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The All-Season Splendor of Nantucket’s Greydon House

The conveniently located boutique hotel—with enchanting interior design by Roman and Williams—offers an array of options for winter guests

David Graver

15 January 2024

Each summer, the population of Nantucket swells, roughly, to 80,000 individuals looking to bask in the island’s natural beauty and its quaint New England village environs. In the off-season, those numbers dip to 14,000. While some of the upscale shops, restaurants and bars shutter for those months—some accommodations, like Greydon House, not only remain open but schedule thoughtful programming to support guests and tap into the splendors of a destination that just so happens to be magnificent all year long. Greydon House, a boutique luxury property (that was once the home of a sea captain), embodies 20 distinct guest rooms and an intimate, elegant Venetian-inspired restaurant—all designed by Roman and Williams. Not only is the hotel conveniently located (a quick walk from the ferry), but it’s also a partner of Tradewind Aviation, which offers guests discounted private charters on their fleet of Pilatus PC-12 aircraft during the winter months.

To step into Greydon House is to understand the charm of Nantucket. An eclectic assemblage of design establishes a whimsical and enveloping environment. The warmth of natural wood complements nautically themed artworks and numerous patterned textiles. Roman and Williams struck a balance between classic and contemporary, cozy and elevated in the guest rooms and public spaces. But Greydon House is more than timeless design.

For the winter months, the hotel has looked both inward for packages and programming and across the island for partnerships on behalf of its guests—including a bike and helmet initiative with the Nantucket Chamber of Commerce. A “Long Stay Package” for bookings beyond 14 days includes unique perks like being able to check your phone at the front desk for a digital detox, and a suite of complimentary services. A collaboration with nearby Lavender Farm Wellness encompasses everything from cold plunges and massage therapy to juice cleanses and guided mindfulness meditation.

Whether heading to Nantucket to slow down or to seek out adventure in the often blustery wintertime weather, Greydon House is an enchanting place to return home.

Garison Beale—the General Manager of Greydon Hotel Group (which includes Greydon House and a series of guest houses like the standalone three-bedroom Craftsman-style property named, 52 Union, and the five-bedroom renovated farmhouse with a pool, 23 Madaket, as well as sister properties the Periwinkle Inn, Martin House Inn and Anchor Inn)—says, “I love the gray lady, our name for the fog that comes in during the off-season. It’s super-romantic and a lot of people get it. People write stories about it. For me, being on island in the off-season is so great. It’s when my wife and my boys get to explore for ourselves, hiking snow-covered paths. There are still great restaurants open, too. There’s nothing like going to Via Mare and sitting in front of the fireplace. There’s even a better sense of community than in the summer.”

In the off-season, Greydon House maintains the same standard of service—with friendly, helpful staff. “We make sure that the staff delivers the highest end level of service because we clearly have the highest end product and design,” Beale says. He adds, “We have general contractors walk into Greydon House all year long to see the bathrooms in guest rooms because they had clients stay with us and ask them to replicate what we’ve done. It’s exactly what they want in their house. We know we have a great design. And we know we have a great team that augments that.”

The food at Via Mare is as comforting as the atmosphere. The restaurant is operated by a team that’s well-established across Nantucket. “We’ve been with them since the beginning of 2019, the end of 2018,” Beale says. “They were already established on the island with Ventuno. They took over 21 Federal and established their own beloved Italian restaurant there. The chef and co-owner, Andrea Solimeo, is from Italy. All of his concepts come from Italy. They’re based on his family’s recipes. Their team is really clued into the island. They recently took over The Corner Table, the cafe across the street from Greydon House, too.”

“We love to have people in the off-season,” Beale says. “It’s obviously romantic but it’s a fun time to come visit, too. There are so many little things that people can do. In many ways, you can almost get more value in the off-season because everyone is willing to give you one-on-one attention.” With the ease of access through Tradewind Aviation, the opportunity to explore without summertime congestion and accommodation as pleasing and pleasant as Greydon House, the off-season opens Nantucket to travelers looking for something different than beach days.

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Word of Mouth: Madrid for Design Enthusiasts

Five standout locations in the Spanish city, from the Chamberí neighborhood to La Latina

Lucrezia Worthington

5 January 2024

Madrid has long had a diverse and flourishing art, design and architectural scene. Home to celebrated artists like Francisco Goya, Claudio Coello and Juan Gris, the city has contributed to centuries of artistic advancements. Today, it’s a dynamic melting pot of cultures and traditions in which talent showcases savoir-faire through their unique identities. From interior design studios that present a selection of local artisan works to unusual gastronomic concepts that combine art and cuisine and a store that brings Colombian traditions to the city, here are five spots to cross off your checklists when visiting. 

G69 

From the outside, G69 is almost underwhelming and yet there’s something that draws you in (perhaps it’s the little table at the entrance supporting a cluster of ceramics, lights and glassware). As you walk around the store, you begin to realize the amount of research that went into creating a sensorial journey of installations, lighting, sounds and film. G69 belongs to Géraldine and Cyril Boudarel, a couple from France whose background in the fashion industry allowed them to create an unparalleled temple for design. They stock everything from tableware to furniture, lighting and vases selected from European brands such as Olsson & Jensen, Studio Raw Material, La Belle Mèche and House Doctor to name a few. 

