall and her team here.
Address: 30-31 Albert Place, Edinburgh EH7 5HN
Website: eleanore.uk
Susie LoweCafe St Honore
Best for: escaping tourist traps
A much-loved city institution cherished by locals, Cafe St Honore is a timeless bistro in the heart of the New Town. Chef Neil Forbes is passionate about sustainability and sourcing, so you’ll often find organic and local ingredients on the menu. Think French classics made with Scottish produce like pork rillette, duck breast with white beans, Stornoway black pudding and a British cheese plate complete with chutney and oatcakes. Come Sunday, there’s an unbeatable roast dinner with spuds, sauces, Yorkshire puds and veggies.
Address: 34 North West Thistle Street Lane, Edinburgh EH2 1EA
Website: cafesthonore.com
Stephen ListeCardinal
Best for: inventive cookery
Tomás Gormley is somewhat of an enfant terrible on the Edinburgh food scene, having started Heron with then business partner Sam Yorke before going on to open both Skua and now Cardinal by himself. And all of this was achieved in his twenties. Cardinal feels like a flexing of everything he’s learned up until this point, with a tasting menu that hones in on delighting diners via surprising elements. Little touches like a beef tallow candle melted and mixed into a pan tableside and a flavour-your-own shaved ice for dessert keep you eager for each course unfolding. A favourite from our visit was a little doughnut to tear and dip into cod’s roe. Service is on point, and there are great drinks, too, for a fully rounded dining experience.
Address: 14 Eyre Place, Edinburgh EH3 5EP
Website: cardinal.scot
James PorteousThe Palmerston
Best for: sustainable dining
On a corner between Princes Street and Haymarket, previously home to tenants including a high street bank and low-key cafe, this terrific all-day restaurant leaves diners with the sense that the chefs constantly obsess over the details of land and sea. The menu changes with each service, with ingredients sourced from local fishermen and farmers, including organic, no-dig The Free Company, located in the fields below the Pentland Hills. So there could be extremely good hogget fagot, ox’s liver, or fish stew, but equally, it might be a more challenging crispy pig’s head or pickled tripe salad. Simply put, the Australian-Scots owners put their trust in bold flavours – there are no dribbles of sauce here – and the measure of its success is it can be as busy on a dreich midweek as on a sunny weekend. The other detail not to overlook is the bakery – perfect for brekkie pastries.
Address: 1 Palmerston Place, Edinburgh EH12 5AF
Website: thepalmerstonedinburgh.co.uk
The Spence at Gleneagles Townhouse
Best for: Art Deco style
For the uninitiated, Gleneagles Townhouse is a gold-star hotel tucked away in the crumpled hills of Perthshire, with two championship golf courses, country sports on tap, and Restaurant Andrew Fairlie, one of Scotland’s two Michelin-star establishments. It took longer than it should have, but the owners saw fit to open a satellite in Edinburgh, and – aside from its swanky rooms – it’s now the place to be for all-day dining, pre-theatre dos and the type of restaurant-goer who insists on a gin and tonic or sherry cobbler before lunch. Design-wise, The Spence is a beauty, with a shouty bas-relief ceiling, marble pillars, decorative bar, pastel pink stools and fern explosions. Like the finest brasseries worldwide, this is also the realm of pricey shellfish and sirloin, chops and rumps, with home turf stars like Mull scallops, Gigha halibut and Tweed Valley prime rib setting you back as much as £110. This fits the well-heeled crowd, though, so remember it's the theatre around you, as well as the drama on your plate, that makes this one of the best restaurants in Edinburgh. If you happen to be in Edinburgh on the last weekend of the month, you can partake in arguably the city’s most decadent event: The Spence Brunch Club. Expect Bloody Mary stations with all the toppings, an unlimited buffet with freshly caught Scottish shellfish and seafood, and the main event: a dessert room.
Address: 39 St Andrew Square, Edinburgh EH2 2AD
Website: gleneagles.com/townhouse
Stephen ListerSkua
Best for: late-night eats
Fine dining fried chicken is something there should be more of out in the world, and Cardinal is answering the call. The interiors here are dark and moody, bringing a bit of edge to Stockbridge with its basement bar aesthetic. It’s all candles and black walls. The menu is the kind of thing where it’s hard to choose between a few expertly curated combinations, but maybe, if you’re lucky, you’ll end up with one of everything. Don’t skip the aforementioned fried chicken with peach hot sauce - it’s the signature dish - and then clean up on plates of doughnuts with smoked cheese and guanciale, grilled sea bass with kale and leeks, or hispi cabbage and kombu. Finish with your choice of excellent cocktails or a dessert like baked cream, Amalfi lemon and oats. Or even better – get both.
