Eating & Drinking

Best restaurants in London: Our editors' favourites right now

From the classics to the latest game-changers, here are the best restaurants in London as reviewed by the Condé Nast Traveller editors
50 best restaurants london

Some of the best restaurants in London can be found outside of central London and in its thriving neighbourhoods – but if you're looking for delicious eateries for dinner, it can be hard to know where to begin. Below, discover the definitive list of the best restaurants in London: our editors' personal London restaurant recommendations that we keep going back to (in no particular order).

Some are relatively recent openings – hot-ticket, queue-worthy spots that instantly made waves, and earned a place on this list just months after firing up their hobs. Others are classics for a reason, and a couple of these London restaurants even made the 2022 iteration of The World's 50 Best Restaurants (read our reviews of winners Ikoyi and The Clove Club below). Whichever you pick, all of them are pioneers when it comes to what it means to eat well in London – from bombastic Indian flavours to kitchens pushing the boundaries of sustainability, and from blowout tasting menus to cheap eats you'll want to keep to yourself. All have been reviewed by our team to make this list of London's best restaurants. For even more, check out our favourite restaurants with gardens, pub beer gardens and London rooftop bars.

If you’re looking for the city’s latest foodie offerings, check out our definitive guide to the new restaurants in London, a list we update weekly.

How we choose the best restaurants in London

Every restaurant on this list has been selected independently by our editors and written by a Condé Nast Traveller journalist who knows the destination and has eaten at that restaurant. When choosing restaurants, our editors consider both high end and affordable eateries that offer an authentic and insider experience of a destination. We’re always looking for stand-out dishes, a great location and warm service – as well as serious sustainability credentials. We update this list regularly as new restaurants open and existing ones evolve.

The 74 best restaurants in London

  • The Clove Club Shoreditch
    Yuki Sugiura

    1. The Clove Club

    • Neighbourhood: Shoreditch
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: buttermilk fried chicken and pine salt

    Scotsman Isaac McHale opened this big-ticket restaurant in Shoreditch Town Hall back in 2013. Since then, it’s made regular appearances on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list (ranking at number 35 in the most recent awards in 2022). Cult snacks, brilliant cocktails, their own bread and charcuterie, and generous yet refined plates of heritage pork or lobster or trout make this a sensational destination with bags of charm. This ambitious 95-seater restaurant and bar is beloved of the cool crowd and the critics for good reason – and it’s not overhyped one bit. Tabitha Joyce

    Address: The Clove Club, Shoreditch Town Hall, 380 Old Street, London EC2
    Book online

  • 2. Chishuru

    • Neighbourhood: Fitzrovia
    • Price range: ££
    • Dish to order: cassava fritter, maitake mushroom and uda mayonnaise

    Adejoké ‘Joké’ Bakare’s sell-out supper club was one of many (such as Zoe’s Ghana Kitchen and Lola Oduba-Vine’s Club Naija) that nudged West African cooking into London’s lexicon of late. Joké’s Nigerian heritage is at the forefront of her home-style cooking, and it’s hugely exciting – if not long overdue – to see a business run by a Black woman flourishing in London's competitive restaurant scene. The menu changes frequently (snacks every week, larger plates depending on what ingredients look good) with a rotation of fiery, no-frills dishes such as bavette steak rubbed with yaji dressing (served with the requisite quarter-tomato as is custom, Rafal explains), and ekuru with pumpkin-seed pestou and Scotch bonnet sauce. There’s no elegant way to eat the grilled prawn ‘soup’ (a peppery seafood broth) or the latke-inspired cassava fritters, but that’s what the stack of napkins is for. The Dubonnet Negroni comes with a succinct history lesson, and is a touch more syrupy than its aperitif original, but it was the Naturally Fresh that we’d ask for again, even if it comes off the menu. In 2024, Chishuru won its first Michelin star. Anna Prendergast

    Address: Chishuru, 3 Great Titchfield Street, London W1W 8AX
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  • 3. The Devonshire

    • Neighbourhood: Soho
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Oban scallops

    We’ve seen a flurry of London boozers reopening recently that have kept all the atmosphere intact but woven in excellent restaurants, such as Ben Tish at The Barley Mow, Hauser & Wirth’s The Audley and, best of all, Henry Harris’s Racine 2.0 at Clerkenwell’s The Three Compasses. A pint and packet of crisps downstairs, three courses, and good wine upstairs. Now we have The Devonshire, just off Piccadilly Circus. It’s the passion project of Oisin Rogers, who has been steering London and Dublin pubs for three decades – most notably and most recently at The Guinea Grill – and Charlie Carroll, founder of Flat Iron steakhouses. They’ve assembled something of a crack team, with Ashley Palmer-Watts of Fat Duck and Dinner by Heston fame in the kitchen, front-of-house staff from St John’s and head butcher George Donnelly. But another star of the show is the centrepiece wood-burning grill and oven at the far end of the dining room. The closer to the grill you get, the more you may want to consider wearing shorts and a T-shirt – it’s intense, almost like being on the boilerplate of The Flying Scotsman as it chugs up to the Highlands. Talking of which, most of the meat on the menu is sourced from Scottish estates, though butchered and aged in the meat room downstairs. “I wanted to celebrate English food, British food,” Rogers tells me, passing our table. “Pies and fish and chips, all those wonderful local ingredients such as langoustines and scallops; to make a lamb hotpot using the best possible produce.” We order a few of those Oban scallops, served on the shell and doused in a chippie-style bacon-and-malt-vinegar sauce, best mopped up with the bread roll; and a rare brawn toast – despite the name, pretty as a French eclair. Mains were a beef fillet so tender and perfectly seared it could have easily stood alone, though duck-fat chips and buttered leeks helped it along; and a beef suet and Guinness pudding straight out of Dickens. We shared a soufflé and raised a glass of Sauternes to this new West End show. No wonder it’s been drawing in Michelin chefs and curious tourists alike since it opened in November 2023. Rick Jordan

    Address: The Devonshire, 17 Denman Street, London W1D 7HW
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  • 4. Rochelle Canteen

    • Neighbourhood: Shoreditch
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: grilled onglet

    One-time school bike shed has been around for a while. Owners Melanie Arnold and Margot Henderson have run this spot since 2004, and been business partners for more than 25 years. At Rochelle Canteen, they serve a daily changing menu – perhaps grilled onglet with cavolo nero or smoked with fish. It’s unfussy and honest cooking, served in a setting that feels more country house than East End. The wine list is a delight – order by the glass as you graze your way through the menu of sure-fire hits, whatever the season, and leave feeling smug that you even found this unassuming spot at all. Katharine Sohn

    Address: Rochelle Canteen, 16 Playground Gardens, Shoreditch, London E2 7FA
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  • 5. Chet's

    • Neighbourhood: Shepherd's Bush
    • Price range: £
    • Dish to order: Chet's smashburger

    The Hoxton's newest lovechild – a shiny, just-opened hotel in Shepherd's Bush of all places – got quite the coup when Kris Yenbamroong signed on to oversee the property's restaurant. Yenbamroong, of course, is the man behind LA's NIGHT + MARKET, a James Beard-nominated spot where Thai and American flavours jut up against one another. For his first British outpost, Chet's, Yenbamroong leans into the Thai-Americana formula that's served him well so far in Hollywood, Venice Beach and Vegas. Metal table booths are decked out with mirrors and pretty curtains for privacy, while tables in the centre of the dining room get the perk of nosing into the open kitchen. Plates are expectedly fiery, but there are plenty of surprises in store. The wedge salad is doused in garlicky nam jim, and beef tartare is smacked with Asian flavours such as creamy spicy fish sauce, shallots and lemongrass. Green curries and katsu-style noodles sit on the menu alongside burgers (with plenty of chillies, of course) and loaded fries. There's a decent wine list that will please all tastes (and budgets) and a short but considered range of cocktails that embrace Thai flavours as much as the food; we liked the Lychee Martini made with Grey Goose, Rinquinquin, manzanilla sherry, lychee, Chet’s Super Sour and wakamomo. Best of all, the prices match the achingly relaxed vibe of the place – no single dish is more than £20 and glasses of wine start from £5, which feels almost unbelievably reasonable in 2023 London. Just remember to order plenty of water for the table to tamper those punchy spices. Sarah James

    Address: Chet's, 65 Shepherd's Bush Green, London W12 8QE
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  • 6. Jikoni

    • Neighbourhood: Marylebone
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Crispy aubergine with Sichuan caramel

    Sunshiny chef Ravinder Bhogal cut her teeth at Michelin-starred Trishna before opening up her own place – a ‘no borders’ kitchen that draws on Indian, African and European cooking to curate its menu. ‘We call ourselves a no borders kitchen because we feel that food is such a powerful language – a language that everyone understands,’ Bhogal told us. Interiors play with pastels and pops of candy colour pattern, Order the Prawn toast Scotch egg with banana ketchup and pickled cucumbers, the cheery fish pie with golden saffron, the hand-dived scallops with congee – really, it’s all good. The short cocktail list leans into eastern spices, or, if you’re not drinking, order one of the cleverly curated selection of teas. This is a beautiful place to eat serving food that will make you smile. Sarah James

    Address: Jikoni, 19-21 Blandford Street, London W1U 3DH
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  • 7. Bibi

    • Neighbourhood: Mayfair
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Goat chapli kebab

    Behind an unassuming red-brick Georgian front, inside, the wood-panelled ceilings, chequerboard flooring, and a smooth, dark wooden countertop set BiBi apart from the traditional, slightly tedious Mayfair stalwarts. Melding the neighbourhood’s extravagant propensity with a dash of heady Indian design laced with charming family influences, BiBi’s nails the brief: a restaurant that slots naturally into its surroundings, yet abounds with personality and a contemporary feel. Chet Sharma’s career has taken him through some of Europe’s biggest restaurants – from Lancashire’s Moor Hall and Cumbria‘s L’Enclume to Mugaritz in Spain’s Basque Country – but at BiBi, his training and experience converge with passion and family influence. Order the cheese papads for a light, crunchy take on prawn crackers, and the oyster pachadi to start. The khatti meethi cod was also perfectly flakey with a tamarind sweet-and-sour style sauce, and the goat chapli kebab is another exciting dish to add to your list. Merging high-end food, glamorous interiors and a hard-to-impress postcode, with authentic familial influences and traditional Indian cuisine, BiBi was well worth the wait. Olivia Morelli

    Address: BiBi, 42 N Audley Street, London W1K 6ZP
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  • Xavier Girard Lachaine

    8. Lyle’s

    • Neighbourhood: Shoreditch
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: The menu changes regularly; right now, we like the duck liver and black fig toast

    Chef James Lowe has a CV that includes shifts at Noma in Copenhagen and London's seminal St John Bread and Wine. For this solo venture it's instantly clear that he's pulled inspiration from his previous stints. It occupies what was once a Lipton tea factory, opposite the Shoreditch BoxPark – the space is very white, and light, thanks to original warehouse windows. Lowe dishes up four cleverly matched courses every evening with a couple of treats thrown in. The menu varies but could include perfect asparagus, grilled and sprinkled with walnuts and Spenwood cheese; fresh sashimi from seafood caught that day, or game from Yorkshire. Start with a delicate pink Eric Pfifferling from the Rhône and move on to the dry white Folle Blanche from the Loire which goes particularly well with fish. A tasting-menu in a prime Shoreditch spot that's actually worth the hype. Tabitha Joyce

