How to spend a day in Montmartre, Paris, according to a local
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When it comes to the City of Light, there’s a special charm to Montmartre. Paris has plenty of gorgeous and characterful neighbourhoods to its name, but not many inspire as much wistful sighing as that beloved and large hill in the 18th arrondissement, crowned by the Basilica of the Sacré-Cœur. Mention Montmartre, and most will imagine a laid-back, less glitzy, but no less romantic side of Paris.
During the Belle Époque, at the cusp of the 19th and 20th centuries, the neighbourhood was an artistic hub where luminaries like Monet, Renoir, and Degas lived or worked. At the same time, cabarets like Le Chat Noir and the Lapin Agile gave the area a reputation for nightlife and entertainment. Today, that artistic and intimate spirit prevails: painters sell their pieces in Place du Tertre and thoughtful works of graffiti adorn the façades of buildings, like Le mur de je t’aime, by the calligraphist Fédéric Baron and artist Claire Kito, which features the phrase “I love you” written in over 250 languages. And, of course, the famous films Moulin Rouge! and Amélie, both released in 2001, cemented the area's mythic status in the imaginations of anyone who rented the movies from Blockbuster (or belonged to the movie-buff side of Tumblr).
Rebekah Peppler is a cookbook author, recipe developer, a Paris-based contributing writer for Condé Nast Traveler, and a James Beard Foundation nominee. For more of Peppler's recommendations, check out her monthly Paris-focused newsletter Shortlisted.
There’s a quieter, more lived-in quality to Montmartre, Paris. Its winding rues and tucked-away alleys lend themselves well to an afternoon of flânerie in the city. It’s easy to get here from anywhere in the French capital; it’s served by multiple Metro stations, and the Montmartre Funicular makes scaling the hill a breeze. Some of the classic spots are the Musée de Montmartre, dedicated to Renoir and his contemporaries; Le Très Particulier, a hotel-restaurant-bar semi-hidden behind a gate and an intercom; and Hardware Societé, a French-Aussie brunch spot with to-die-for viennoiserie.
But to get even more insider recommendations, we asked a Montmartre local: Rebekah Peppler, a contributing writer at Condé Nast Traveler, cookbook author, and recipe developer with books about French living under her belt – Apéritif, À Table, and Le Sud. When asked for her tips for a perfect Saturday in Montmartre, she naturally shared a fabulous food-focused itinerary with where to walk and shop. Here’s how to spend a day eating, shopping, and strolling through Montmartre, Paris.
Mathieu Pellerin/Clove Coffee Shop9am: Wake up with a coffee, tea, or hot chocolate
“My mornings start with coffee every day of the week and, on weekends, I head to my favourite window seat at Clove Coffee Shop (14 rue Chappe) with whatever book I’m reading. The minimal, welcoming space is just one street off the steps to the Sacré-Cœur and owners Ella Fatima McElroy, and Florent Marcault have one of the best coffee programs in Paris. The beans are a rotating selection from speciality roasters (including Dak Coffee Roasters, The Picky Chemist and Swerl Coffee Roasters), and the ceramics are all made by Ella. While a pour-over is my drink of choice, if you prefer tea, they carry a solid selection from Artéfact. Or if it’s chocolat chaud you seek, theirs isn’t to be missed. Tables are first come, first serve, and they do fill up on weekends, so plan to get there early. If you’re hungry, pastries are sourced from nearby Léonie (just down the hill in the 9th arrondissement).”
Alexander Spatari/Getty10am: See the Sacré-Cœur and its views of the city
“Join the crowds around the base of the Sacré-Cœur (35 rue de Chevalier de la Barre) for stunning views of the city. You can also climb 300 winding, narrow stairs to the top of the dome for the complete view-meets-workout experience. But once you’ve had your fill, I prefer to walk the perimeter of the basilica and stop in the quiet, terraced gardens of Parc Marcel Bleustein Blanchet, also called Square or Parc de la Turlure (1 rue de la Bonne), on my way to the backside of the hill.”
Anne Claire Heraud/P1 Bouche11am: Pick up pastries, or sit down for brunch
“The croissants at Atelier P1 (157 rue Marcadet) are some of the best in Paris and they (justifiably) sell out quickly on weekends. Pick up a few of the traditional varieties plus a pain chocolat praliné (filled with hazelnut and chocolate) and a shatteringly crisp palmier for later. If you’re planning on picnicking for lunch, ask for a demo of their signature loaf or a slice of focaccia and/or one or two of their savoury or sweet tarts. If you prefer a sit-down brunch to a picnic, P1 Bouche (151bis rue Marcadet) just down the street is the spot.”
Getty12pm: Picnic with wine and cheese, or stop for a crêpe
“Stop for additional provisions at nearby natural wine shop Rock Bottles (22 rue du Ruisseau), then make the seven-minute walk to Fromagerie Racines (2 rue Ferdinand Flocon) for a selection of very fine cheese and charcuterie. As for spots to picnic, one of my favourite things about Montmartre is all the little squares and gardens tucked around the neighbourhood. Wander and find a park bench that suits or retrace your steps and loop back to the Parc Marcel or to the front stairs and hillside of the Sacré-Cœur. If you’re not picnicking, the Montmartre outpost of Breizh Café (93 R. des Martyrs) is always a solid choice.”
Getty Images3pm: Go shopping or catch some French cinéma
“Post-lunch, take a wander and shop at a few Montmartre favourites. For chocolates to take home – or enjoy on the spot – the rue Lepic outpost of À la Mère de Famille (23 rue Lepic) is my go-to. They also carry select pastries from famed Parisian pâtisserie Stohrer should you need a sweet mid-afternoon pick-me-up. Just a few shops down on the same street is shoes and leather goods shop Anthology Paris (25 rue Lepic). If you’re looking for deals, they also have an archives shop in the neighbourhood (16 rue Ronsard); A.P.C. does too – A.P.C. Surplus (20 rue André del Sarte). On the same street is Lung (7 rue André del Sarte) for a truly excellent second-hand selection. And there's the Montmartre outpost of the French clean beauty concept store Oh My Cream (90 rue des Martyrs). Or, if an afternoon movie feels more your vibe, check out the showtimes at Cinéma Studio 28 (10 rue Tholozé). Opened in 1928, it’s one of the city’s oldest cinemas and shows movies only in V.O. (version originale, meaning they aren’t dubbed in French but do have French subtitles).”
Valentin Le Cron/Poney Club6pm: Have an apéro moment
“Whenever it pleases you, stop for an apéro – that great French tradition of a social pre-dinner drink and nibbles. (Or just a coffee, if you prefer.) I recommend Au Rêve (89 rue Caulaincourt), open all day since 1921. If it’s sunny and you can snag a spot outdoors, do so. If not, the bar inside is just as lovely. Though it’s closed on weekends, apéro during the week is fabulous at Poney Club (3 rue Eugène Carrière) – grab a glass or two of natural wine and small plates.”
L’Arpaon8pm: Get a table (or a spot at the bar) for dinner