I pried open the blinds, letting dawn’s filigreed light into the cabin. Outside my window, wild forest zoomed past. All night the train had barreled up the “jungle rails,” a historic set of tracks that spans the length of peninsular Malaysia, from its southernmost tip to its border with Thailand in the northeast. Those tracks would lead us to Taman Negara, one of the world’s oldest rainforests and the last refuge of the Malayan tiger.
I was one of 56 passengers, from as far as Texas, Romania, and New Zealand, who’d assembled the previous afternoon at Singapore’s Woodlands station to experience the return of the Eastern & Oriental Express, A Belmond Train, Southeast Asia, four years after being shut down by the pandemic. Waving the sticky heat around with our tickets, we awaited our boarding call, combing the crowd for the likelihood of new friendships.
There’d be plenty of time for both great conversation and long silence. Over three days, the train would bear north on the eastern coast to Taman Negara, then backtrack and head up Malaysia’s more populated west coast to Penang before looping back to Singapore. We’d pass forests, paddy fields, and townships while cosseted in the silken luxury that Belmond’s sleepers, like the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, are renowned for. For its second coming the train has retained its trademark exterior green and gold, but its interiors have been carefully restyled. My cabin was bathed in peacock blues and jade greens, with vintage touches like brass lamps and fine marquetry. A velvet couch would turn into a bed at night; cherry wood panelling concealed a full bathroom. This was my private oasis – breakfast and high tea would arrive here, along with wake-up calls and turn-downs – and for my part, I’d sit by the large windows with the tasselled curtains and surrender to the views.
On our first evening, the piano bar – resplendent in gold Thai silks, with tiger orchids blooming across the green carpet – was filled with laughter, the glug-glug-glug of Champagne pouring, and the tinkle of keys. An opening night special, magician Ming Da brandished a pack of cards and a broad grin for guests in floaty dresses and linen jackets. I met Andy and Chris, a young couple in tech from San Francisco, and Rob and Alan, brothers from Nova Scotia with unflagging pep. We toasted the start of the journey, then ate laksa bouillabaisse in the train’s glamorous dining cars as it trundled through the darkness.
About twice the size of Singapore, Taman Negara is the largest protected lowland rainforest in Malaysia. It’s the headliner of Belmond’s “Wild Malaysia” itinerary, which gives passengers special access to its diverse and vulnerable ecosystems. Accompanied by guides, we piled into jeeps and drove through a pristine forest wreathed in mist, looking for signs of the dusky leaf monkey or barking deer. I knew better than to expect to see a tiger – the species is critically endangered here. An elevated walkway took us close to the canopies of trees, including the majestic Tualang, which have been undisturbed for millions of years. We waded in a river where Mahseer fish nibbled at our feet, and ate spicy karipaps and seri muka on its shaded bank. Illegal logging and poaching are ever-present threats in Taman Negara, but for a moment the babble of the river and the chattering of cicadas let us forget those concerns.
Daytime excursions such as this are designed to spotlight less-explored sides of Malaysia. On the second morning, we rode a ferry to George Town, a colonial port on the island of Penang, where we twisted through its by-lanes by Vespa, exploring street murals, shop houses and artist ateliers. Other adventures were less planned: a longer-than-usual pit stop at the historic tin-mining town of Ipoh turned into a heritage walk, with train manager Wolfgang Eipeldauer leading a small group past stately colonial buildings and hip cafés with peeling paint and bright stools.
But perhaps the greatest pleasures came from finding a quiet corner and losing myself in the unfolding landscapes. The ride affords glimpses into the small towns of rural Malaysia, where a quarter of the country’s population live, with their candy-coloured homes and tin-roofed stalls. Between the towns, there are rice fields, limestone outcroppings, and repeat patterns of oil palms that stretch as far as the eye can see.colourful
When I wanted company, the piano bar was a fulcrum of swinging social activity. There Kishen, the lead bartender, dipped into his arsenal of dehydrated herbs, grilled pineapple shrubs, and baobab jellies. “I’m not just making drinks,” he told me. “I’m giving you a piece of my heart.”
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As the journey progressed, the passengers’ stories got more personal. Barbara, an older British lady, recounted the bucket-list adventures she’s gone on every year since emerging from a long coma 27 years ago. By the third day guests were sharing cigars and coffee on the observation deck and passing out tiaras and maracas for birthdays of fellow passengers.
The carousing reached its apogee on the final night. After a sumptuous meal that included Penang duck curry, a few of us returned to the bar, where the singer was belting out power pop hits. Chris and Andy ordered a round of nightcaps – pineapple-infused cognac sweetened with honey from the Tualang tree, which came out flaming – and then a couple more. “One more song,” we took turns shouting. We’d barely noticed when we arrived (or when we left) Kuala Lumpur; the bar car had turned into a rowdy sing-along. By morning we’d be back among Singapore’s bright lights and thrumming streets. But at that moment, we were a world away.
What to know before you go
The routes
There are currently two routes offered on the Eastern & Oriental Express. The three-night Wild Malaysia itinerary departs from Singapore, travelling northeast through Malaysian countryside to Taman Negara National Park before heading back down and then up the Western coast of Malaysia to Penang and looping back to Singapore. On the Essence of Malaysia itinerary, which also runs for three nights, you travel from Singapore through Kuala Lumpur, Langkawi, and Penang, with excursions that allow for snorkelling and island exploration.
The cabins
There are three levels of cabins available on Belmond's Eastern & Oriental Express. The Pullman Cabin, in shades of orange and red, is the narrowest and comes with two berths; the lower berth turns into a plush couch by day. The slightly larger State Cabin, bathed in peacock blues and greens, has twin beds – the couch turns into one, while the other pulls out from the wall by the window. The Presidential Suite offers the most space with a larger bathroom, a separate seating area, a mini bar, and additional storage. Each night, an indulgent turn-down service turns your cabins into bedrooms – look out for the thoughtful gifts on your pillow.
What to pack
You are allowed to bring approximately 60 lbs. of hand luggage with you on the train – and the recommendation is to bring soft luggage. Cabins come with a luggage rack and a narrow storage cupboard with a few hangers. If you have additional luggage with you, the team offers to safely store it for the duration of the train trip, but remember, it won't be accessible during the train journey, so ensure your medicines, wallet, passport, toiletries, and any important gadgets are packed in your hand luggage.
How to dress
For daytime excursions, pack cool, breathable cotton and linens, as well as comfortable shoes for walking and a hat for protection from what can be an unyielding sun. By evening, the vibe on the train turns more formal – think cocktail dresses and sandals for women and summer jackets and loafers or Oxfords for men. Still, there’s an ease to the atmosphere on board compared to some other luxury trains, even within the Belmond universe. Dinner jackets are recommended but far from insisted upon – an “unbuttoned luxury,” if you will, that suits both climate and landscape.
This article was first published on Condé Nast Traveler.