    Address: Lyle's, Tea Building, 56 Shoreditch High Street, London E1 6JJ
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  • Dafydd Ceri Davies

    9. Restaurant Story

    • Neighbourhood: Bermondsey
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: beef dripping candle

    Restaurant Story, a two-Michelin-star restaurant in London Bridge, is open again after a slick multi-million-pound makeover. The new and improved hotspot now has a second floor with a sophisticated private dining space, a cosy nook with a blazing fire and plush velvet seating, and a balcony with a top-notch view of The Shard. Tom Sellers, known for his ability to create playful fine-dining dishes that evoke a sense of nostalgia for diners, is in charge. There's a complex and creative 11-course tasting menu, but guests won't know exactly what they're being served until the dish is placed on the table (although we can confirm that a few firm favourites have kept pride of place on the menu – and yes, that includes the infamous beef-dripping candle). Rest assured, it'll be a delicious and memorable experience with theatrical, fun and fragile dishes that you'll roll into bed dreaming about that evening (and probably the next few evenings, too). Sophie Knight

    Address: 199 Tooley St, London SE1 2JX
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  • 10. Mambow

    • Neighbourhood: Clapton
    • Price range: ££
    • Dish to order: lor bak

    When we talk of young chefs making waves on London’s restaurant scene, Abby Lee’s name won’t be far from in-the-know foodie's lips. Levelling up from her tiny outpost in Peckham, Lee recently brought her exciting modern Malaysian concept to a sweet spot in Lower Clapton. The new space still only has 20 indoor covers, making securing a table here a little like a game of musical chairs. But boy is it worth it when you do get your foot in the door. We started things off with the 100+ Sour, an innovative take on the classic Pisco Sour featuring coconut liquor, miso syrup and blackberry. Next up, small plates that ranged from my favourite lor bak – a spicy crispy pork bite that I’ve been dreaming about since – to a nutty grilled banana blossom and prawn toast that was unlike any I’ve tasted before. We finished things off with pandang pancakes filled with a sweet toffee-like coconut filling and a coffee ice cream to cut through the sugar. Despite Mambow's size, Abby Lee and her modern Malaysian restaurant will be stamping a big footprint on the London dining scene. Watch this space. Lucy Bruton

    Address: 78 Lower Clapton Road, London, E5 0RN
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  • JODI HINDS

    11. Akoko

    • Neighbourhood: Fitzrovia
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: Jollof rice

    London is riding a slowly breaking wave of West African flavours right now. And all the while bubbling away in the background was Akoko. Its latest executive chef, Ayo Adeyemi, is only adding to that buzz. Their elevated yet rooted spin is immediately apparent when walking into the Berners Street space, where walls are covered in earthy terracotta clay, glassware on the wooden tables is a fine as a leaf and work by Niyi Olagunju, a Nigerian artist who creates pieces using the pods of ekpiri seeds, is a textural pop of black and gold. The five-course menu, developed over many months (Akoko is the Yoruba word for ‘time’), is a reimagining of the traditional dishes found in Nigeria, Senegal and Ghana in particular. The jollof rice has blue lobster tail and carrot terrine and the miyantaushe includes butternut squash, mackerel and honey. This is a spot that's deservedly at the vanguard of bringing a whole new experience of West African food to London. Gráinne McBride

    Adress: Akoko, 21 Berners Street, London W1T 3LP
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  • 12. Hide

    • Neighbourhood: Mayfair
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: Herdwick lamb cooked on the bone with smoked beetroot

    Londoners were eager to hear what Ollie Dabbous’ next move would be when his booked-solid restaurant Dabbous closed in 2017 with the promise of better things. Better things arrived in 2018 in the form of HIDE – a three-storey, industrial-chic behemoth. On street level is GROUND, where the team serves British-sourced dishes, and an in-house bakery that supplies the goods for breakfast (it's one of the best brunches in London). Downstairs, in BELOW, is a dark cocktail bar and hidden wine cellar. But if you’re a true Dabbous fan and can handle a nine-course tasting menu, then head up the sweeping staircase to ABOVE. The steamed ikejime turbot is cooked to glistening perfection, served in a sauce made from bones; tail-to-gill cooking at its best. Other highlights included the roasted king crab with camomile honey, slow-roasted goose with birch sap and barbecued Herdwick lamb. As HIDE shouts about having the largest wine list in London, you can expect to be well looked after by one of its 15 sommeliers. This is cooking that focusses on big-hitting flavours – whether you’re after an easy supper or something smarter. Sarah James

    Address: Hide, 85 Piccadilly, London, W1J 7NB
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  • 13. Bao

    • Neighbourhood: Soho
    • Price range: ££
    • Dish to order: The fried Horlicks ice-cream bun

    It’s been years since London’s favourite Taiwanese bun house launched in Soho, and queues still snake outside the tiny space on Lexington Street. After that smash-hit opening, BAO outposts followed in Borough, Fitzrovia and King’s Cross. The fluffy buns are a crowd favourite for a reason. First-timers should order the classic, with juicy pork and peanuts packed inside a fluffy pocket, or the indulgent fried chicken. If you have room for pudding, the fried Horlicks ice-cream bun is another go-to; the fried bun tastes a little like brioche while the ice cream is made from the creamy malted drink. A classic Negroni is made with sake, while an Old Fashioned makes use of Japanese favourite milk tea. This diminutive Soho spot is still our favourite in the Bao family – and well worth the queue. Sophie Knight

    Address: Bao, 53 Lexington Street, Carnaby, London W1F 9AS
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  • Milo Brown

    14. Maru

    • Neighbourhood: Mayfair
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: Resist looking ahead and prepare to be surprised

    You could walk past Maru several times and not realise it’s there, set as it is behind low-key frontage on the little Dickensian passageway in Shepherd Market that leads to Ye Grapes pub. The space has been reborn as Taiji’s personal project, an omakase joint serving up to 10 guests – omakase being a surprise meal in which the chef chooses each piece for you. Sitting at the counter, the world outside, while sushi-grade tuna is sliced a few inches away, feels like just the kind of experience we want right now. We think each and every of the 20 courses should be a surprise – just go along, take an open mind (there’s nothing particularly challenging though) and an empty stomach. There are three drinks pairings to choose from, each gracefully poured and explained by the sommelier. Close-up magic of the foodie kind – if there’s a four-letter word for fall-off-your-seat-brilliant Japanese flavours, Maru is it. Rick Jordan

    Address: Maru, 18 Shepherd Market, London W1J 7QH
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  • Carol Sachs

    15. The Barbary

    • Neighbourhood: Covent Garden
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Smoked labneh octopus

    The owners of The Barbary (two former nightclub owners and two Israeli chefs) have created something rare – a set of London restaurants (The Palomar, The Barbary, The Barbary Next door) where a table is as coveted now as it was on opening night. While you wait for a seat at this Covent Garden outpost, order some flaky pastry cigars stuffed with fish and a round of pita pouches of lamb as comforting as mittens in winter. It's difficult to separate stand-out dishes but the charred octopus tentacle and neck of pata negra pork are both contenders. A talking point round the bar, the pistachio-filled 'hashcake' comes with the satisfyingly smoky aftertaste of a joint. East London Liquor Company gin and tonics are served with a slice of grapefruit and the Zweigelt goes with pretty much everything on the menu. This is still one of our favourite spots in London. Hazel Lubbock

    Address: The Barbary, 16 Neal's Yard, Covent Garden, London WC2
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  • 16. Evelyn's Table

    • Neighbourhood: Soho
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: Crunchy shiso tempura

    You may walk by the blue exterior of The Blue Posts, set alongside Middle Eastern hit The Palomar and smart Taiwanese Xu’s Teahouse. But inside this wood-panelled space lie three storeys worth stopping for. Start with a drink at The Blue Posts pub before heading down a pine-green staircase to Evelyn’s Table. Helmed by Luke Selby, formerly head chef at Hide, and his two younger brothers, Nat and Theo (also ex-Hide), the 10-seater restaurant combines British produce with Japanese techniques and classic French methods. Here, diners sit at the marble-topped chef’s table to be presented with five courses that might include freshly caught Cornish mackerel, cured and served in a bowl with sweet sake or crunchy shiso tempura in the shape of tacos that cradle wild mussels. Dishes can be paired with an exemplary wine list for an extra £60 per person. The drinks are as innovative as the food, and there’s also an intriguing selection of beer, cocktails and sake. This close-knit team works flawlessly together, with tangible passion and a real family atmosphere, to ensure an evening of delightful food and drink. Olivia Morelli

    Address: Evelyn's Table, The Blue Posts, Cellar, 28 Rupert St, London W1D 6DJ
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  • 17. Donia

    • Neighbourhood: Soho
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: lamb shoulder Caldereta pie

    Florence Mae Maglanoc and Omar Shah are on a mission to put Filipino cuisine on the map. Their Maginhawa Group (behind some of London’s popular Filipino and Southeast Asian restaurants, including Mamasons Dirty Ice Cream) has grown exponentially in just six years. If world domination is their plan then we won’t stand in their way, especially when their latest venture, Donia, is serving some of the best food in London right now. Reassuringly frequented by Filipino diners, this Kingly Court eatery combines Filipino street food concepts with British cooking techniques. The small-plate starters include crunchy croquetas stuffed with pickled mushrooms that are so delicious they had us chomping in silence. Chicken offal skewers (a Filipino street food staple), come with a sweet barbecue glaze and cucumber vinegar dip. Finally, the choux filled with Ube praliné, coconut chantilly and Ube cream seals Maginhawa Group’s reputation for tasty and innovative desserts. A repeat visit feels already overdue. Noo Saro-Wiwa

    Address: 2.14 (Top Floor) Kingly Court, Carnaby Street, London, W1B 5PW
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  • 18. Sessions Arts Club, Farringdon

    • Neighbourhood: Farringdon
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: The menu changes seasonally, so take your server's lead

    A £15 million renovation of the Old Sessions House – a discreet, gorgeous 18th-century Grade II listed landmark – is partly to thank for Clerkenwell’s recently elevated foodie reputation. We ascended four floors to what used to be a vast judges' dining room, where a mezzanine of leather banquettes and a Gabriele Beveridge sculpture suspended mid-air bears witness to the buzz below. Polpetto alumni Florence Knight is running the kitchen – and the dishes are masterful. Chef Knight has always preferred to work with just a few ingredients. A simple platter of coppa di parma with pickled fennel got a disproportionate amount of airtime at our table, and the meat-eater in our group declared the purple sprouting broccoli with a creamy cannellini dip his favourite. It might be the sort of place where you’re earnestly recommended a £300 bottle, but sommelier Sophie Liverman will be just as excited to serve you a £42 bottle of biodynamic Verdicchio. In a courthouse that once had a reputation for issuing harsh sentences, the verdict for this place is unanimously positive. Anna Prendergast