Altered by We Crave

Perhaps one of the most intriguing new concepts landing in Madrid, We Crave is a design studio located in Chueca that’s known for presenting installations, curating exhibitions and organizing gastronomic experiences that inspire creative energy. Altered, latest project by We Crave, is an airy, well lit monochromatic space set over two floors that’s open as an all-day-dining concept until 5PM. In the morning, choose your favorite coffee (alternative milks available) or perhaps try the cocoa kombucha or a slice of carrot cake for the sweet tooth. The “savory menu” is a more creative, gourmet approach to cuisine. The chef plays around with textures, techniques and pairings to exalt the flavors. Do not miss the Cep Consommé with steamed mushrooms, rice noodles and Shiitake oil, a dish that truly underscores the potential of this restaurant. 

Casa Josephine 

Iñigo Aragón and Pablo López Navarro established Casa Josephine studio in 2012, creating their first interior design project in the central valley of La Rioja: a five-room apartment with a relaxed, country feel, which later opened as a B&B. Fast forward two years and Casa Josephine arrives in Madrid, opening a charming space in the artsy Rastro neighborhood. Their vision is to shine a light on French, Italian and Spanish artisans, with pieces from the 19th and 20th century picked up in various open-air markets along the South of France. In their showroom, they display a collection of prestigious pieces such as a fantastic white limestone and wooden table made in Cordoba alongside engraved lamps, tapestries, bronze sculptures and many more which you may browse for inspiration or purchase for your homes. 

Casa en Vera

A very recent spot on the Madrid shopping scene, opening just over one month ago in the Chueca neighborhood, Casa en Vera is the true representation of Columbian craftsmanship. Marcela and Victor, a Colombian couple, wished to bring to the city a slice of their heritage, showcasing Tucurinca (aka original caribe chairs) in their store. Each piece is carefully designed and handcrafted by talented Colombian artisans who have passed their skills from generation to generation. The brand is based on a zero-waste approach, creating unique, one-piece designs with unused natural fibers and materials. If you’re in Madrid, take a browse in the store and if you’re looking for something specific, you can always request to customize your chosen model to ensure it coordinates harmoniously in your home. 

Lobito de Mar

Michelin-starred chef Dani García has made his way throughout the world—opening BiBo in Doha and London, Casa Dani in New York and Smoked Room in Dubai; but it is here in Madrid, in the Salamanca neighborhood, that Lobito de Mar brings the true essence of the chef’s cuisine through experimentation, quality ingredients and avant-garde design. Emphasizing his Andalusian roots and popular culinary traditions, chef García implements international techniques and contemporary visions upon the plate. Standout dishes include the Tuna Ribeye Carpaccio, Galician Style Octopus and the Fish & Seafood Dry Rice, an interpretation of paella. The journey begins from the moment you walk through the grand entrance and face the blue boiserie of the curved bar and on top, a glass container showcasing all the fresh fish and seafood available that day. The nautical theme is relayed throughout this urban chiringuito whose interiors were curated by Barcelona-based Astet Studio. It’s a two-story space imbued with sandy, neutral tones and textures, aquatic iconography and maritime references inspired by Malaga’s coastline. On the lower ground floor, walnut colored stairs lead you to the vaulted wine cellar and two private dining rooms; outdoors, there’s a heated terrace covered by an undulating blue fabric for al fresco dining.    

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A Labyrinth of Excitement at the Broadwick Soho

Touring the maximalist new hotel in London’s central Soho district

Lucrezia Worthington

25 December 2023

A love letter to the maximalist nature of London, the Broadwick Soho hotel has opened. It’s a space that enchants from the moment you walk through the pastel pink front door to enter the jazzed-up canvas of designer Martin Brudnizki, who says, “It has been especially touching to work on such an interesting and awe-inspiring project as our first complete hotel design in London.” Brudnizki says he intended to bring a destination to life where travelers and locals come “to make memories.”

This seductive hotel was conceived by Noel Hayden as an ode to his mother, Jackie, and father, Noel. With this in mind, Hayden brought a group of friends on board to help turn his vision into reality and create the ultimate, luxury hotel and neighborhood hangout in the city center—with nods to his family subtly integrated throughout the space. 

The interiors capture the wild energy of London’s most storied neighborhood in which extravagant and maximalist elements such as eclectic colors, groovy fabrics and dazzling finishes are reminiscent of the “disco-days of Studio 54, and the jazz bars of the swinging 1960s.” But Brudnizki also introduces a melting pot of made-in-Italy items and British eccentricity, “honoring the history of Soho, known as the Little Italy of the 1970s,” seamlessly interweaving Murano lighting, upholstered fabrics, Deruta ceramics and Carrara marble to playful fabrics, motifs and 350 pieces of British Modern Art distributed throughout the hotel. 

The Broadwick Soho is set out as a labyrinth in which each door leads to a new and exciting room: from the reception you wander through to Bar Jackie, a cafè with an all-day dining concept and excellent bomboloni (Italian cream-filled donuts). From here you walk through to Nook, a secret cove for hotel guests only—where you can take a seat on the glamorous, upholstered armchairs by the crackling fire and savor your favorite drink under the coffered tent ceiling. Tucked away in the gold, mirror-plated cabinet is a turntable with a selection of records purchased on the very street of the hotel. 

Take the stairs down to Dear Jackie, a new dimension of nighttime glamour. Seductive Murano chandeliers hang from the ceiling, red silk wraps around the walls and velvety booths nestle in intimate alcoves for a night of Italian extravaganza. Gourmands will love the Sheep’s Milk Ricotta Mezzaluna with zesty Sicilian lemon, but the Lemon Brûlée Tart with Mascarpone Ice cream will undoubtedly tantalize everyone’s taste buds.  