Address: 49 St Stephen Street, Edinburgh EH3 5AH
Website: skua.scot
Tipo
Best for: sharing plates
It’s fair to say Stuart Ralston has a little bit of magic about him. With Lyla, Aizle and Noto on his bill of fare, the excellent chef’s latest venture is this ode to the Mediterranean, with audience-pleasing flavours rooted in the warmth of the Tuscan countryside and Sicilian coast. Against a backdrop of a pine floor, softwoods and honeyed lighting, tidy morsels like house-made salumi, duck liver parfait, sea bass crudo, and wafer-thin octopus carpaccio result in top marks and, with the right pairing from the wine list, almost demand losing track of time. Next, it’s hand-tossed pasta – opt for punches of chilli, Roman-style cacio pepe, or rigatoni amped up with vodka – and don’t be embarrassed to go all-out and order more; it’s what the Italians would do. So that means adding in ribeye from the Tweed Valley or crisp-fried bream, then a rippled vanilla and cherry soft serve, which is effectively a joyous day at the seaside in spoonable form.
Address: 110 Hanover Street, Edinburgh EH2 1DR
Website: tipoedinburgh.co.uk
Baba
Best for: Mediterranean twists on Middle Eastern dishes
Baba is one of Edinburgh’s true culinary treasures, seamlessly blending the exquisite tastes of the Levantine region with a contemporary Scottish flair. Housed on George Street, the restaurant fuses modern design motifs with timeless Middle Eastern inspirations. Irresistible mezze platters and indulgent main courses like the meticulously prepared slow-cooked lamb shoulder are on the menu here – the culinary artisans in the kitchen even manage to make broccoli truly mouthwatering. Complemented by a curated array of cocktails and an artful wine selection, a dining experience at Baba is an absolute must.
Address: 130 George Street, Edinburgh EH2 4JZ
Website: baba.restaurant
Kanpai
Best for: sushi in historic surroundings
In the shadow of Edinburgh Castle, this covert sushi restaurant is a lesser-known spot with pale wooden benches, private cushioned booths, hanging lanterns and hand-painted cherry-blossom trees on the walls. The menu is split into five sections: sushi, tempura, teppan, classics and specials – and, naturally, one should order something from each. The hand rolls are delicious little pockets of rice overflowing with toppings; try the asparagus and prawn or the snow crab for something more left-field, or opt for spicy tuna for that classic, tingly wasabi hit. The tempura here is some of the best in the UK – skip the decision-making and order the assorted selection of meat and vegetables fried in a light batter, perfectly crisp but not too crumbly. Everything on the specials menu is worth trying – particularly the ikura shirataki: translucent, hand-cut noodles topped with salmon roe and tempura dashi – but the teppanyaki is the restaurant’s crowning glory. The grilled aubergine drizzled with a sweet miso sauce is the stuff of legends, while the wagyu steak takes on entirely new flavours when cooked on a teppan grill.
Address: 8-10 Grindlay Street, Edinburgh EH3 9AS
Website: kanpaisushiedinburgh.co.uk
The Lookout by Gardener's Cottage
Best for: views of Edinburgh
This restaurant from one of Edinburgh’s old time favourites, Gardener’s Cottage, cantilevers off the north-west slope of Calton Hill. Complete with floor-to-ceiling views across the city and the Firth of Forth, it’s a collaboration between the restaurant group and Collective, who are responsible for the redevelopment of the hilltop observatory into a contemporary art gallery. So, take a hike up the hill to try dishes that were created for Gardener’s Cottage – generally locally sourced and seasonal – but have been revamped for the new location. On the menu there might be potted crab or kippers served with sourdough, roe deer and hazelnut tagliatelle or salt-baked beetroot with goat’s curd.