    Address: Sessions Arts Club, ​​Old Sessions House, 24 Clerkenwell Green, London EC1R 0NA
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  • 19. Roti King

    • Neighbourhood: Euston
    • Price range: £
    • Dish to order: Chicken roti canai

    The original Roti King is in a basement joint in Euston, a part of town most of us try to avoid at supper time unless we’re forced into catching a post-work train. But most Londoners in the know will make an exception for the buttery roti this spot is famous for – perfect for scooping up mouthfuls of curry (lamb, fish, chicken) or daal. The dining room is nothing fancy, but the omnipresent queue outside says it all – this is some of the most delicious, authentic Malaysian food in the city. Order a traditional lemon iced tea, and a roti with mutton khari, and you’ll only be set back just over a tenner. Brilliant value, and utterly deserving of a spot on our edit. Sarah James

    Address: Roti King, 40 Doric Way, London NW1 1LH
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  • 20. Josephine

    • Neighbourhood: Chelsea
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: saucisson brioche

    Bosi (of Michelin-starred Bibendum and, more recently, Brooklands at the new Peninsula London) has taken inspiration from his hometown Lyon at Josephine. Here, Bosi is stripping things back and drawing on a rich culinary tradition. I expected these dishes to be given the Michelin treatment – portion sizes reduced, plates prettied up, a foam here or a jús there. But the menu stays joyously true to Bosi's heritage, and the team staunchly avoids refining dishes beyond anything a Lyonnaise grandmother would recognise (Josephine is also named after Bosi's own grand-mère). That means house wine is served by the pot, a 460ml serving in a heavy-bottomed glass bottle, and charged to your bill based on how much you drink, whether that's one glass or three bottles. The £15.50 plat du jour is available Monday to Friday and changes daily; it might be steak haché one day and boeuf bourguignon the next. But when I go back, I'm reordering the saucisson brioche: a soft slice of bread filled with smoky Morteau sausage that transported me straight from Chelsea to the Rhône valley. This is the kind of restaurant you want to lose an afternoon in. Sarah James

    Address: Josephine, 315 Fulham Road, SW10 9QH, London
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  • CHARLIE MCKAY

    21. Peckham Cellars

    • Neighbourhood: Peckham
    • Price range: ££
    • Dish to order: Burrata

    Name a better foodie spot in London than Peckham, and I’ll show you to its many unique eateries. But this might be our favourite – footsteps from Queen’s Road Peckham station, the wine bar, shop and restaurant has been open since 2020 and won a Michelin Bib Gourmand in the 2021 awards. The menu comes from head chef Pablo Urain Alfonso and is a regularly changing delight of seasonal small plates. Great ingredients sing – the winter tomatoes in olive oil and salt and burrata served with pickled pear and walnut were highlights when we visited, and the ice cream sando deserves an honourable mention. When it comes to booze, the clue is in the name; wine is seriously good here. More than 150 bottles are available, and Ben McVeigh, former head sommelier at 28-50 Fetter Lane, knows everything about the stock. If you can tear yourself away from the wine menu, the chilli margarita is highly recommended. This is a local hangout that’s the perfect place to spend a Friday winding down. Abigail Malbon

    Address: Peckham Cellars, 125 Queen's Road, London SE15 2ND
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  • 22. Casa Fofo

    • Neighbourhood: Dalston
    • Price range: ££
    • Dish to order: It's a tasting menu – right now, we like the tomato, kimchi and tofu

    This is a small but smart spot on an unassuming residential street a short stroll from colourful Ridley Road Market. There’s an open kitchen so you can watch the chefs at work, and different members of the team take turns to bring dishes to the table, allowing you to meet them all. The interiors are dominated by clean white walls, but exposed-brick features and wooden tables add warmth. There’s one option if you want a full meal – the six-course set tasting menu. It changes regularly to suit what’s in season but is grounded in modern, inventive cooking. There are precisely 10 options on the wine list, each one carefully selected, all natural and low intervention. It’s worth taking the team’s suggestions by the glass to match the food. The spot achieved one Michelin-star a couple of years ago, and has continued to go from strength to strength – worth travelling to if you don’t live nearby and visiting repeatedly if you do. Oliva Holborrow

    Address: Casa Fofó, 158 Sandringham Road, London E8 2HS
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  • 23. Native at Browns

    • Neighbourhood: Mayfair
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Orkney island scallop, green chilli, peach and buttermilk

    Foraging can be an over-hyped word. For Imogen Davis and Ivan Tisdall-Downes, however, it forms part of an inventive approach to cooking that’s based on zero waste. Their story has taken them from Covent Garden to Borough Market, then to an outpost on Osea Island in Essex. Now the pair have opened a restaurant in the unlikely surroundings of the Browns fashion store in a Mayfair townhouse. What is now on the menu as the Native Fish Fillet (they called it Filet-O-Fish but McDonald’s had a word) is a plump brioche holding breadcrumbed cod cheeks, draped with ‘cheese’ – actually brown-crab rarebit – on a splodge of seaweed tartar. If they served just this, I’d be happy. Native’s classic Marrowmel makes a reappearance – white chocolate and bone-marrow caramel to scrape with your spoon and wonder how something so meaty can be quite so puddingy. The drinks list showcases beers from Earth Ale – a North London microbrewery that incorporates foraged dandelion root and hogweed – and uses a wonky-fruit apple brandy from Essex. This is rooted food with a real sense of adventure despite the genteel surroundings. Rick Jordan

    Address: Native at Browns, 39 Brook Street, London W1K 4JE
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  • John Carey

    24. Hoppers

    • Neighbourhood: Soho
    • Price range: ££
    • Dish to order: A hopper, of course

    Despite this Sri Lankan specialist having been around since 2015, walking into a branch of Hoppers still feels a little like you’re discovering a buzzy new hotspot. Perhaps it’s because there are still relatively few Sri Lankan restaurants in London, unless you’re prepared to journey quite a way out – which is fairly mysterious considering how delicious the food can be. The namesake hoppers (thin, crispy, bowl-shaped pancakes made with rice flour) are the must-order – topped with an egg, perhaps, or chilli cheese, although the creamy dhal was a delight, as was the fiery sambar. A couple of tasting menus (vegetarian and decidedly meaty) are a brilliant option for first-time visitors, and reasonably priced at £40 per person. Wash everything down with one (or a few) of the team’s collaboration beers with Camden Town Brewery – a citrusy, fresh lager that’ll transport you straight to Sri Lanka’s tropical shores. Rick Jordan

    Address: Hoppers, 49 Frith Street, London W1D 4SG
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  • Brian Dandridge

    25. Fallow St James

    • Neighbourhood: Mayfair
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: Cod’s head with sriracha butter

    The ceiling drips in dried kelp. A central open kitchen fizzes with activity where tattooed arms slam trays into ovens one second then daintily arrange the garnish on juicy oysters. Jack Croft and Will Murray met while they were cooking at Michelin-starred Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, but it didn’t take long for them to peel off so they could riff in their nose-to-tail way. James Robson completes the triumvirate behind the sustainability-celebrating restaurant. Interiors are a winner at repurposing existing fixtures to throw out a fresh look, but I’m too excited to not go straight into urging you to try the headline main course: cod’s head, with sriracha butter. Book one of the seven seats at the chef’s counter – relax and ease yourself into the sommelier’s every ebullient recommendation. The folks of Fallow are in cahoots with Renegade Urban Winery in Bethnal Green. If you’re smart, you’ll end with a cocktail – Fallow Martini No. 3 hits the right note with Sapling vodka, vermouth, rapeseed oil and buckwheat. When it comes to robust flavours with best-quality ingredients, Fallow is no slouch. Juliet Kinsman

    Address: Fallow 2 St James’s Market, London SW1Y 4RP
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  • 26. HUMO

    • Neighbourhood: Mayfair
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Eight-day aged yellowtail, citrus sauce and Castillo coffee

    Amid the throng of new restaurants around London, all touting exciting concepts and innovative angles, few can successfully cut through the noise. Mayfair’s latest arrival, however, has done so triumphantly. Everything is cooked over a wood fire the kitchen runs without gas or electricity. The menu is split into four sections, each relating to food cooked differently: ignite, smoke, flame and embers. The wine list also offers a refreshing take, listing bottles by geographical location rather than country – sections include island, coastal and high altitude. There’s a reason this restaurant went viral on social media when it launched in March 2023. In 2024, Humo won its first Michelin star. Olivia Morelli

    Address: 12 St George Street, London W1S 2FB
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  • Patricia Niven

    27. Jolene

    • Neighbourhood: Stoke Newington
    • Price range: ££
    • Dish to order: The menu changes daily – check Instagram for the latest

    First came Primeur, which set up shop in a former motor garage in Canonbury. Then came Westerns Laundry, in an obscure corner of Highbury, which did the same thing, albeit in a former launderette and with more fish. Co-founders Jeremie Comotto-Lingenheim and chef David Gingell then opened an all-day bakery-restaurant on Newington Green. Despite the name there’s no rhinestone here but bare walls etched with tiny bits of graffiti, more pencil-case than Banksy. The idea behind the bakery was to encourage the use of chemical-free grains – working with an ethically minded farmer in France – which are milled daily to make a beautifully rounded harvest line-up of raisin bread, sausage rolls, financiers and cinnamon buns. Two highlights: the gnudi with pumpkin and sage – gnocchi-like balls so good they’ll have you talking about them in your sleep; and the lamb shoulder with tomatoes and olives, wallowingly rich with perfectly crunchy-soft roast potatoes for dipping. A place that takes its food seriously but has fun with it – and with its twinkly candle lights at night this is a lovely place to graze on autumnal flavours. Rick Jordan

    Address: Jolene, 21 Newington Green, London N16 9PU
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  • 28. Imad's Syrian Kitchen

    • Neighbourhood: Soho
    • Price range: £
    • Dish to order: Fattet macdous – minced lamb and aubergines on flatbread

    Syrian restaurateur Imad Alarnab fled his homeland in 2015 following the bombing of his three restaurants. Making his way through Europe, Imad shared his skills, cooking for other refugees and after finding refuge in the UK, it wasn’t long before he held his first supper club. It was an instant hit, and so spawned various pop-up kitchens across London. Now, at this first permanent Syrian Kitchen – £50,000 was crowdsourced to fund its opening – Alarnab has taken over Asma Khan’s spot at the top of Kingly Court. Order the falafel, obviously. The unique loops make for a great crispy surface-area-to-volume ratio. One standout is the halloumi noodles – cheese strings if you will – served on a rocket and watermelon salad. If you order one meat dish, make it the fattet macdous – a pile-up of minced lamb and aubergines on crispy flatbread triangles. A Mediterranean wine list and an interesting edit of beers – from Hoxton Hill Fin Lager to an alcohol-free pale ale from Pine Trail – does everything it should. You might go to support Alarnab, but you’ll keep going back for the (very reasonably priced) sensational small plates. Tabitha Joyce

    Address: Imad’s Syrian Kitchen, Top Floor, Kingly Court, Carnaby Street, London W1B 5PW
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  • Adam Scott

    29. Chuku's

    • Neighbourhood: Tottenham
    • Price range: £
    • Dish to order: Sinasir and miyan taushe