The intermediate floors are home to 57 rooms and suites, surprisingly sober compared to the communal areas that, as Brudnizki explains, “while still enchanting, provide a restorative stay.” Gentle, soothing wall colors coordinate with bespoke furnishing, soft velvets, retro floral carpets and the prettiest bedside table lamps. Many of those furnishings—such as the elephant mini bars in the suites, hand-crafted by artisans in Jaipur—are produced by talented craftspeople across the globe. But it’s the attention to detail everywhere that strikes guests—from a super-stocked mini bar (they even have supplements to tone down your hangover); an iPad for ordering room service; various charging docks for USB, USB-C, European and UK plugs; and the signature oud-y scent that lingers in the corridors and that’s placed by your pillow at turn down. 

One lift takes you to Flute, the rooftop bar with a wraparound outdoor terrace that looks across to the London Eye. Inside, captivating interiors are reminiscent of glamorous disco ambiance: animal-print upholstery, cork walls and mirrored ceilings united by an extravagant palm-frond carpet that wraps around the dazzling, back-lit white onyx bar top hat shimmers and reflects in the ceiling above. Here, bartenders mix up flamboyant cocktails which you can enjoy with a few inviting nibbles. It’s the literal peak of the Broadwick Soho’s pleasures.

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Word of Mouth: Porto’s Bolhão Neighborhood

From an impeccably designed hotel to the coolest concept store, here are the unmissable stops

Lucrezia Worthington

21 December 2023

Porto is a city respectful of tradition but there is a part of it that steps away from conventional expectations and seeps toward a spectrum of the unique, contemporary and international. The Bolhão neighborhood is precisely that, sandwiched between the artsy Cedofeita and Bonfim enclaves. As you walk through, gazing at the run-down façades that represent centuries of history, passing old-school bakeries selling traditional loaves, you’ll notice lots of builders working on properties such as the new Vincci Hotel or Roots Plant Based Cuisine. The following selections are unmissable stops in this up-and-coming neighborhood as well a bonus spot nearby for the art lovers. 

Village by Boa 

Boa Hotels is one of the latest groups on the hotel scene, founded by Lior Zach and George Vinter in 2022 with a vision to expand throughout Portugal and Spain. Village by Boa is the first outlet in this portfolio, launching a competitive model for accommodation seekers. Its contemporary design, carefully curated by Ingrid Aparicio of Bacana Studio, sets this place apart from the many. Aparicio implemented a neutral, earthly palette in combination with artisanal made-to-measure furnishings coupled with natural materials such as linen, rattan, rope and wood to recreate conceptual harmony within a homey environment. Furthermore, Village by Boa features an impeccable use of modern technology to ease check in, check out and daily requests through an online chat. It’s the ideal balance between hotel services (daily cleaning and breakfast delivered to your room upon request) with home comforts such as the ability to cook your meals in a fully stocked kitchen (you can even enjoy a movie night with homemade popcorn). 

Mercado de Bolhão 

The heart and soul of the neighborhood, this market is more than just for food. With its cutting edge design, the Mercado de Bolhão is a representation that tradition can be reinterpreted in a contemporary key. The ground floor is home to 79 food stalls ranging from fresh produce to local delicacies: dried Bacalhau stacked on the counters, the most beautifully packaged sardines displayed across the stalls and stand-out goat cheese, available to taste before you purchase. There are also plenty of ready-to-eat foods like tapas-style toasted breads topped with tomato and pimientos de Padron or fresh oysters and sea urchins from the fish counter which pair splendidly with a glass of white wine. Whether it’s a lunch-on-the-go, an afternoon snack, pre-dinner aperitif or a simple stroll around, the Mercado de Bolhão is a must visit. 

LOT Labels of Tomorrow 

Rua de José Falcão nr 144 is home to the ultimate concept store in Porto, a space that brings together independent brands and emerging artists. The project was created by The Feeting Room, originally from Lisbon (with a second outlet in Lóios, Porto), dedicated to sourcing new emerging talent on an international level. The place in itself has an eye-catching design in which each element inside is beautifully presented to represent each collection. Spread over two floors, the upstairs also houses a restaurant and cocktail bar named the Eleven Lab. 

A Certain Cafe 

Argentinian couple Agustina and Matias moved from Buenos Aires to Porto four years ago with the idea to open a cafe that represents their Italian heritage through their artistic background. It’s an all-day concept offering breakfasts, lunches and natural wines from 9AM to 5PM, all within an exciting, minimalistic space situated inside an ex-car garage. The design was curated by HAUS with a brief to create an environment that transcends a simple, local feel; the furnishings are secondhand with some preloved items that were once in the homes of renowned Portuguese architect Carvalho Araujo as well as a ’90s table and chairs you’d expect to find outside the cafes on Piazza San Marco in Venice. The cuisine respects the space: simple but high quality Portuguese ingredients with an Italian spin. A Certain Cafe also displays various objects available to purchase either from Agustina’s jewelry brand Ninfa or ceramics and glassware from local artisans as well as books and prints from independent artists.

Gruta 

A female powerhouse run restaurant situated in Porto’s bustling Santa Catarina Street, Gruta is tucked away in the quietude of a courtyard, far from outside noise. It was opened in 2021 by chef Rafaela Louzada who moved to Porto with her other half, João Ricardo Moraesback from Rio de Janeiro. The concept was to bring traditional dishes from her country and reinterpret them with local ingredients in a contemporary way, evidenced by the Fish Mouqueca. This Brazilian stew is served with codfish from Northern Portugal, artistically presented on a plate; it’s a colorful, joyful reflection of the chef herself, who sprinkles personality and creativity in each of her dishes. 

