How to spend 3 days in Paris

Beauty, intellect, history, art, food and character – the French capital really does have it all – and if you don’t agree, we’d wager you’ve not been looking in the right places. Avoid the tourist traps around the Champs-Elysées and Eiffel Tower and discover the many villages the city encloses, each with their own distinct character.

Paris has been changing, too: in the last few years, the mayor has added miles of bike lanes and more links than ever out into the near suburbs, while a younger generation of internationally minded entrepreneurs sets the tone for a new wave of relaxed hospitality. Allons-y!

Day One

Morning

Start your Paris exploration on the picturesque Left Bank. If you want to make this once bohemian (although now rather upscale) neighbourhood your HQ, we recommend French Theory. It’s a hip three-star hotel with its own coffee shop. After fueling up on top-notch java, head out on foot to explore Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Start with a morning stroll around Jardin du Luxembourg, the most quintessentially Parisian park.

Now it’s time to pay homage to the literary heritage of this area.  At the north of the park, you’ll find The Red Wheelbarrow, a charming English-language bookshop complete with dreamy floor-to-ceiling shelves. Amble north past the Odéon Theatre, onto Rue de l’Odéon, noting the plaque that marks the site of the original Shakespeare & Company bookshop. Finish the book-themed browsing in San Francisco Book Co, where you’ll find a treasure trove of second-hand tomes.

After all that intellectual ambling, it’s time to refuel. Head to Treize au Jardin, a popular Franco-American café on the north side of the park; opt for one of their delicious savoury tarts.

Afternoon

Cross the river and take in the more buzzy, built-up vibe of the Right Bank. Travelling by foot, you can pootle north through Saint-Germain (bus routes 20 and 27 also make the crossing). Take the gallery-lined Rue de Seine to emerge at the river, before crossing the elegant Pont des Arts, taking in the fabulous views.

Next, we’re heading to Musée des Art Décoratifs, located in an annex of the Louvre palace, known for its excellent temporary exhibits (book ahead to save time). After your culture fix, cross the road to the Jardin du Palais Royal. Here, you’ll find the distinctive black and white columns of artist Daniel Buren and a verdant local park where locals relax around the lawns on elegant green metal chairs. If refreshments are in order, stop for a coffee and cake at Café Kitsuné, a trendy spot with outdoor seating.

Evening

For your first evening in Paris, we recommend French tapas at the Avant Comptoir de la Terre by Odéon, back on the Left Bank. This bar-style restaurant, where patrons either stand or sit on high stalls, comes from Yves Camdeborde. Nextdoor, you’ll find the star chef’s sit-down restaurant Le Comptoir du Relais. The Avant Comptoir follows the same principles of high-quality seasonal ingredients, but served in small-plate portions; think oxtail croquettes with red wine and horseradish, or razor clams with tarama roe. Natural wines accompany.

Day Two

Morning

Let’s start today in the Marais. Elegant mansion houses are the evidence of this area’s history as an aristocratic village. We recommend starting with a croissant and coffee on the elegant Place des Vosges. Try Café Hugo, an old-fashioned Parisian café tucked under the arcades of the mansion blocks that hem the square. Next, we’re going north to the trendy Upper Marais via the pretty, boutique-lined Rue de Turenne. Book ahead to see an exhibition at the Musée Picasso. Located inside a grand 17th-century house, this woman-run museum does a great job of juxtaposing the artist’s fabulous work with thoughtful contemporary exhibitions that present a counterpoint to his sometimes problematic attitude towards women.

For lunch, wind your way up to Marché des Enfants Rouges, Paris’s oldest food market, located off the fashionable rue de Bretagne. Take your pick from Lebanese, Italian or Moroccan food, or traditional French pancakes at the ultra-popular Chez Alain Miam Miam.

Afternoon

This afternoon, we’re heading to the world’s most life-affirming graveyard, Père Lachaise. Walk the cobbled alleys bordered by lush vegetation and trees to discover the artistic graves of historical figures such as Edith Piaf, Jim Morrison and Oscar Wilde. In recent years, the site has become known for the aliveness of its biodiversity thanks to cemetery keeper Benoît Gallot and his hit book and Instagram account documenting the activity of the site’s foxes, birds and feral cat community. While you’re in this neighbourhood, stop at the Brit-run Dancing Goat café, known for its quality coffee and cakes.

Evening

Kick off the evening with apéro at Le Perchoir Ménilmontant, a rooftop bar with a 360-degree view of the surrounding skyline. For dinner, head to nearby Gramme, a fine example of Paris’s neo-bistro movement. Book ahead to secure your table in this intimate dining room serving seasonal food with the obligatory natty wines. For night owls, this area is full of hip bars, or you can reserve tickets for a concert at La Maroquinerie in Belleville.

Day Three

Morning

We'll start day three in Montmartre. We recommend beginning on the less tourist-trodden northern side of the hill around Lamarck-Caulaincourt Metro stop. Fuel up for the day at Two Doors Coffee Shop, before climbing the cobbled Rue des Saules or taking the 40 bus to reach the charming Musée de Montmartre. Visit an exhibition and explore the pretty hilltop gardens and vineyard. Head down the southern side and amble downhill along the charming café-lined Rue des Martyrs (notable snack stops: Lebanese ice cream at Bachir; pastries at Rose Bakery or Maison Landemaine). Keep heading south by foot or bus to reach the stylish Hôtel des Grands Boulevards and have lunch in the elegant courtyard restaurant.

Afternoon

We’ll head back to the Left Bank for some relaxing exploration of the Latin Quarter. Wander the verdant lanes of Le Jardin des Plantes botanical garden, where roses, peonies or vines grow, depending on the season. If travelling en famille, do like the locals and take the little ones to the zoo inside the garden. Afterwards, relax with a mint tea in the courtyard at the Grande Mosquée de Paris.

Evening

Start your last evening in the City of Lights with a swanky drink at Bar Joséphine, the exquisite cocktail bar inside the historic Hôtel Lutetia. Depending on your budget and preferences, either take a dinner cruise on Ducasse sur Seine, an electric boat that takes you past the Eiffel Tower while you enjoy top-notch cuisine – or pick up bread, cheese and wine from a local shop and enjoy a picnic on western tip of Ile-Saint-Louis, with views onto Notre-Dame.