    Nigerians in London have enjoyed their country’s varied cooking for decades, staying faithful to its roots and generally steering clear of the global fusion game. However, Emeka and Ifeyinwa Frederick have changed that by opening the world’s first Nigerian tapas joint. The sibling duo made a name for themselves with a popular pop-up, stirring up tastes of Lagos at venues across London. Then in February 2020, following a crowdfunding campaign, they opened Chuku’s, a Tottenham restaurant serving Nigerian dishes with a contemporary twist. Chuku’s repackages traditional Nigerian fare as vegetarian friendly – quite a conceptual coup considering how meat-obsessed Nigeria can be (waiters in the motherland have pressed me many a time for my ‘protein’ option). One meatless option is the pounded yam balls in egusi (ground melon seed) and spinach soup, presented in a playful tricolour of green, red and yellow. My favourite was the sinasir and miyan taushe – rice pancakes for dunking in a pumpkin and peanut sauce. But incorrigible carnivores can take comfort in the chicken wings coated in caramel infused with kuli kuli (spicy peanut) – a nod to dishes from northern Nigeria. Africa meets Europe in a delicious and innovative new take on Nigerian cuisine. Noo Saro-Wiwa

    Price range: £

    Address: Chuku's, 274 High Road, London N15 4AJ
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  • 30. Brawn

    • Neighbourhood: Columbia Road
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Pappardelle with rabbit ragu

    London does neighbourhood restaurants really well. East London does neighbourhood restaurants exceptionally well. And this Columbia Road spot – on the far end of the flower market – is still one of our favourites. It opened in 2010 as a wine bar, before adding a kitchen a few years later. It’s got a heavy focus on natural wines and seasonal small plates – so far, so Hackney. But the quality here is so good the team has received a nod from the Michelin Guide with a Bib Gourmand. Starters of crumbly rabbit and pistachio terrine or grilled mackerel with blood orange give way to steaming plates of pappardelle with duck ragu or braised ox cheek. This is hearty, feel-good cooking that you actually want to eat, in one of East London’s most charming settings. Sarah James

    Address: Brawn, 49 Columbia Road, London E2 7RG 
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  • 31. Manteca, Shoreditch

    • Neighbourhood: Shoreditch
    • Price range: ££
    • Dish to order: Brown crab cacio e pepe

    When fresh-pasta spot 10 Heddon Street closed after spending a few months at the top of everyone’s social-media feeds in summer 2019, the central London restaurant scene felt the loss. The collaboration between Smokestak’s David Carter and Chris Leach, previously of Kitty Fisher’s and Petersham Nurseries, quickly made most of the city’s best-restaurants lists. A follow-up opened near Oxford Circus a little while later, and in 2021 they opened in a permanent home in Shoreditch. The team here aims to offer nose-to-tail cooking. The main event is the pasta: order as many dishes as you think you can finish between your party. Silky pappardelle is served with rich ox-cheek ragu while tonnarelli is tossed in simple cacio e pepe sauce, elevated with the addition of brown crab. Embrace the Italian way of life and go for a full-on aperitivo – most cocktails are made with amaro, an Italian bitter. The pop-up is back for good, and every hungry soul in London is better off for it. Sarah James

    Address: Manteca, 58-59 Great Marlborough Street, London W1F 7JY
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    Read our full review of Manteca

  • Sophie Knight

    32. Carlotta

    • Neighbourhood: Marylebone
    • Price range: ££
    • Dish to order: Whole de-shelled lobster

    Behind bright-red exteriors and giant gold lettering of the latest Big Mamma opening (Gloria, Circolo Popolare, Jacuzzi), enter Carlotta to delve back into 20th-century Italy. Inspired by New York drinking dens, Italian family-run restaurants and Milanese casinos, the entire space is a personal homage to Italian culture in America – think gilded bars, marble countertops, velvet curtains and red leather banquettes. Furnishings and decorations were pulled together from Italian marketplaces and second-hand stores across Europe, from ancient stone busts to Sicilian crockery and mismatched diner-style chairs. Downstairs, the vibe takes a more sultry turn, with a moody suede lounge, open kitchen and low lighting. Try the fettuccine alfredo, served tableside with shavings of truffle, or opt for the whole de-shelled lobster, drizzled with a beurre blanc sauce and topped with 20g of black Venetian caviar. This is our favourite Big Mamma restaurant of the bunch – read our full review of this new Italian restaurant that could be the most fun opening of 2023. Olivia Morelli

    Address: 77, 78 Marylebone High St, London W1U 5JX
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  • 33. The Waterhouse Project

    • Neighbourhood: Bethnal Green
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: The set menu changes every month

    What started out as a supper club in chef Gabriel Waterhouse's one-bedroom flat six years ago is now a permanent restaurant. Waterhouse honed his skills at Michelin-star Galvin La Chapelle, but at his own self-funded place he offers a fine-dining-meets-dinner-party experience. So dishes are plated up at a giant kitchen island, and coffee is poured from shared cafetieres. Unlike at other similar set-ups such as Mãos in Shoreditch, there are also individual tables so you can be as sociable, or not, as you like. The nine-course set menu changes every month so that every ingredient is at its seasonal best. On our visit we tried pork-belly doughnuts with a sugary dusting, bright-green parcels of squid ink and mackerel, crab croquettes with garlic aioli... Each plate was licked so clean that it was a challenge to finish the miso chocolate cookie. The all-in price includes six glasses of wine plus an aperitif on arrival – in keeping with the ethos, the bottles are from small, low-intervention producers (a Cabernet Franc from Beatrice et Pascal Lambert in the Loire was the standout). All in, this is a very unassuming yet brilliantly executed dining experience.  Grainne McBride

    Address: The Waterhouse Project, 1 Corbridge Crescent, East London, E2 9DT
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  • 34. Trullo

    • Neighbourhood: Islington
    • Price range: ££
    • Dish to order: Order a handful of pasta dishes and share them all

    It’s hard to get a table at Islington’s favourite neighbourhood restaurant. The set-up is based on a simple Italian trattoria, with net curtains that track halfway up the window, black-painted wooden chairs and white-paper tablecloths that crinkle (and quickly get doused in drips of the best olive oil). On the menu there might creamy ‘nduja on toast, burrata served with peach and basil or breakfast radishes with aioli. Everything is fresh and seasonal, and completely delicious. Go big on the pasta, which is all made in house: thick noodles of pici oozing with cacio e pepe and skinny tagliarini with crab, courgette and a chilli kick. And while there are main courses from the grill (black Hampshire pork chops with capers and rosemary borlotti beans; whole Brixham mackerel with Castelluccio lentils and salsa rossa) it’s the beef-shin ragu with pappardelle that keeps the locals coming back, and back again. Tabitha Joyce

    Address: Trullo, 300-302 St Paul's Rd, Highbury East, London N1 2LH
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  • 35. Kitty Fisher's

    • Neighbourhood: Mayfair
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: Potted chicken liver parfait, pickled prunes and toast

    When Kitty Fisher’s opened in 2014, originally with Tomos Parry in the kitchen (he has since launched the fantastic Brat in Shoreditch), it was a sure-fire hit, and one of the hardest tables in the city to book. So we snuck back in to see how they were getting on with chef Karl Goward. The restaurant’s namesake is an 18th-century courtesan known for her self-indulgence, once rumoured to have eaten a 1,000-guinea banknote on a slice of bread and butter. But the extravagance at Kitty Fisher’s isn’t immediate – enter the cosy, dim-lit space on a damp corner of the Mayfair market behind Green Park to find cute wooden tables with simple wildflowers in jars and a couple of bar stools in the window. The real extravagance arrives (by the bucketload) on the plate. Thankfully, starters and mains aren’t made to share – order grilled lamb rump with garlic toast or comforting minced beef and onion pie. Let’s be honest, you’ll probably want to pilfer from your companion’s plate, too. Tabitha Joyce

    Address: Kitty Fisher’s, 10 Shepherd Market, Mayfair, London W1J 7QF
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  • 36. Brat

    • Neighbourhood: Shoreditch
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: The turbot

    Walking up the stairs, past rows of wine bottles, to be greeted by the soft, camp-fire wumpf of wood smoke, bright chatter across long tables… you’d be forgiven for wondering why you’d never stumbled across this place before. Tomos Parry is famously the chef behind Kitty Fisher’s, the celebrity hangout in Mayfair. While Fisher’s can seem too much like a private member’s club at times, the wood-panelled Brat is more open, with all the atmosphere of an upstairs Spanish asador at 11pm. Brat is named not after tantrums but after an old English name for turbot, which here weighs in around £55, can feed three and is incredible – it ain’t no oil painting but is golden and tender and worth jettisoning the fork for your fingers. Noble Rot’s Dan Keeling gave a helping hand with the wine list here, with a changing monthly focus on small producers. As you’d expect, there are crisp, sappy Vinho Verdes and Albarinos, but also much to be loved from elsewhere in Europe. But you’d be advised to order a bottle of sherry – the fino en rama, perhaps – which goes well with everything on the menu. Rick Jordan

    Address: Brat, 4 Redchurch St, London E1 6JL
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  • Charlie McKay

    37. Kol

    • Neighbourhood: Marylebone
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: Confit pork cheek carnitas

    This place was a long time coming. We first heard rumours that Santiago Lastra, the dashing chef who was handpicked by René Redzepi to lead the sell-out Noma pop-up in Tulum, was coming to London in 2018. Since then Lastra spent time foraging for the best ingredients, from the woodlands of Kent to the Scottish coastline. His moody, terracotta-toned bistro has finally launched in 2020. Things are split into a couple of tasting menus, but it doesn’t feel stiff and lots of the courses are designed to be pieced together at the table. Tender langoustine is paired with an intriguing smoked chilli and sea buckthorn which guests pile into corn tacos themselves, and seared lamb is chopped and served with a subtle guajillo mayonnaise. Mains are made for sharing – short rib with a quince mole and roasted carrots or bone-marrow-roasted octopus with a seaweed salsa macha. The house wine has been created specifically for KOL by Slovakian winemakers Slobodné Vinárstvo. As with any good Mexican, there’s a carefully curated list of mezcal which also feature at the end of the wine flight. Lastra’s dedication to the best of British ingredients makes for an inspiring tour of Mexico. Tabitha Joyce

    Address: KOL, 9 Seymour Street, Marylebone, London W1H
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  • 38. La Dame de Pic London

    • Neighbourhood: Trinity Square
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: Limousin veal sweetbread

    It's been more than 25 years since Anne-Sophie Pic took over her father's restaurant Maison Pic, in France, after it lost its third Michelin star following his death; more than 15 years since Pic became the fourth female chef in history to lead her kitchen back to three Michelin stars, the most coveted distinction in the guide. Now, she's the most decorated female chef in the world, with restaurants in Singapore, Switzerland and, of course, London.

    Pic's only British outpost sits in the Four Seasons Hotel. This, too, has been tipped by the Michelin guide – the restaurant won its first star less than a year after opening in 2019, and a second in 2020, which it has retained since. A slick team of chefs and servers parade picture-pretty dishes – there's three tasting menus to choose from, all changing seasonally but all including British ingredients (Cornish seabream or Scottish lobster, maybe) cooked in classically French ways (cooked meunière, perhaps, or infused with cherry leaves and blossoms).