O Galeria 

Just on the outskirts of the Bolhão neighborhood, in Cedofeita (the artistic hub of the city), is O’ Galeria, a stop for creative enthusiasts. The gallerist Ema Ribeiro searches for talented, young artists from all around the world, gathering a vibrant collection of different styles to represent. Inside is a space dedicated to showcasing illustrations, drawings, books, zines and author pieces which, if you find one you love, you can also purchase.

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A Harmonious Blend of Antique and Contemporary Design at Nolinski Venice

This new hotel embodies sumptuous Venetian “art de vivre”

Lucrezia Worthington

7 December 2023

An intricate, original wrought-iron staircase with a red carpet leads you into the Nolinski Venice, which opened this summer following the brand’s first property in Paris. Nolinski belongs to the Evok Collection, a portfolio of design-forward hotels, and this latest opening in La Serenissima marks their first debut outside of France. The entrance to the property lands on Calle Larga XXII Marzo, the luxury boutique-lined street only five minutes away from the Venetian landmarks of Piazza San Marco and La Fenice opera house. The hotel is housed in the city’s former stock exchange building, carefully restored over the course of four years into a 43-roomed hotel by French-Italian duo Lecoadic-Scotto. The brief was to honor the building’s heritage and original architectural structure while incorporating the essence of its city in an eclectic, contemporary way. 

Overall, the design harmoniously blends art nouveau, liberty and modernism through a diverse mix and match of colors, furnishings and materials across the spaces. Venetian terrazzo flooring, rounded arched windows (that were introduced to the city during the Renaissance era), stucco marmorino walls and mid-twentieth century glass chandeliers are enhanced with sumptuous, velvety furnishings in burgundy, indigo and baby pink. 

The heart and soul of the hotel is the Library Bar, an intimate space enclosed by dark wood panelling and deep burgundy velvet curtains. Inside, four thousand books gently arranged across the walls leave a space for two frescoed canvases painted by Simon Buret, portraying his artistic interpretation of the city. Point your gaze to the sky and you’ll notice another magnificent, abstract painting covering the ceiling. The artist wished to represent a nautical theme; a fil-rouge that transpires throughout the hotel as a nod to the mythical sea creatures on the hotel’s façade. 

Adorning the convivial and private spaces is a collection of curious glass objects designed by Mariapia Bellis of Avem, a Murano-based glassware artisan who sought to find a “style that hugs the soul of Nolisnki.” Elements of the sea appear as paper weights and vases in a variety of colors, also available to purchase at the Nolinski store. 

Each room and suite differ architecturally, having carefully recuperated spaces without altering the original structure; one room even preserves a magnificent vaulted ceiling in the bedroom. Color schemes are a contrasting mix of gold, black, baby pink, ruby red and navy blue, reminiscent of the carnivalesque spirit of the city. Some rooms feature a separate living area containing a floor-to-ceiling bookcase inspired by Italian architect Franco Albini. It’s filled with a carefully curated selection of books, decorative objects and artwork.  

Interesting are the amenities, carefully studied to grant guests an elevated experience: a Dyson hair dryer with all its attachments; a briefcase containing all the stationary you could need; fluffy, comfortable slippers in a powdered blue and a silver trolley containing a hefty collection of spirits.

Breakfast is currently served in the former council chamber’s auditorium which, from next spring, will house the Palais Royal Restaurant. An imposing space with a seven-meter high ceiling from which an enormous ’50s chandelier drops down. Here, guests will be able to embark on a stellar gastronomic journey curated by chef Philip Chronopoulos, who currently leads the two Michelin-starred Palais Royal Restaurant in Paris. Rumor has it that the menu will take inspiration from his native Greece, embody French culinary techniques and incorporate Italian ingredients. 

Until then, guests will be able to savor mediterranean-style lunches and dinners at Il Caffè, the second culinary outlet located on the ground floor. Here, away from the hustle and bustle you can take a seat for a pleasant, alfresco meal or continue indoors, amid the coffered ceiling and gondola-inspired furnishings. Linguine with lobster, Milanese veal chop and salt crusted sea bass are a few of the signatures on the menu with a show-stopping gueridon service.  On the rooftop you’ll find a gold-mosaic covered plunge pool with a splendid 360-degree view of the city. If you arrive at the right time you may just see the silhouette of the San Marco bell tower reflecting in the water. 

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Word of Mouth: Art and Culture on the Faroe Islands

Our spectacular return to the small Nordic nation

Austa Somvichian-Clausen

29 November 2023

The Faroe Islands, a small Nordic nation located in between Iceland and Norway, is a destination at glorious odds with itself. Just a hundred years ago, roads and cars did not exist across its eighteen mountainous islets. Instead, its inhabitants, the Faroese, would opt to trek long distances across its fields and over mountains, paddle across its rivers and lakes, and ride on horseback to wherever they sought to go. Goods were transported around the islands by horse cart and ferry. 

Today, they possess the world’s only underground roundabout, lit at its core with brilliant shades of green and blue and decorated with an art installation by Trondur Patursson that depicts a ring of people holding hands. Part of a subsea tunnel network, it helps link the capital of Tórshavn with the second most populous island, Eysturoy. In downtown Tórshavn, visitors can now find unique restaurants and chic local boutiques, but can also stroll the centuries-old community of Reyni, with its grass roofs and black timber that stand like a screenshot in time. 