Address: 38 Calton Hill, Edinburgh EH7 5AA
Website: thelookoutedinburgh.co
Locanda de Gusti
Best for: Naples-inspired cuisine
When you’re craving an authentic, homely Italian meal out, there is perhaps nowhere better than Locanda de Gusti. Located in the West End of Edinburgh, this restaurant makes you feel immediately welcome with its rustic decor and general warmth, assisted by the chatty, knowledgeable staff who are always on hand with tips. You won’t go wrong with any of their pasta dishes, including the paccheri, which is tossed with rich cracked lobster, white crab meat, vesuvian tomatoes, garlic and a splash of brandy, or the orecchiette with slow-cooked lamb shoulder, tomato passata and basil rich ragu. For mains, the Mare nel Piatto – literally ‘sea on the plate’ – is a solid choice for lovers of seafood, with fresh mussels, baby clams, king prawns, langoustines, squid and scallops all on offer.
Address: 102 Dalry Road, Edinburgh EH11 2DW
Website: locandadegusti.com
Noto
Best for: stylish small plates
Having spent time living and working in New York, Scottish chef Stuart Ralston was inspired by the city’s eclectic dining scene, choosing to open his small plates, Asian-inspired diner in Edinburgh’s New Town. Noto has a Michelin Bib Gourmand, which is awarded for “simple and skilful cooking”, and looking at the menu, it’s easy to see why. Think creative dishes like North Sea crab with warm butter and sourdough, aubergine tonkatsu with kimchi and pickled ginger, and Goosnargh duck, apple and tamarind. Make sure to leave enough room for pudding because the chocolate with miso and hazelnut provides the ideal conclusion.
Address: 47a Thistle Street, Edinburgh, EH2 1DY
Website: notoedinburgh.co.uk
Leftfield
Best for: seafood and small producer wines
Overlooking the wide-open greenery of the Bruntsfield Links, Leftfield is a relaxed and friendly neighbourhood bistro that specialises in fresh seafood and locally sourced ingredients. Try the natural Cumbrae oysters, Shetland mussels, or crispy squid with sriracha mayo, lime and coriander to start and then opt for something like the delicious red mullet served with steamed sesame rice, gochujang, aubergine and pickled ginger, or the chargrilled octopus with romesco and baby potatoes. The Leftfield hot seafood platter, which serves two, also comes highly recommended for a taste of all the best bits, and it can all be washed down with one of the many organic wines on the menu.
Address: 12 Barclay Terrace, Edinburgh, EH10 4HP
Website: leftfieldedinburgh.co.uk
Juliette LichmanHendersons
Best for: vegetarian and vegan dishes
The original Henderson on Hanover Street, which was the UK’s longest-running vegetarian restaurant, sadly closed in 2020 as a result of the pandemic, but Janet Henderson’s grandson Barrie thankfully revived the eatery a year later near Bruntsfield Links in Tollcross. The reimagined spot has a botanic-inspired interior with natural decor that gives it a stylish, contemporary twist on the old favourite. Signature dishes such as the popular chocolate mousse and classic vegan haggis are still on the menu, plus seasonal salads, mains such as curries, risotto and jackfruit cake and memorable desserts including tiramisu and lemon and blueberry cheesecake.
Address: 7-13 Barclay Place, Edinburgh EH10 4HW
Website: hendersonsrestaurant.com
Dylan-Starr AdamsHarajuku Kitchen
Best for: sushi and bowls
Even a short stroll around Edinburgh’s cobblestones teaches us that the Scottish capital is spoilt with modern Scots restaurants. Not so when it comes to other national cuisines. One fish out of water, though, is this Japanese restaurant, the brainchild of chef-owner Kaori Simpson, who leans heavily on her upbringing in the Fukuoka region. There are few other reference points for such authentic Japanese food in the city, so it’s easy to go all-out and sample a bit of everything, from mentsuyu (noodle soup with kelp dashi stock) to chirashi don (a speciality sushi rice bowl) to dinky takoyaki (octopus dough balls with katsu-mayo). If you can, bring a few pals. This is an education in chilli, garlic, umami, and smoky barbecue, all underwritten by tatami screens and balloon-shaped lampshades that whisk you off to Nagasaki, not nearby Newington.
Address: 10 Gillespie Place, Edinburgh EH10 4HS
Website: harajukukitchen.co.uk
The Bon Vivant
Best for: contemporary Scottish fare
On Edinburgh’s Thistle Street, in the centre of the New Town, this low-lit restaurant is the city’s ultimate evening hangout. Book a table if you can, otherwise sit at the wooden-clad bar and linger over an expertly blended cocktail before you eat – the citrus-infused Gin Fizz is always a treat. For supper, the restaurant serves Scottish food with a modern spin. There are small plates of haggis bon bons, polenta and parmesan doughnuts with whipped feta dip and tempura broccoli with harissa yoghurt, followed by mains of slow-roasted pork belly and Bavette steak with wild garlic and pumpkin seed dressing. The cheese and charcuterie board is also one of the best in town.