    Address: Four Seasons Hotel at 10 Trinity Square, London EC3N 4AJ
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  • Katharine Sohn

    39. Café Cecilia

    • Neighbourhood: Hackney
    • Price range: ££
    • Dish to order: Onglet, chips and peppercorn sauce

    ​​This is the first bricks-and-mortar restaurant from Max Rocha – a canalside spot in Hackney. The son of fashion designer John Rocha has a résumé that includes some of the city’s best joints – the River Café and St John Bread and Wine among them. Café Cecilia is a simple affair: pristine white walls, a scribbled blackboard menu and an open kitchen. The aim of the game is to share – kick off with a jammy terrine so smooth it almost melts onto the crispy toast. The airy pizzetta topped with gooey Taleggio and the crisp fennel salad with green-goddess dressing are must-orders too. Stick to two or three mains – the handmade pasta with rabbit ragù is perfectly al dente, while the stuffed tomato comes with a side of British graceburn, a creamier version of feta. Cleanse the palate with a refreshing white port and tonic before opting for something funky from the short wine list – we’d order a Chardonnay from the Languedo or a zingy Vinho Verde from Portugal’s Minho region. It’s easy to see why Max Rocha is quickly becoming known as one of the top chefs in the city. Katharine Sohn

    Address: Café Cecilia, 32 Andrews Road, London E8 4RL
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  • Chris Terry

    40. Sabor

    • Neighbourhood: Mayfair
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Segovian suckling pig

    There's a whole lotta love on the restaurant scene for Nieves Barragán, the tousle-haired chef from Bilbao who made Soho's Barrafina such a sensation. A few years ago, she opened her own restaurant in little Heddon Street. Sabor takes its DNA straight from the home country, adding Andalucian tiles to original wooden flooring: on the ground-floor level is the open kitchen, long restaurant counter and standalone bar, with a sweeping, iron-railed staircase leading to the asador upstairs, which has long communal tables and Hades-like grill. Nieves has gathered recipes from all around Spain, Castile to Galicia, and downstairs plates include popcorn-like baby squid and prawns with fried quail egg, rabbit dumplings, meltingly soft Iberican ham, and a just-set tortilla of Jerusalem artichoke and jamon. Upstairs in the asador is Nieves' pride-and-joy grill and larger plates for expansive evenings or Sunday lunch. José Pizarro reckons you can now eat better Spanish food in London than in Spain – and here's a place that really proves he's right. Rick Jordan

    Address: Sabor, 35 Heddon Street, London W1B 4BR
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  • 41. Cinnamon Bazaar

    • Neighbourhood: Covent Garden
    • Price range: ££
    • Dish to order: Lamb Roganjosh shepherd’s pie

    Cinnamon Bazaar – the little sister of Cinnamon Club, Vivek Singh’s stylish restaurant that championed Indian fine dining – ignores the straitlaced, gentlemen's club ambience of Singh’s first venture for something altogether more eclectic. The menu saunters through South Asia following ancient trade routes that stretch from the Middle East and Afghanistan down to India's central heartland. Start with the Kolkata crab bonda, cloud-light croquettes stuffed with flaky crabmeat and beetroot, before crossing the subcontinent for Iranian chicken haleem on masala sourdough toast. The fragrant shrimp fried rice is garnished with bok choy, slow-cooked pork belly zings with coriander and fenugreek, and the tender vindaloo of ox cheek recalls the days of the Raj with its decadently rich, meaty flavour. Skip the wine list in favour of the quirky, jewel-coloured cocktails designed by Ryan Chetiyawardana. Traditionalists should stick to the Bazaar Old Fashioned - a combination of smoky scotch, coconut sugar and burnt cinnamon so smooth you could almost justify a liquid lunch. Radhika Seth

    Address: Cinnamon Bazaar, 28 Maiden Lane, Covent Garden, London WC2
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  • 42. Som Saa

    • Neighbourhood: Spitalfields
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Nahm dtok pla thort (deep-fried seabass)

    Som Saa started life as a pop-up in the arches of a coffee shop in Hackney - although you'd never guess this wasn't an import from the streets of Bangkok. Now Som Saa has a permanent place in an old fabric warehouse near Petticoat Lane Market; it's still pretty industrial inside, with whitewashed brick walls, bare bulbs and steel girders. Thai food is about balance - spicy, sweet, sour and salty. Soups are protein-rich and simple, and salads punchy with fermented pork and dried shrimp. The jungle curry with fish and baby aubergines is knock-out in every sense. The Muay Thai Kik is a cooling gin cocktail with a jolt of kaffir lime leaf, Thai basil and a showering of seeds. They've worked hard on the wine list, too, finding bottles which pair with the food almost as well as the 'live' unpasteurised, unfiltered Camden Tank Beer, stored in the restaurant's rafters. Hazel Lubbock

    Address: Som Saa, 43 Commercial Street, Spitalfields, London E1
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  • 43. Sachi

    • Neighbourhood: Belgravia
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: Crispy fried monkfish

    On the lower-ground floor of Pantechnicon, a Nordic-meets-Japanese emporium housed in a 200-year-old former warehouse, is a brilliant foodie venture. At Pantechnicon, the aim is to explore the two cultures and bring them into one space with a Nordic restaurant and rooftop bar, Café Kitsuné coffee shop, a bottle shop and a Japanese restaurant downstairs. The spotlight shines bright on textures and flavours from Hokkaido, Osaka and Fukuoka, with some dishes featuring a touch of Nordic influence. The first round begins with sushi – razor-thin sea-bream sashimi, juicy scallop nigiri and fatty tuna maki. Chefs Golding and Hudson have purposefully avoided putting salmon on the menu, to push people to order fish they might not have tried before. We suggest ordering the crispy fried monkfish that comes with a lickable creamy yuzu sauce. Start with cocktail at the eight-seat sushi bar while watching the chefs show off their master fish-carving skills. Sachi is also creating a vibey late-night scene – if a night of Japanese cocktails is what you crave, there’s always the hidden den inspired by Tokyo’s secret speakeasies.With London’s sushi scene only just reaching its peak, this is one of the best in the city. Katharine Sohn

    Address: Sachi at Pantechnicon, 19 Motcomb Street, London SW1X 8LB
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  • Matt Russell

    44. Levan

    • Neighbourhood: Peckham
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Comté fries

    The vibe at Levan is impeccable. The vintage stereo pumps funky music (but not too loudly), a Keith Haring stamp is visible, and deep blue walls create an elevated yet casual atmosphere. And now, with its fifth anniversary in sight, the Peckham stronghold welcomes a new head chef, Philip Limpl and the revitalisation of a much-beloved chef’s menu. No surprises here, but the chef’s menu did not disappoint. Philip injected new life into the Levan dishes with flavours from his Austrian heritage and experience of Japanese cuisine during his time at Kona in Copenhagen. Plates of seasonal dishes were shortly upon us, each as delicious as the next. I’m a sucker for asparagus season, and Levan’s were perfectly cooked. The cuttlefish risotto is rich in flavour, and the chicken is beautifully tender with hints of tarragon. Of course, we couldn’t help but order the comté fries and sea bass crudo to accompany the curated dishes. And finally, we indulged in a custard tart topped with strawberries and a lovely coconut ice cream to balance the sweetness – the perfect finish to a delicious meal. There’s no doubt that Levan remains a neighbourhood gem nestled in the heart of Peckham, and with Philip at the helm, I imagine the next five years will be even more exciting than the last. Amber Port

    Address: Levan, 12-16 Blenheim Grove, London SE15 4QL
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  • Steven Joyce

    45. Bibendum

    • Neighbourhood: South Kensington
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: Tripe and cuttlefish gratin

    Chef Claude Bosi came to London from his home town of Lyon via Ludlow in Shropshire. Claude Bosi at Bibendum which occupies the landmark Michelin tyre headquarters, and has been awarded two stars to boot. The menu is unashamedly French in spirit. An olive pissaladière amuse-bouche pops in the mouth, salty green. Foie gras is handed round in mini waffle cones, sweetened with mango sauce, crisps of chicken skin disappear fast. Want to go really French? Order the tripe and cuttlefish gratin, made to Claude's mum's recipe and paired with a cake of pig's ear and ham. Classic cocktails can be made on request but really it's all about the wine. This is a starry restaurant from a French top chef. Rick Jordan

    Address: Bibendum, Michelin House, 81 Fulham Road, South Kensington, London SW3 6RD
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  • 46. Leroy

    • Neighbourhood: Shoreditch
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: The menu changes seasonally

    Leroy is a word play on Ellory, its previous incarnation in London Fields’ Netil House. Ellory was set up by Jack Lewens and Ed Thaw, two sommeliers with River Café, Spring and Sagar + Wilde on their CVs, along with chef Matthew Young, and quickly won a Michelin star for its deft, European-style dishes. In 2018, they opened on a Shoreditch backstreet, a scrawl of red neon on the brickwork outside; bistro chairs, framed line drawing and marble counter inside. It’s modelled on a Parisian cave à manger, the sort of place to head to after work for a glass of something interesting with a plate of something else. As Leroy is run by two sommeliers you can expect the unexpected from the 80 or so bins – many of which are low-intervention or natural – but they wear their knowledge lightly. Long-time favourites include an excellent Arneis from Utah, and a Pinot Noir from Xavier Goodridge in the Yarra Valley. As you’re in the East End, order a bowl of whelks and garlic mayonnaise, along with whipped cod’s roe and crisps and a quail skewer or two, or simply a few rounds of chorizo. This will inevitably lead you to the main menu, but that’s another story. Rick Jordan

    Address: Leroy, 18 Phipp Street, London EC2A 4NU
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  • Instagram.com/westernslaundry

    47. Westerns Laundry

    • Neighbourhood: Highbury
    • Price range: ££
    • Dish to order: Menus change daily

    This is an unreconstructed spot in Highbury, and the area's most famous address is a little place called the Emirates Stadium; but North London flavour-snufflers and fellow chefs have long been getting excited about Westerns Laundry, the second fixture for the team behind Primeur. The restaurant is a gallery-like space in a Fifties industrial block, opened up with steel-framed windows, cobbles and Jeremie-crafted benches outside; the long and vociferous communal tables inside illuminated by Dan Flavin-style neon dashes. Unlike Primeur, the inspiration at Westerns Laundry are the day boats that heave to around the Cornish coast, with occasional forays to Catalunya and Asia for spicing. The chalkboard has a dynamic roll call of biodynamic wines by the glass, from pockets of Italy, France, Austria and Greece, ripe with Carignan, Zweigelt and Cinsault grapes – but nothing too weird. A convivial neighbourhood restaurant that opened up a neglected part of London. Rick Jordan

    Address: Westerns Laundry, 34 Drayton Park, Highbury, London N5 1PB
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  • Steve Joyce

    48. Padella

    • Neighbourhood: Southwark
    • Price range: £
    • Dish to order: Pici cacio e pepe