A country of only 50,000 people (and twice as many sheep), the Faroes feel both ancient and brand new, as younger generations discover ways to maintain a connection with their cultural roots while reaching toward the future and sharing their findings with interested visitors. As such, there are tons of ways to learn more about Faroese culture during a trip there, which we suggest you should carve out at least five days for, despite its small size. 

The islands are also a natural marvel, reminiscent of Iceland (pre-tourism boom), with otherworldly jagged peaks covered in moss, lonely stretches of black sand beach and more waterfalls than you can count, some snaking, some gushing their way across the landscape. Driving from one destination to another will more than likely inspire multiple reasons to stop, gawk and photograph, from consistent double rainbows to charming seaside towns. 

The National Gallery of the Faroe Islands

On the topic of a nation discovering itself, there is perhaps no greater example than in its quickly evolving arts scene. Visit their National Gallery, conveniently located in downtown Tórshavn, and you’ll see what we mean. The oldest documented examples of Faroese art are there, neo-biological illustration style paintings of birds, only from the late 1800s. 

A potential hypothesis for the nation’s late entrance to art, museum curator Anna Maria Dam Ziska informed us, is the level of isolation the Faroese experienced up until a century ago—making it difficult not only to find supplies for creating art, but also a community to share their creations with. It’s fascinating, considering the earliest direct evidence of human settlement on the Faroe Islands dates all the way back to the arrival of the Vikings in around AD 800, and recent studies suggest even earlier habitation is distinctly possible. 

Regardless, over the past several decades, artists on the Faroe Islands have finally begun to flourish—finding their own artistic voices that are worth a listen. Unencumbered by the presence of a “traditional” style of painting there, many have taken their own artistic liberties with surprisingly bright colors to depict the natural landscapes and wonders of the Faroe Islands. Many Faroese artists are especially inspired by the sea, which a large bulk of the country makes their living off from fishing and whaling. 

One particular artist, Sigrun Gunnarsdóttir, stands out. Combining surprisingly quirky and sentimental elements of religious iconography, from tiny little birds painted randomly in the corner of her mother’s living room to an imagined church sitting at the base of the Faroe Islands’ largest mountain, which her studio looks onto and inspires many of her most popular works. Another Faroese industry currently finding its footing, filmmaking, recently saw the exciting release of a Wes Anderson-esque documentary about Gunnarsdóttir. Called Heartist, the charming feature just claimed the Best International Documentary Award at the Los Angeles Documentary Film Festival. 

Shop and Dine in Downtown Tórshavn

The capital city of Tórshavn is oozing with charm and interest, both ancient and modern. Before shopping, make sure to grab a coffee and walk the docks, making your way through the narrow cobblestone streets of historic á Reyni. The oldest neighborhood in the city, its black-tarred wooden houses with grass roofs date back to the 14th century. Past Reyn, walk over to the rocky outcrop between two harbors known as Tinganes. The original place of gathering for the Viking parliament, you can still spot old stone etchings like a Viking sundial. 

Next, stroll over to Guðrun & Guðrun, a local designer known for their creative uses of Faroese wool. Not the softest variety of wool, breed more for strength and weather resistance, Guðrun & Guðrun takes a unique approach of combining it with other varieties of wool and alpaca, and using it to add creative textural touches to jumpers and more. A women-owned and operated shop (founded by two women named Guðrun), their designs shot to fame after being worn in the hit Danish drama The Killing. 

Art lovers will also want to make sure to pay a visit to Steinprent, a gallery and lithographic studio located on the water by the boat docks. Downstairs, find paintings and prints by local artists, then head upstairs to witness the process of stone lithography. Each print at Steinprent is rolled by hand on limestone, making them the perfect Faroese souvenir. 

Attend a Music Festival in the Homes of Locals (HOYMA) 

Another fascinating tenet of Faroese culture is the way their national music scene is quickly evolving. Prior to the introduction of roads on the island, the only documented Faroese music that existed was in the form of ballads—long, mournful, heartfelt ballads. They sung these ballads, and spoken word music, while dancing the “chain dance,” their national dance that consists of a two-then-one step, linking arms in a circle all the while. This dance and its accompanying ballads are intrinsic to Faroese culture, serving as a time capsule for its native language, history and myth. 

It wasn’t until a legal import embargo was lifted in 1856 that musical instruments were introduced into the country, and since then the Faroese have been leaning into the rhythm. A visit to the music center in downtown Tórshavn, called Tutl, will likely yield several local vinyl records to purchase, but perhaps also a small show by a local band or musician, depending on your timing. While in the shop, this author listened to a pianist and bass duo that also introduced us to Faroese “grotto music”—concerts played from inside sea caves around the island. Without an official concert hall to perform in, locals have gotten extremely creative about their venues.

Every autumn, for instance, they put on a unique music festival called HOYMA, and are currently expanding their plans to have smaller HOYMA performances throughout the year. A tongue-in-cheek phonetic spelling of the Faroese word for “home,” HOYMA is a one-day festival that takes place entirely in local homes. Families open their doors to artists who play unplugged musical sets in their living rooms, and pass around, to new guests and family alike, a single cup and bottle of akvavit—a variation of schnapps that tastes like a less jarring version of ouzo. Fill the small cup and drink as much as you’d like before passing both on to the next person. Many homes will also put out platters of food, from cured salmon toasts to small bowls of boiled potatoes and cod, which you can top with a sauce made from the fermented bowels of a sheep.