Address: 55 Thistle Street, Edinburgh EH2 1DY
Website: bonvivantedinburgh.co.uk
Best affordable restaurants in Edinburgh
Alby’s
Best for: big hot sandwiches
Though Alby’s sits on the edge of Leith, about a 40-minute walk or 20-minute drive from the city centre, it’s the kind of gem that should not be missed by anyone visiting Edinburgh for the first time. Natasha Ferguson and Matt Belcher’s charming and cosy sandwich haven serves huge focaccia sarnies that have ever-changing fillings, ranging from panko chicken katsu with coronation mayo, pickled red onion, coriander and shredded lettuce to vegan pulled oyster mushroom in chipotle, mango and kohlrabi salsa, coriander crema and pickled onion. If you fancy an accompaniment to your sandwich, they also serve other wee bites, including prawn toast, house fries, Padron peppers, smacked cucumber and watermelon salad. Alby's have also opened a second shop on Buccleuch Street.
Address: Alby’s 8 Portland Terrace, Edinburgh, EH6 6LA
Website: albysleith.co.ukTupiniquim
Best for: gluten-free sweet and savoury crêpes
At the top of Middle Meadow Walk sits a tiny, forest-green hut, with tables and chairs jumbled around and a makeshift-style sign fluttering in the Edinburgh wind, alerting passers-by that ‘BRASIL CREPES’ are sold here. Many would walk on by, but if you happen to pass between 12 and 6pm on weekdays, a queue snaking its way down the street hints at the quality of these South American pancakes. The crêpes are light and airy with crisp edges, made using a gluten-free batter from a blend of rice, tapioca starch, maize, buckwheat and potato flours, with eggs and milk (there’s also a dairy-free version available, made with almond milk). Toppings can be sweet or savoury – we love the Release The Chicken: grilled and shredded chicken breast topped with melted cheese, slices of avocado, sweetcorn and wilted spinach, and the Steak Pancake for slow-cooked pulled-beef brisket with sweet onions and melted mozzarella. Vegans should opt for the Pumpkin A La Papai for roasted butternut squash, sweet potatoes, tomatoes and crunchy pistachios. Line up to place your order and nab a table – the crêpes can get messy, so it’s wise to sit down for full enjoyment. The best part is, they’re all £7.80 or under.
Address: Green Police Box, Lauriston Place, Edinburgh EH3 9AU
Website: tupiniquim.co.uk
Ting Thai Caravan
Best for: Thai street food
Talk about earning your stripes. Co-owners Ting and Ae Tapparat first sparked up their street stall works more than a decade ago at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival and their story is one of both hot spice and unflagging hard work. Nowadays, they offer a crash course in Thai street eats from two locations – one overlooking Potterrow beside the University of Edinburgh and the other near the Usher Hall on Lothian Road; both draw locals and out-of-towners by the tuk-tuk load. The stars are marriages of meat and seafood with fire and spice, with dishes such as nua yam talay (rump steak with spicy lime, coriander, and chill glaze) or sea bass maeklong (pan-fried fish with lemongrass and cashew nut) as fiery as the restaurants are frenetic. Uncommon for Edinburgh, a no-reservations policy is in place, meaning you’ll often have to wait in line outside, but the turnover is high.
Address: 55-57 Lothian Road, Edinburgh EH1 2DJ
Website: tingthai-caravan.comThe Nile Valley Cafe
Best for: an extraordinary lunchWhile its unassuming exterior and ramshackle appearance might not inspire confidence from the outside, this Sudanese and Middle Eastern café directly behind the university buildings is renowned for having the best wraps in the city. Open since 1996, Nile Valley has stood the test of time and, more often than not, has the long, snaking queue around the block to prove it. Order wraps stuffed with your choice of filling, from perfectly crispy falafel sprinkled with feta, sun-dried tomatoes, spicy yogurt and salad to spiced chicken, avocado and baba ganoush.
Address: 6 Chapel Street, Newington, Edinburgh EH8 9AY