    Padella and fresh pasta are practically synonymous in the capital these days. But it wasn’t always this way. When the team behind Trullo opened this no-reservations restaurant in foodie’s paradise Borough Market, it quickly started attracting queues. Don't let that put you off: tables turn fast and there's space to sit downstairs. Is there anything more comforting than pasta and cheese? Everyone goes crazy for the pici cacio e pepe: wiggly worms of pure joy swimming in a pool of molten cheese. It's the ultimate comfort food. It wouldn't be a proper Italian without Negronis on the menu. There are two tarts for dessert (almond-and-rhubarb or chocolate) – order both. Hazel Lubbock

    Address: Padella, 6 Southwark Street, Southwark, London SE1
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  • 49. Koyn

    • Neighbourhood: Mayfair
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Dry-aged sea bass and sweet shrimp

    Housed in the former US embassy in Grosvenor Square, KOYN brings a fresh twist to traditional Japanese cuisine with a duality concept inspired by Mount Fuji. The menu, curated and led by ex-Nobu chef Rhys Cattermoul, is compact – think nigiris, sushi rolls, robata specials. With one request – miso black cod – we left it to the team to surprise us with the rest. The dry-aged sea bass and sweet shrimp with oscietra caviar in yuzu dashi soy that make for a delicate starter. This is best accompanied with the chūtoro (semi-fatty tuna) dressed in sudachi soy, kizami wasabi and tangy yuzu pearls. The robata standouts are the ume glazed charred scallops, roasted cabbage with koji dressing and unsurprisingly, the miso black cod is enough reason to want to return. There are tons of cocktails, sakes and whiskies originating from Japan to choose from but the Akoya mocktail, a blend of Everleaf with shisho, coconut and lychee, delightfully helps cut through the umami richness. Zahra Surya Darma

    Address: Koyn, 38 Grosvenor St, London W1K 4QA
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  • Ben Carpenter

    50. Apricity

    • Neighbourhood: Mayfair
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Charred umami miso cabbage

    The rustic looks here are courtesy of a low-carbon refit that’s resulted in pinkish patina'd plaster and upcycled masonry, with tumbling greenery and potted plants. Chairs are fashioned from decommissioned Coke bottles and the most pleasing aesthetic reminder that you’re somewhere fully eco is the beautiful uniforms by Gung Ho (stylish prints are textiles conjured from reincarnated PET bottles). New Zealand-born Chantelle won us over as chef-proprietor of Tredwells in Covent Garden, and got acclaim as a Green Michelin Star winner. The menu spotlights small-scale producers – charred umami miso cabbage, carnivore-pleasing mushrooms. Wine pairings are low-intervention, and articulated wonderfully by the knowledgeable team. The prices may not seem as low-key as the look of the restaurant, but this is an establishment where absolutely everyone in the supply chain has been paid properly – and nothing tastes better than that. Juliet Kinsman

    Address: Apricity, 68 Duke Street, Mayfair W1K 6JU
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  • Simon Brown

    51. Mount St. Restaurant

    • Neighbourhood: Mayfair
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Mock turtle croquette, oyster mayonnaise, herb salad

    This big-ticket project comes courtesy of Manuela and Iwan Wirth (founders of Artfarm, also behind beloved Scotland hotel The Fife Arms), under the direction of Parisian design and architecture studio Laplace. Mount St. Restaurant is a love letter to contemporary art – the entrance could double as an art gallery, adorned with works by big names – think Freud’s A Plate of Prawns (1958) and Andy Warhol's Lobster (1982). Even the floor is a work of art; a mesmerising mosaic by American artist Rashid Johnson, titled Broken Floor. There’s so much to look at within the lowlit space you could easily sit and just take it all in. But while you’re here, you may as well eat too. Food is traditional British with a cheeky side. The lobster pie comes with a googly-eyed crustacean peering out, the caviar is cheekily served with sour cream and onion Pringles, while the mid-18th century mock-turtle soup has been modernised in the form of a croquette. History lovers will relish in the Highland venison, cooked to perfection, but the Dover sole is the real star of the show. Order it with a side of triple-cooked chips for the poshest fish and chips in town. Lauren Burvill

    Address: Second Floor 41-43 Mount Street, London W1K 2RX England
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  • @lateef.photography

    52. ABC Kitchens at The Emory

    • Neighbourhood: Belgravia
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: salted caramel ice cream sundae

    Flavour leads the way at ABC Kitchens, the new restaurant led by Jean-Georges Vongerichten. The London iteration is said to be an amalgamation of all three ABC Kitchens in New York, but as a first-time diner, I had little expectation ahead of my visit during the week of opening. What immediately struck me was the lack of gimmicks here; just a focus on outstanding ingredients and overwhelming taste. The menu is – like many in London – made up of sharing plates, but given the number of dishes that appealed at first glance, that was no bad thing. We started our meal with spring pea guacamole, which turned out to be a highlight thanks to the freshness of the ingredients. Other memorable dishes included the sea scallop tartare (again, a wave of fresh flavours), the beet carpaccio – which was so beautifully colourful it almost looked like art – and the shrimp, with a wonderful sprinkling of crispy garlic, served in a sauce you’ll want to mop up with a slice of bread. The vibe lends itself to casual group dining, with its cool but laid-back decor (led by artwork from Damien Hirst) and chic, low-lighting once the sun goes down. As stuffed as you might feel, don’t skip dessert – the salted caramel ice cream sundae, topped with homemade sugar swirl, was finished off in a few spoonfuls. Abigail Malbon

    Address: The Clove Club, Shoreditch Town Hall, 380 Old Street, London EC2
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  • Milo Brown

    53. Lisboeta

    • Neighbourhood: Fitzrovia
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Grilled piri-piri halibut

    Portugual's favourite chef Nuno Mendes has cooked everywhere from kitchens in the USA to must-book restaurants in East London, bagging two Michelin stars on his journey. Lisboeta is a return to his roots. Mendes is returning to the recipes of his native Portugal in the informal dining room upstairs and ground floor kitchen and counter bar. Here, you can watch him back in the kitchen after four years. Snacks, small plates and sharing pots include turnip tops, wild garlic and cauliflower in various incarnations, as well as plenty of seafood and pork – whipped lard, dinky pork pies, crumbly blood sausage… Let sommelier Iava Markaityte guide you through some of Portugal’s lesser known vintages. If you fancy something stronger, try a Lisboa Negroni or Madeira old-fashioned. This new opening is a rip-roaring success and a whole lotta fun. Rick Jordan

    Address: Lisboeta, 30 Charlotte Street, W1T 2NG
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  • PATRICIA TOBIN

    54. CORD by Le Cordon Bleu

    • Neighbourhood: St Paul’s
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Cooked on the bone brill

    Anyone well-versed in the food world knows Le Cordon Bleu is the place to learn to cook. So when you bring together 125 years of experience to an all-in-one concept fitted with a café, restaurant and training outpost, expect nothing short of spectacular. Enter CORD. Begin with handpicked Dorset crab, zesty cucumber and radish served with a delicate brown crab dressing – a fabulous palate cleanser to accompany rich and silky duck foie gras and dried fruit chutney. Follow up with cooked on the bone brill and baby potatoes, aubergine purée, and finished with big umami flavours. But it’s the wild rocket risotto paired with baby artichokes, mushroom pickles and hazelnut pralines that has us wanting to come back. Vegan panna cotta with candied ginger, rhubarb with roses and topped with a healthy scoop of sorbet is worth the food coma. What really impresses is the technique and attention to detail that is true to Le Cordon Bleu's history. Zahra Surya Darma

    Address: 85 Fleet Street, London EC4Y 1AE
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  • 55. Kudu

    • Neighbourhood: Peckham
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Cod’s roe crumpet

    The couple behind one of Peckham’s most talked-about restaurant come from a solid pedigree. South African chef Patrick Williams has made his way to this particular South London neighbourhood via The Manor in Clapham and Paradise Garage in Bethnal Green; his partner, Amy Corbin, is the daughter of Chris Corbin (half of restaurant dynasty Corbin & King, who are responsible for some of London’s best restaurants). The space has a grand, old-fashioned charm alongside contemporary touches of pale-pink concrete. You can judge most restaurants straight off on their bread and butter. And in this department, Kudu comes up trumps. A cumin-brioche, based on South African mosbolletjies, is served in a cast-iron pot; it’s light and fluffy and should be dunked straight into the skillet of lardon-laced molten-butter. More South African flavours follow in the mussel potjie, a creamy fish velouté dotted with home-rolled nettle gnocchi; and delicate deep-fried artichokes, served with a miso mayonnaise. This is surely London’s best South African restaurant? Tabitha Joyce

    Address: Kudu, 119 Queens Road, London SE15 2EZ
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  • 56. The Tamil Prince

    • Neighbourhood: Islington
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Channa bhatura

    Among a grid of Islington's manicured parks and grand townhouses, chefs at Indian-spiced pub The Tamil Prince serve dishes tapas style (as they're ready), from the small kitchen. Begin with okra fries and onion bhajis dunked in fiery mint chutney. Tender chunks of Indian cheese smothered in the rich masala sauce is best eaten scooped onto piles of sweet coconut pilau rice. Dhal makhani, a lentil dish, is a must-order. Don't sleep on the Channa bhatura, a melty chickpea dish served with raita. If you've no room for pudding, the hefty cocktail list does a good job of extending sittings. Drinks are overseen by Bar Termini alumni Simone Pugi – we liked the cardamom rum, rose water and lime concoction topped with a branded, edible rice paper circle. Few Indian restaurants are as characterful as this. Connor Sturges

    Address: The Tamil Prince, 115 Hemingford Road, London N1 1BZ
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  • MATTHEW HAGUE

    57. Akub

    • Neighbourhood: Notting Hill
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Lamb neck

    Franco-Palestinian chef Fadi Kattan's new restaurant – behind the sage-green facade of a Notting Hill townhouse – is a collaboration with his friend Rasha Khouri. On the menu you might find seafood; maftool and freekeh; dried yoghurt, zaatar bread and fermented chilli. Palestinian ingredients are spotlighted in the cocktail menu: apricot, date molasses, arak. The team do brunch too, cooking plates of labneh with boiled eggs and cauliflower fritters with sumac onions, served with fresh mint tea or Arabic coffee. This is one of the most interesting tables to book in Notting Hill right now. Lydia Bell

    Address: Akub, 27 Uxbridge Street, London W8 7TQ
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  • 58. Dovetale

    • Neighbourhood: Mayfair
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Wagyu carpaccio

    Dovetale, in a corner of the 1Hotel Mayfair – one of 2023's most hyped hotel openings – is a place of Scandi-luxe neutrals and flickering fires spilling out onto a terrace. The provenance-driven European menu here elevates the classics: Isle of Wight tomato tart, wagyu carpaccio, beef fat chips. For pudding, a retro trolley by the bar serves Knickerbocker Glories – keeping things fresh and fun, but always delicious. The wine list is overseen by Tara Ozols, who won Michelin’s Sommelier Award earlier this year and skews organic and natural. Toby Skinner

    Address: 1 Dover Yard, London W1J 8NE
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  • Benjamin McMahon

    59. Mountain

    • Neighbourhood: Mayfair
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: John Dory, cooked whole on the plancha