See (and hike to) Stunning Waterfalls 

One of the most striking features of the Faroese landscape is its many waterfalls, and luckily you won’t have to look for long to find them. In fact, you’ll see some of them from the window of your plane as you taxi at the airport upon arrival. Scattered across the country, though, are some truly mind boggling ones, which somehow put the other one thousand waterfalls to shame. One is Múlafossur, which you don’t have to drive up close to for the best view. 

Instead, park before the entrance to the town of Gásadalurand and walk down a slightly hidden path that yields a viewpoint from across the waterfall—one that is perhaps becoming most synonymous with the Faroe Islands’ unique natural beauty. The iconic foss sprays its way down into the ocean, surrounded on both sides by jagged coastal cliff. The small, secluded village of Gásadaluron appears in the background. 

Also gorgeous is the multi-tiered Fossa, which you can park nearly right in front of and walk all the way up to, if your shoes provide you enough traction to not slip on the wet rocks leading up to it. Either way, Staring up at the enormous waterfall is a great photo moment, and also one that simply makes you feel small in a very cool way. Water, falling from the sky and the rocks, splashing up in foamy waves against the islands’ shores, is superlatively intrinsic to Faroese culture. 

Taste Subsea Vodka at the Faer Isles Distillery

See previous statement about the Faroese connection to water, then leave it to them to produce the world’s first subsea vodka, distilled using fresh water found from a thousand-year-old source below the seabed. The result is a uniquely flavorful vodka with a rounded mouthfeel meant for sipping rather than shooting down. It helps that distilled seaweed was also added during the process, lending a unique umami. 

That’s just one product by Faer Isles Distillery, which co-founder Dánial Hoydal tells us was just finally approved to sell their own bottles at their tasting room as of this week (they launched their first products in 2021)—another striking example of the quickly evolving culture and society on the islands. Up until a few years ago, distilling spirits of any kind was actually banned on the island entirely. Now, Faer Isles has its own akvavit and dry gin in addition to the Subsea vodka, and even has their first Faroese whiskey in the works. 

Driving us down the road to their barrel house, also still in the works, Hoydal tells us excitedly about other releases they are working on, including a gin that spotlights a “truffle seaweed,” in addition to the whiskey that they plan to bottle in 2026. The half-finished barrel house sits on the edge of a dramatic cliff—with barrels overlooking a precarious drop into the sea as wind whips around the open industrial room. When asked whether this unfinished environment might affect the final product, Hoydal says, “I hope so.” 

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Embracing the Mediterranean Lifestyle at Zel Mallorca

A fiesta and siesta concept overlooking the splendors of Palmanova Beach

Lucrezia Worthington

21 November 2023

At Zel Mallorca, the sun rises quite literally in front of your bedroom window as your gaze passes rows of sail boats and yachts docked overnight to watch the same spectacle. It’s autumn so the sun rises at eight o’clock, the perfect time to head out on a morning run or to slowly sip coffee from your balcony while everything turns golden. 

Mallorca is the first of the Zel Hotels portfolio, fruit of a collaboration between tennis superstar and two-time Olympic gold medalist Rafael Nadal and Melía International. This hideaway on Palmanova Beach embraces a “fiesta and siesta” concept essential to the slow, Mediterranean lifestyle while highlighting the importance of health and wellbeing. This has been translated into various aspects throughout the hotel both visually and experientially. 

The look and feel of Zel Mallorca is very warm, organic, comforting, almost as if you’re a guest in a friend’s home. It was Álvaro and Adriana Sans of ASAH Studio who took to heart the project in renovating and redesigning the space. “Our culture and our Mediterranean roots inspired us,” says Adriana. “The space is filled with wood, natural fabrics and soft colors related to water: this is how we make the sea present in all spaces, which is what guests look for in the Mediterranean.” 

The downstairs lounge was conceived as a convivial patio made up of various seating areas and large wooden tables to socialise, work, browse around the concept store or a matcha latte or coffee paired with a slice of carrot cake from the café. This space was inspired by the open floor plan of Mediterranean homes, present in their culture since the ancient Greeks. 

Recurring elements such as water, nature and Majorcan craftsmanship are the fil rouge that unite all the spaces at Zel, starting with the Patio, continuing to the rooms and suites, passing through the spa and ending Beso Beach Restaurant. This is a breezy, beachfront chiringuito initially born in Formentera and adopted here at Zel. The epitome of beachside relaxation among banana palms, rattan lighting and wooden tables combined with a great km0 gastronomic proposal: Mediterranean flair on Basque recipes. Don’t miss the firewood octopus or the josper grilled aubergine, best enjoyed with a glass of Cava. 

Besides cozying up on the sofas and eating, which tend to be a big part of the slow-travel agenda, there is an underlying dedication to fitness and wellbeing. A twenty-four hour gym with a stack of protein bars and high-end equipment, a pop-up space that hosts pilates (almost daily) and weekly barré classes with Casa Barré, running clubs followed by healthy brunches and occasional retreats curated by Health Coach Candela Perez. 

In addition, Zel Mallorca houses a spa, beautifully designed with a neutral palette providing the ultimate white canvas for relaxation. Treatments and massages are accompanied by the sound of soft tunes and invigorating scents of essential oils, all the while you indulge in 50 minutes of calm.  If you seek sandy, barefoot tranquility where you open your curtains to find shimmering waters, that is precisely what you get find here.

