Review: Hotel Balzac Paris hotel review

Why book?

The winning combo of modern clean-line elegance and an intimate vibe adds up to a refreshing change from the fussy formality of other renowned luxury neighbours in the 8^th arrondissement, not to mention the hotel’s superb Eiffel Tower views.

Set the scene

Minutes away from the throngs of tourists on the humming Champs Elysées, this 58-room hotel sits on a peaceful residential street at the corner of rue Balzac and rue Lord Byron, two of Paris’ most illustrious writers. Their shared sharp wit and scathing observations of society already sets the imagination ablaze (one could dare to envision a hotel inspired by a mash-up of their lifestyles), but fortunately, the literary nod ends with the street signs. Au contraire, there’s nothing flamboyant about this gorgeously restored triangular building, whose creamy façade, round awnings and period piece wrought-iron balconies and lanterns conjure quiet glamour. The moment you step into the sleekly designed lobby — high ceilings, polished marble checkerboard floors, oak-panelled walls and long white couches — you’re greeted by the staff with a swift iPad check-in and handed a cold drink. Just beyond is the salon, a glass-roofed lounge decked out in a medley of warm caramels and beiges, with deep couches, Art Deco-inspired lamps and small tables where breakfast and afternoon light meals are also served. The bar is a high design showstopper: an intimate glowing sunken hideaway for a romantic tête-à-tête.

Backstory

Now a Relais & Châteaux property, the historic Hotel Balzac was glamorously reinvented by hospitality guru Olivier Bertrand (Hotel Saint James, Château des Fleurs), who collaborated with cool-kids interior design couple, Festen, Charlotte de Tonnac and Hugo Sauzay (Le Pigalle, Hôtel du Couvent). “We wanted to make the hotel feel classic but not corporate,” says de Tonnac. “The challenge was finding the balance between luxury and the history of the place.”

And speaking of the past, literary sticklers should know that romance was already in the air, not far from where guests sleep: rue Balzac, once called Avenue Fortunée, was once a private gated road for wealthy Parisians. When the writer acquired a mansion on the street in 1846, he renovated it in grand style for the longtime love of his life, Madame Hanska, whom he finally married in May 1850. As fate would have it, Balzac died there three months later; some three decades later, before her death, Hanska sold the house to a member of the Rothschild family, who tore it down in 1890. Banish the thought of errant hotel ghosts — technically speaking, Balzac’s maison particulier once stood further down the block at number 18, but the entire street was renamed to honour the great author of 91-tome The Human Comedy.

The rooms

The 58 rooms and suites are decked out in neutral tones and chocolate browns, custom-designed oak furniture, parquet floors and spacious double-sink marble bathrooms. Spread over three south-facing floors, they all vary in size and shape, from the cosy “Boudoir” room to sprawling 2-room Ciel de Paris suite; some have pretty fabric-lined walls “to add a warm touch,” says designer de Tonnac. Our charming third floor suite (under the eaves) had a white-washed sloping roof and a luxe bohemian vibe that made you want to sit at your desk, pen in hand. High point: a balcony with a table for two to take in the stunning view of the Eiffel Tower and neighbouring rooftops.

Food and drink

“Great love affairs start with Champagne and end with tisane,” Balzac once quipped. We couldn’t resist starting the evening with a flute of Veuve Clicquot at the Balzac Bar, where head Bartender Julien Quettier excels in signature cocktails, served with luxe snacks from Petrossian caviar to a spicy lobster roll. The hotel has no real restaurant, but you can find the finest herbal tea, famed hot chocolate from Paris’ tea salon, Angelina, and great organic Ethiopian coffee (Balzac was known to drink as many as 30 cups of coffee a day) served with copious breakfasts in the atmospheric salon. Call it brunch: the “Balzac” menu includes fruit juices, eggs, flaky pastries with jam and honey, cold cuts, smoked salmon, cheeses, yogurt, fruit salad. There’s also a tantalising room service menu that features a vegetarian “Balzac burger” along with foie gras and a black truffle croque monsieur and assorted pastries. And come dinner time, you won’t have to journey very far. There’s a secret passage from the hotel to three-Michelin-star chef Pierre Gaignaire’s celebrated eponymous gastronomic haunt, right next door, and a superb Thai restaurant, Thiou, at the Hotel Norman across the street.

The spa

The holistic Japanese-inspired Ikoi Spa, a soothing mix of precious wood and rich browns, has three treatment cabins, a sauna plus a pretty plunge pool to reenergise after serious shopping sprees and trotting around museums. Add to that a small but well-equipped fitness room and a studio space for Yoga classes. Highlight: the 90-minute anti-aging Eternal Time signature treatment with French organic brand Omnisens.

The neighbourhood

Less than a ten-minute stroll from the Arc de Triomphe, these calm backstreets are a sanctuary of high-end apartment mid-and late 19^Th century buildings, owned by the likes of Parisian bankers and high-level executives. There’s even a long-established little cinema, Le Balzac and a village-like vibe on these few square blocks. Expect an instant change of pace just minutes away, once you hit the 8^th arrondissement’s Triangle d’Or, a luxe enclave of high-end boutiques from Dior, Vuitton and Chanel to Dolce et Gabbana, Gucci and Pucci.

The service

Friendly and professional, from the attentive and knowledgeable concierge to the young staff.

Who comes here?

An international mix of couples enamoured with the glam Right Bank allure, fashionistas, inveterate shoppers and young professionals making deals over café au lait and croissants.

For families

The subdued atmosphere may not be ideal for the young and the restless, but the central location is reason enough to for families with well-behaved tots in tow to use this elegant bolt hole as home base. All the Junior Suites and Suites have fold-out sofa beds to accommodate kids and there are 8 adjoining rooms of every category. The Tour Eiffel suite sleeps 5.

Eco effort

No plastic in the rooms, recycled glass water bottles and LED lighting. There are water-conserving pressure reducers. Be forewarned — the moment you open your window or sliding glass door to the balcony, the air-con or heat turns off automatically.

Accessibility

A wheelchair lift and three accessible Deluxe rooms on different floors—103, 203, and 303, with sweeping views.

Anything else to mention?

Attention to detail prevails, starting with the old-fashioned leather tassel key to your room with a hidden electronic device inside.

Is it worth it?

Yes, absolutely, for the tranquility and deep comfort in the midst of the City of Light’s showiest and most emblematic district.