    Tomos Parry certainly knows how to pick a location. Brat, his first restaurant, opened in a former pole-dancing bar in Shoreditch. This sequel occupies the same space as Murray’s Cabaret Club, where Henry Kissinger, Princess Margaret, and Paul Getty rubbed shoulders. Like Brat, Mountain takes British ingredients (many from Wales) and barbecues them Spanish-style. We chose Tamworth sow collar and John Dory, cooked whole on the plancha, the latter slashed to reveal white flesh and dressed in tangy pil pil sauce (order the smoked potatoes for a real hit of bonfire cooking). Don't miss the atmospheric basement space for a pre-dinner Negroni. Rick Jordan

    Address: 16-18 Beak Street, London W1
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  • Justin De Souza

    60. Bossa

    • Neighbourhood: Mayfair
    • Price range: ££
    • Dish to order: Entrecote with beef jus

    With designs to bring the soul of Brazil to the UK capital using the vivid and rich ingredients of his home, globally-renowned chef, Alberto Landgraf (of the multi-Michelin-starred restaurant Oteque, in Rio De Janeiro) has opened Bossa, bringing with him Nilson Chaves, Head Chef of Oteque, and Sous Chef Luciana Alves. Dark but ambient with industrial interiors, the space is opulent yet grounded, coming to life as the 9-5 dies down. Dishes are presented to the table as a mix of moreish small and large plates from ‘The Beginning’ and ‘Middle’ of the menu – start with sliced raw yellowtail dusted with bottarga or indulge in part-steamed oysters with a caviar halo. The buzz as the evening goes on is truly contagious. Megan Wilkes

    Address: Bossa, 4 Vere Street, London W1G 0DG
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  • Rebecca Dickson

    61. Counter 71

    • Neighbourhood: Shoreditch
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Fennel and custard tart

    Tucked away down a hidden backstreet in the heart of Shoreditch, Counter 71 is a heavy-hitter in the competitive East London food scene. 17 people can scoot up to the chef's table each night – talented Joe Laker, formerly of Fenn, steers diners on a 15-course journey showcasing the best that British produce has to offer. Laker’s all-taste, no-frills artistry is at the forefront – think langoustine broth, pop-in-the-mouth caviar and sumptuous steak tartare. Counter 71 is the spot for wonderful flavours without the pretentiousness that often accompanies tasting menus like this one. Lucy Bruton

    Address: Counter 71, 71 Nile Street, London N1 7RD
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  • James McDonald

    62. Claridge's Restaurant

    • Neighbourhood: Mayfair
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Seared Orkney Scallops

    Much like the grand-dame hotel herself, Claridge’s Restaurant has lived many fabulous lives over the decades. There's been the partnership with Gordon Ramsay, then there was the Fera era helmed by Simon Rogan, and most recently it lived as the stark-looking Davies and Brook by chef Daniel Humm. Now heralds a new dawn, with the restaurant returning to its simple namesake, operated in-house and what could be its original Art Deco glory, or at least seamlessly recreated to appear so by Bryan O’Sullivan Studio. The smart injection of glamour hits such a classic level that it’s hard to imagine the space ever needing to change again. There’s a lot of beauty to take in, from the mosaic-tiled floor to the glossy tortoiseshell bar at one end of the room and the marble-framed doors of the kitchen at the other. The Art Deco starburst skylights on the ceiling bathe the space in the most flatteringly golden glow.

    There’s glamour to be found on the plates as well – the Parker house loaf bread arrives at the table with butter in the shape of the Claridge’s crest. Chef Coalin Finn, who knows the kitchen well – having previously worked at Davis and Brook – has created a classically British menu. Think Dorset lamb loin and lemony Roasted Norfolk Chicken with a couple of modern twists and opulent truffle touches. The black truffle crumpet with soubise is suitably the poshest of comfort foods. Truffle can also be added to the pumpkin Agnolotti, although its soft buttery morsels are arguably perfect as is. The seared Orkney Scallops are another standout, sexily plump and accompanied by Jerusalem artichokes and vibrantly green French parsley sauce. The grilled native Lobster is a site to behold, de-shelled and reconstructed to resemble its original form, with a rich Américaine sauce pool poured around it at the table. End the night with one of the pretty puddings – the summery Sussex strawberries are plated like a work of art – or continue the joie de vivre with a Melon Manhattan at one of the sexiest bars in London. Lauren Burvill

    Address: Claridge's Restaurant, 49 Brook Street, London, W1K 4HW
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  • Matteo Carassale

    63. Mauro Colagreco, Raffles London at The OWO

    • Neighbourhood: Whitehall
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: four-day fermented radish in sake kasu cream

    You may have noticed a certain sparkly hotel opening of late: Raffles London at the OWO, which takes over half the Old War Office (leaving the other half for premium apartments). Whilst there are nine restaurants and three bars at the ambitious new OWO, the commitment to Argentine chef Mauro Colagreco – he of Mirazur on the Côte d’Azur – is resolute. There’s this, the signature fine-dining restaurant; Mauro’s Table, offering private dining for 20 in a curved corner room; and Saison, the all-day dining space. Colagreco’s hero restaurant espouses sustainable gastronomy – in this case, elevating the humble British vegetable. With supremely elegant back-to-frontness, proteins become an afterthought. Each dish centres a fruit or vegetable hero and arrives with a beautifully illustrated card describing the history of the ingredient. I don’t think I will ever look at lettuce from Elephant and Castle – grown in two weeks, harvested that day, served slightly warmed but raw and dressed in a cockle cream and vermouth sauce – the same way again. Lydia Bell

    Address: Raffles London at The OWO Whitehall London SW1A 2BX United Kingdom
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  • John Carey

    64. Murano

    • Neighbourhood: Mayfair
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: smoked tartlet with creamy ricotta and tart pickled walnut

    Angela Hartnett's Murano has been feeding an elegant crowd since 2008. A few months after opening, the restaurant won a Michelin star (which it has retained ever since) and four AA rosettes (also held onto for the past 15 years). But in summer 2023, Angela and the team shut up shop for a tip-to-toe makeover and reopened with a fresh-feel menu and a new head chef, George Ormond. His menu is considered and stripped back. Just three starters, three pasta dishes, three fish options and three meat options are listed on the a la carte menu each day. Rather cleverly, you can choose between three and six courses from anywhere on the menu – the team adjusts the size of the portions to reflect the amount of plates coming out. The pasta dishes stand out, even on a menu filled with hits, so don't skip over these – we particularly liked the wonderfully simple chicken tortellini in brodo. If you're in the market for meat, the saddleback pork with pickled plum is soft and moreish. Don't sleep on the pudding menu, either: the caramelised Amalfi lemon tart is zingy and fresh and won't put you to sleep. There's also a vegan menu as well as a reasonably priced lunch menu (three courses for £55). This is a classic restaurant that's been given a new lease of life, helmed by a team that's passionate about looking forward as well as celebrating the past. Sarah James

    Address: Murano, 20 Queen Street, Mayfair, London W1J 5PP
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  • Charlie McKay

    65. Akara

    • Neighbourhood: Borough
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: edesi isip

    Aji Akokomi certainly knows how to celebrate West African flavours. Now, the team behind the much-loved Akoko have brought the multi-dimensional flavours of West Africa to a vanilla-toned and spacious industrial-chic setting, in the Victorian railway viaduct of Borough Yards. The concept is a more playful, yet still elegant, exhibit of dishes which also allude to the West African influences in Brazilian cuisine. A signature dish is of course the akara, a soft and spongy crispy-jacketed fritter made from black-eyed beans, which the restaurant is named after. One variety is filled with an umami bomb of silky mixed mushrooms, tossed in a peppery sosu kaani (Senegalese mild chilli sauce). Another option is filled with meaty, slightly sweet and creamy barbecue tiger prawn. A fleshy but pleasantly light hunk of pollock is paired with a velvety yassa sauce, and livened with the herby and spicy kick of a near fluorescent nokoss (Senegalese green marinade). The labu aged beef is notably less adventurous in terms of seasoning, but this does allow the excellent quality of the cut to shine through. Comforting, savoury flavour permeates every fibre of the succulent roasted chicken breast. But for me, the pièce de résistance is the edesi isip, a luscious and fragrant coconut rice decorated with glinting wedges of briny mackerel. The same level of attention devoted to the dishes has been given to the cocktails. My favourite is the mysteriously named ‘75’. It’s delicately effervescent but bursting with tropical flavours, expertly blending ingredients like mango and papaya with hay for some earthiness to temper its sweetness. Finish with a glossed dense cube of tamarind and date cake. Presented on a beautiful, freckled, sandy-brown ceramic plate, it tastes like sticky toffee pudding’s mature, older cousin. Toyo Odetunde

    Address: Akara, Arch 208, 18 Stoney St, London SE1 9AD
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  • Cristian Barnett

    66. Aulis

    • Neighbourhood: Soho
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: Devon Red Ruby beef

    Simon Rogan's little restaurant in Soho could easily be described as an immersive West End theatre experience. “There's a different show every night,” Traveller contributor Rick Jordan said when he reviewed this spot (read the full review in our edit of Soho's best restaurants). Now, it's undergone a serious transformation. Rogan closed Aulis in early 2023, as it entered its sixth year, and reopened with a new look and a fresh menu. The dining room now seats 12 – four more than the original eight spaces – and there's a bar to hang out in for an aperitif or digestif, to properly make an evening of it. The kitchen still works predominantly with ingredients from Rogan's farm up in Cumbria, where the original Aulis opened in Cartmel in 2016. The last few years have been kind to Rogan and his team; in 2022, another of his restaurants, L'Enclume, was awarded a third Michelin star – the highest accolade in the Michelin guide. So it makes sense that Rogan is aiming to elevate his London offering, too. 14 courses change daily, and are cooked in front of diners – they might include Newlyn crab on roasted chicken skin, Orkney scallops with wild chamomile or Devon Red Ruby beef with fermented artichokes and pickled tapioca, as at the time of writing. There are two wine pairings to choose from – one around the £90 mark and one costing £125, as well as a clever non-alcoholic pairing for £49. This has long been one of Soho's best restaurants, and now it's making waves all over again. Lucy Bruton

    Address: 16a St Anne's Court, London W1F 0BF
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  • Selle Agneau

    67. Pavyllon

    • Neighbourhood: Mayfair
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: Lamb chops

    If the number of Michelin stars earned is the metric for ranking a list of the world’s top chefs, Alléno would come in 6th place – the French chef holds 15 Michelin stars across his 17 restaurants worldwide. If that’s not testament enough to his culinary success, nabbing a spot for his first London restaurant inside the Four Seasons Hotel at Park Lane is the cherry on top of the lavishly decorated cake. However, the cake isn’t likely to contain any refined sugar. Alléno is known for modernising French cooking; questioning the reasons behind culinary pillars and inverting them to surprise and delight diners. Removing refined sugars from his dishes is one such twist – instead, flavour is added through alternative ingredients such as birch syrup for sweetness; vacuum techniques are used to enhance sauces and deepen flavours. At Pavyllon, guests can taste the triumphs of Alléno’s methods. Potatoes are glazed in a creamy lovage mayonnaise and placed in a pool of punchy kombu broth; red mullet is garnished with warm chorizo butter and set on a herby bed of chermoula sauce, and perfectly pink lamb chops are served atop a smooth green shiso coulis and a dollop of kalamata olive and garlic anchoïade.