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Cruising the Nile Aboard the Viking Aton

The line’s newest Nile cruise ship is the third in their industry-leading class

Evan Orensten

13 November 2023

The myth of the Nile looms large and cruising it to see awe-inspiring artifacts of thousands of years of Egyptian civilization and the river’s lush banks is a truly special opportunity, especially when you are onboard one of Viking River Cruises newest purpose built ships. We had the opportunity to join the Viking Aton‘s inaugural cruise, along with Tor Hagan, the line’s founder and Chairman, and Richard Riveire of Rottet Studio, who has led the design of most of the line’s river and ocean cruise ships.

River cruise ships are typically much smaller than ocean cruise ships, and are purpose built for the river or rivers they will serve in a specific area—such as the Mississippi in the US, the Rhone in Europe, and the Nile in Egypt (Viking offers cruises in these and many other areas). Each river’s depth, geology and physical limitations, such as the length and size of its channels and locks influences aspects of a ship’s design. Viking’s newest class of Nile cruise ships—which includes the Osiris, Hathor and now the Aton—are 236 feet (80 meters) long and house 48 crew members and up to 82 passengers in the ship’s 41 rooms. These ships are the nicest on the Nile.

If you’ve ever been to Las Vegas, Macau, the UAE or on a large cruise ship you’ve likely experienced what is often referred to as “entertainment architecture,” with grand design gestures that shock and awe and are made for selfie sharing moments. The hotel, or ship is often one of the spectacles of your visit. Upon entering the Aton the first thing you notice is the absence of that. “We didn’t do entertainment architecture here. To me, it’s just exhausting. If you’re going out and enjoying incredible cities and views every day and there is always something new out the window, the last thing you want to come home to is all the stuff going on—the pizzazz, the jazz hands, all the buzz. It’s important [on a Viking river cruise] to come home to something that feels comfortable; it’s your house, it’s your home” Riveire shares.

The ship has a casual chic, familiar vibe. It’s intended to be a sophisticated, comfortable backdrop that’s more residential in its design than theatrical. “You have plenty of surprise and delight moments,” Riveire adds, “but they tend to be more subtle.” Stone slabs run vertically through the three story central atrium to both lengthen and connect the floors and turquoise wooden tiles artfully treat the wall alongside the floating staircase—all elements that create a sense of openness which is invaluable given the ship’s lower ceiling heights. The Aton and its sister ships represent the fourth generation of the line’s river ship designs, and the intent is for them to feel similar, not different from one another. In fact, this comes in quite handy when the geography or conditions of a certain river may mean that you get off of one ship and onto an identical one on the other side of the impasse—so having ships that are the same makes a lot of sense.

In Egypt, Viking’s cruise programs start with a few days in Cairo, usually in a hotel. This makes sense given all that there is to see in the city—the grand pyramids of Giza, the Sphinx, and the city’s many museums, including the enormous new GEM (Grand Egyptian Museum), opening by early 2024 and which we were fortunate enough to get a sneak peak at. From Cairo guests fly south to board the ship in Luxor or Aswan and cruise up and down the Nile visiting several ports.

Your expert and talented guides travel with you from the start to end of your program, whether on land or onboard the ship, and they help translate the importance of all that surrounds you as you navigate from one place of note to another, escorting you through VIP entrances and special access whenever possible. On this size ship and this location, it’s a big help having close access to your guides while soaking it all in and understanding the thousands of years of history you’re seeing.

When on board the ship you’ll spend most of your time on one of the three decks with rooms, including the Upper deck which has the main restaurant, as well as the Pool and Sun decks, which have a more casual dining area and lounge as well as outdoor space. It wouldn’t be a cruise without plenty of delicious food and drink options, and the staff goes out of the way to ensure that you’re taken care of. The Pool deck features a small rectangular pool at the rear of the ship, where you can sit on a bench in the pool, looking through a full-length acrylic wall at the Nile’s majesty. Even the ship’s small boutique has a lot of surprisingly tasteful, locally created objects on offer.

The rooms—and the ship in general—have a Scandinavian flair, with light wood, simple yet sophisticated materials and details that really do help you feel at home. Viking is known for its onboard library and bookshelves in its room—tailored for each cruise location—which add another surprise and delight moment. The new Nile class ships offer standard, veranda and suite rooms, so there’s something to suit your needs and budget.

View all Egyptian cruise offerings here, and the Aton’s here (currently the 12 day Pharaohs and Pyramids trip, from Cairo (three nights in a hotel) then a quick flight to Luxor, where you board the Aton and continue on to Qena, Aswan, Edfu before returning to Cairo for another night. Visit Viking to see pricing for the specific cruise and timing options.

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Word of Mouth: Low Impact Travel in Copenhagen

More and more travelers are making intentional choices to explore the world by orchestrating ideal itineraries that minimize impact on the environment

Julie Wolfson

27 October 2023

Denmark’s capital city offers accessible options for traveling with a light footprint. Known for historic castles near innovative contemporary architecture, a vibrant art and design community, and culinary offerings from some of the world’s most well-known fine dining restaurants, the storybook streets and waterways of Copenhagen often feel idyllic. The air is fresh. The water is clean (you can swim in the public harbor baths). Communal meals are popular, as are community gatherings that share resources at places like Rodder in Nordvest and Absalon in Vesterbro. 

To travel to Copenhagen, consider airlines that offer carbon offsets for the journey. SAS provides direct flights from NYC and Los Angeles with the option to buy biofuel by booking with the Go Smart Bio. SAS is working toward a goal of zero CO2 emissions by 2025 (and a mission to fly planes fully powered by electricity). After landing in Copenhagen, visitors are provided with many low impact travel options. The city transportation system includes many electric buses and taxis, metro trains, walkable streets and accessible bike lanes. The following suggestions align with these values, as well.