    Chat to Baptiste Beaumard about your wine accompaniments – the head sommelier has worked in some of Paris’ top restaurants and Michelin-starred Trinity before arriving at Pavyllon. His recommendations are unpredictably delightful – we tried a Georgian rosé that added a freshness to the fish, a deep Saint-Julien Bordeaux which stood up against the lamb, and a fruity pear cider to go alongside a dessert of deconstructed meringue with pineapple and raspberries. Interiors let the food do the talking: muted tones of peaceful greens and soothing blues cater to a subdued atmosphere (guests seem to be primarily Four Seasons diehards and more mature clientele) but the light wooden bar that wraps around the open kitchen lets eager foodies watch the team work their magic as “oui chef” echoes around the room. In 2024, Pavyllon won a Michelin star. Olivia Morelli

    Address: Hamilton Pl, Greater, London W1J 7DR
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  • Eleonora Boscarelli

    68. Evelyn's Table

    • Neighbourhood: Chinatown
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: Five course set menu

    It would be easy to walk past Evelyn’s Table’s humble exterior and miss it if not for the small crowd eagerly waiting to be ushered inside. After descending a small, dark staircase, diners are greeted with an intimate space and an open kitchen staffed by a small, passionate team. Head Chef James Goodyear was the first to introduce himself, setting an engaging, relaxed atmosphere and building anticipation for the show to come. First up, the wine. There are two wine pairing styles at Evelyn’s Table, the ‘Firm Favourites’ and ‘The Path Less Trodden.’ I went with ‘The Pass Less Trodden’, while my partner went with the ‘Firm Favourites’, both unique and delightful. The five-course tasting menu celebrated British produce and Scandinavian and Japanese techniques with the utmost finesse. Goodyear and his team beautifully orchestrate every dish, from Ike Jime trout smoked with pine to Lake District Venison with wild mushrooms and juniper. The standout had to be the Scottish langoustine with celeriac and koshihikari rice, which managed to be sweet and tart simultaneously. The team also throws in a few surprises, like a malt sourdough with rose and beet trifle, which I’m still dreaming weeks later. And lest we forget Goodyear’s exciting take on dessert, jerusalem artichoke paired with truffle honey and tonka bean – an explosion of earthy, sweet flavours. This small team works flawlessly together, showcasing their passion and talent in every dish, guaranteeing a beautiful evening. Amber Port

    Address: Evelyn's Table, The Blue Posts, Cellar, 28 Rupert St, London W1D 6DJ
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  • Clare Lewington

    69. Silo

    • Neighbourhood: Hackney Wick
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: the menu changes daily, but we liked the pumpkin ice cream, tart sea buckthorn snow and silky crème fraîche

    When chef Douglas McMaster opened Silo in Brighton in 2014, most people’s response to ‘zero waste’ would have been ‘zero what?!’ McMaster was well and truly ahead of the green curve with his innovative approach to cooking based on the simple but quite out-there idea of not having a bin. One glance at the concise menu projected onto the back wall (they don’t print the food menus as they change so often) and diners will spot McMaster’s unusual ingredient pairings. The menu romps on, a succession of flavours that jar, but work, until the puddings, which are just as creative and wild. Get the daily tasting menu to try as many dishes as possible: every single one – all of it – is bold, daring and delicious. This is progressive food in both approach and taste, and it will leave you awestruck. Yes, it’s good for the planet – but it’s also just damn good. Sonya Barber

    Address: Silo, The White Building, Unit 7 Queens Yard, Hackney Wick, London E9 5EN
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  • Will Pryce

    70. Brooklands, The Peninsula Hotel

    • Neighbourhood: Hyde Park Corner
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: Racan guinea fowl

    The chefs at Brooklands, The Peninsula Hotel’s new rooftop restaurant and bar, know they’ve got their work cut out when it comes to holding customers’ attention. Its eye-popping interiors are a playful homage to aeronautics and cars – twin passions of the Peninsula’s owner, Sir Michael Kadoorie, who is a pilot and classic car collector. An aluminium model Concorde spans the entire ceiling, while the carpet is patterned with stellar constellations. Add to that the stunning terrace views of the London skyline and Buckingham Palace, and you’d be forgiven for forgetting to even peruse the menu. But culinary director Claude Bosi (of Bibendum fame) and chef Francesco Dibenedetto are not ones to be upstaged. Using French techniques and exceptionally high-quality ingredients from around these isles, their seven-, five- and three-course British menus are a triumph of dining over visual distraction. They include a delicious ‘devil-style’ Dorset snail, and Bosi’s signature Racan guinea fowl with sea beet and Scottish razor clams. The celeriac, nosotto, crab and coconut was an excellent take on a seafood risotto, its creaminess infused with flavours of the (sizeable) crab chunks. Another standout was the chicken liver, chilled like a blob of ice cream and nestled in Coronation chicken sauce, in a nod to Bibendum’s foie gras concept. The bouncy lamb, mint and pastrami were cooked to medium-rare perfection and accompanied by a jus that made the mouth water. Together with a large selection of French and New World vintages, it’s safe to say the crew at Brooklands have truly earned their wings. Noo Saro-Wiwa

    Address: The Peninsula, 1 Grosvenor Place, London SW1X 7HJ
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  • 71. Petersham Nurseries

    • Neighbourhood: Covent Garden
    • Price range: ££££
    • Dish to order: Whatever fresh pasta is on the menu

    Petersham Nurseries Café is not really a café, but one of London’s most beloved restaurants. This, their second opening under the same name is filled with wrought-iron tables and chairs (both inside and out), huge vintage chandeliers, Murano glassware and simple posies of freshly cut flowers. Start with technicolour heritage radishes dipped in spicy crab, or buffalo mozzarella with shelled broad beans, mint and chilli. Next up: perfect green pasta parcels of ricotta and nettle and marjoram – all in a sauce so deliciously creamy you could eat it by the spoonful; or saffron gnocci with Cornish mussels and a sprinkle of spring flowers. Head to the bar next door, La Goccia, for its Garden gin and tonic, zingy with fresh pea flavour and a basil tonic. Many have heard about Petersham Nurseries’ phenomenal food, but much fewer have made the trip – this Covent Garden location is set to change that. If you can get a table outside in the summer, go. Tabitha Joyce

    Address: Petersham Nurseries, Floral Court, London, WC2E 9FB
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  • 72. Smoking Goat

    • Neighbourhood: Shoreditch
    • Price range: ££
    • Dish to order: Goat shoulder spiced with massaman paste

    Ben Chapman's Thai-spiced hotspots are some of London’s best-loved – bringing authentic flavours from northern Thailand to well-sourced ingredients in Soho (at Kiln) and Shoreditch (where Smoking Goat sits right on the high street). Chapman isn't afraid of spice. A delicious duck laab has a searing heat that might make your cheeks sweat (a side order of the rich, lardo-fried rice helps cool things a little). The mains are pretty super-sized. An enormous goat shoulder spiced with massaman paste could easily keep a table of four busy, as would the plate of drunken noodles with charred beef brisket. The moral of the story is to go with a big group so you can try the lot. And order lots of water. The nice thing about Smoking Goat is you can just stop by for a drink. Plus, if you're waiting for a table, there are dedicated counters to perch at and peruse the menu over a pint of One Mile End Brewery's Juicy 4pm ale. A fun, tasty and nicely priced Shoreditch joint. Order a magnum or two of craft beer and a couple of the large sharing plates, and settle in. Tabitha Joyce

    Address: Smoking Goat, 64 Shoreditch High Street, London E1 6JJ
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  • ZHEZHAKOV

    73. Kink(all)y

    • Neighbourhood: Bloomsbury
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Goat shoulder spiced with massaman paste

    Georgia-born chef David Chelidze made waves in Moscow with his Modern Georgian restaurant Hedonist. Financier-turned-restaurateur Diana Militski grew up in the States and Russia, a lifelong Georgiaphile. They’ve united for what is Militski’s first project – not that you’d guess it, with the precision passion she exudes. It’s a short, curated menu of intense but concentrated passions. It segues from small to larger plates, followed by khinkali (Georgian dumplings) and then one choice of dessert. It’s paired with a trio of natural wines from Georgia, which on the night I visited included the full-bodied, blackcurranty Nicolas Antadze; the orangey, unfiltered Shota Lagazidze (earthiness personified) and Didimi, a crisp and citrusy Krakhuna by slow food and wine hero Ramaz Nikoladze. The small plates are unforgettable. There’s a light, moussy rabbit pate on mazuki Georgian sweet bread with a soupçon of rhubarb and a “Gurian style” six-hour-dehydrated confit-like beetroot (the Georgians usually use cabbage) with Tkemali plum sauce on a ricotta bed with a hint of wild mint. Larger plates included Imeruli flatbread with cheese, lamb chasuli (a sour plum, wine and tarragon casserole) and a pistachio praline. Their twisted dumplings are a switch-up on the standard, chunky versions, being soft, light and delicate, with unusual contents. “It’s a bit controversial,” says Diana. A red-lamp-lit bar is tucked away behind swishy curtains in the basement, the perfect hidden place for a tucked-away date between Wednesdays and Saturdays. Cocktails created by Andrew Pruts, part of the team behind Insider, are twists on classics. I loved their Nomad, a Negroni that switches the Campari for bitters, micro coriander and strawberry. Restaurants don’t normally have me googling flights to Tbilisi, but this one did. Lydia Bell

    Address: 43 Charlotte Street, W1T 1RS
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  • 74. Kioku by Endo

    • Neighbourhood: Whitehall
    • Price range: £££
    • Dish to order: Goat shoulder spiced with massaman paste

    Few places are as grand and historically significant as the OWO – a hotel that's home to nine restaurants, including Kioku by Endo. Clean lines, natural materials and a subdued colour palette define this elegant space, and lest we forget the endless views of Big Ben and Parliament. There’s a bustling open kitchen plan that overlooks the dining space, allowing guests to see first-hand the detailed precision with which the team works. We’re encouraged to try the Tasting Menu to experience the breadth of the menu, ranging from a nigiri selection of bluefin tuna, yellowtail and trout to an aged monkfish paired with smoked eel, ginger sauce and a potato rosti. The scallops with grilled radicchio are deliciously fresh, and the smoky and citrus notes create a lovely balance of flavours, while the beetroot salad with blackcurrant is perfectly earthy and sweet. The duck breast melts in your mouth, singing with umami and complemented beautifully by a zingy hispi cabbage. We move on to pudding – the twig tea créme brûlée with cream cheese ice cream officially becoming my favourite dessert of the year – salty, sweet and dead tasty. Kioku by Endo will undoubtedly be the talk of the town this year. Spectacular food aside, the team and servers are warm, passionate and engaged, making for an evening well spent. Amber Port

    Address: Sixth Floor, The OWO, 2 Whitehall Pl, London SW1A 2BD
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