Coco Hotel

Like many accommodations in Copenhagen, Coco Hotel’s sustainability efforts are multifaceted. The hotel runs on solar energy. For each hotel room booking, they donate one tree per night to the Eden Reforestation Project. While staying at the hotel they follow the Green Key Certification encouraging participation in their Environmental Policy to wash sheets and towels only when necessary and encouraging guests to drink Copenhagen’s very clean tap water. A card in the room read “Please drink the water. Copenhagen tap water is among the World’s best, please enjoy!” Pack a reusable bottle or pick up one at the many cafes and shops and skip single use bottles while walking, biking and boating around the city. To make a different low impact accommodation choice throughout the city, Visit Copenhagen offers this list of more than 20 eco-certified hotels in the city. Several historic buildings have also been upcycled into hotels. The repurposing of these existing structures preserves the building’s character while reducing the environmental impact of new construction.

Ark 

For first time visitors, a meal at Ark begins with a discussion of philosophy. Ark is the vision of founder Jason Renwick and creative director Jenia Nelisova, and focuses on sustainability with the goal to have a positive impact. This mission is reflected in the locally sourced Danish design—from furniture and décor to ceramics by Hannah Blackall-Smith of Blacksmith Ceramics. Executive chef Brett Lavender and his team serve seasonal and foraged ingredients with a focus on mushrooms grown nearby (by Kyle Cometta at Funga Farm). They serve biodynamic and natural wines. With the Ark menu, Lavender makes every effort possible to employ zero waste practices in the kitchen and throughout every aspect of the service; the menu focuses on plant-based ingredients to meet these goals. What follows is the most beautiful presentation of an elegant and delicious fine dining menu with thoughtful wine pairings or inspired non-alcohol offerings. This is the place that a locally grown mushroom is elevated into an umami-laden delicacy. Even the bread course with brioche served with onion and pepper accompaniments feels transformative. Clever interpretations of dishes that traditionally have seafood or egg come in luscious variations like a “chawanmushi,” made with corn and coffee. All of this effort and artistry has earned them a Green Michelin star for restaurants focused on sustainable gastronomy. 

Green Kayak

With beautiful sites throughout the city, seeing Copenhagen by boat provides some of the best views. In Denmark and six other countries, the environmental NGO Green Kayak offers free kayaks to explore the waterways. Volunteering while on vacation has also gained popularity. The free kayaks are available to anyone who agrees to pick up any trash they see along the way to help spread the message of the problem of environmental pollution. Green Kayak participants are also asked to share the experience on social media. In Copenhagen, even in the waters that appear pristine, pieces of garbage accumulate and the Green Kayak program helps to clean them. Seeing the city from the water is one of the best views of the historic and contemporary architecture. Paddling a Green Kayak may evoke some cheers from the walkways and bridges as the locals are well aware of how the program has helped keep their city clean. Tobias Weber-Andersen, founder of Green Kayak says, “You get some fresh air and exercise, and do something good for the environment. The trash is taken to the incinerator and burned and transformed into energy.”

Kødbyens Fiskebar

Located in the Meatpacking District near Prolog Coffee and Hart Bageri, restaurant Kødbyens Fiskebar is a don’t miss for their inventive menu of sustainable seafood with local grown and foraged produce. Head chef Jamie Lee focuses on cooking seafood from what he refers to as unique sustainable fishing communities. He and his team handpick shellfish for peak flavor. Vegetables and herbs are from organic farms or foraged around Copenhagen. Dishes bring together fascinating ingredient combinations—like squid, radish, lemon verbena and chicken wing finished with smoked tuna heart, or roasted monkfish dusted with koji and dried shrimp served with pickled butternut squash, stewed kale and lovage finished with a sauce of roasted almonds split with sea buckthorn oil. Lee grills horse mackerel over coal and serves it with gooseberry butter. House-made bread comes with a side of savory seaweed butter. For many dishes, the team sources wild fish caught from small boats in the afternoon, making their menu offerings the definition of fresh in a bustling restaurant where everyone has a glass of wine in hand and a smile on their face. 

Unesco World Capital of Architecture

Hop on a bike, boat, bus or walk to discover why Copenhagen has been nominated as a Unesco World Capital of Architecture. This three-year designation as the World Capital of Architecture will feature hundreds of events through 2026. Explore some of the city’s most sustainable buildings, and neighborhoods like Nordhavn. Visit the Design Museum Danmark. From the water, take in views of the Danish Architecture Center with exhibitions about Danish design and the Royal Library and Black Diamond Building with the National  Museum of Photography in the basement. With a focus on human-centered architecture and urban planning, Copenhagen serves as an ideal case study for achieving many UN goals. beCopenhagen offers half-day and full-day bike tours to explore the city, where you can learn how urban design and architectural solutions are being implemented to improve the daily life for everyone in Copenhagen. 

A Guide to Japan’s 1,000 Kilometer Michinoku Coastal Trail

Accessible by Japan’s ever-reliable train system (and within reach of Tokyo by bullet train), the Michinoku Coastal Trail stretches for more than 1,000 kilometers along the northern coast of Honshu. After years of development, the trail officially opened in 2019. It passes through traditional villages and modern cities, granting day hikers and thru-hikers alike scenic vantage points, natural hot springs, delicious food destinations and all types of accommodation (including campgrounds, ryokans and hotels). To learn more about its creation and how to traverse it successfully, head over to Field Mag.