An insider's guide to exploring Grenada as a solo Black woman

From the local hangouts to the most indulgent places to stay on this tiny tropical island
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I’ll be honest: I didn’t initially understand the allure of Grenada over other Caribbean destinations. But former work with the Tourism Authority through Melanin Travel, and conversations with Grenadian friends left me with a few impressions. First, Grenada is committed to promoting tourism to the African diaspora, which is a plus in my book. Second, Grenadians are fiercely patriotic. From notable figures to everyday citizens, they proudly represent the Spice Isle. When I praised their cuisine, a Grenadian friend quickly corrected me, “It’s not just the food. Everything about Grenada is amazing.” Inspired and intrigued by their pride, I decided it was time to find out what makes this island special in their eyes.

Mt Carmel FallsVivienne Dovi

Grenada’s charm lies in its natural beauty, history and culture. I saw an array of sculptures representing Grenadian culture and folklore while snorkelling at the Underwater Sculpture Park, adding a unique twist to the experience. It was my first time snorkelling in crystal-clear waters without a life jacket, a testament to how safe I felt with the team. They initially thought I was of Grenadian heritage and took extra care of me.

Beyond water activities, Grenada made me appreciate horticulture. Every person I engaged with preferred to take the natural route of agriculture and sustainable practices. I experienced this through flavourful dishes from local vendors on the day-long Spice Foodie Tour, as well as during a visit to Mount Pernassus, a traditional spice plantation. Touring a Grenadian-owned plantation with other Black guests while discussing African influences on health traditions was refreshing – a striking contrast to avoiding plantations in the Caribbean due to their tainted history.

I also quickly understood why it’s called the Spice Isle: spices are ever-present, especially nutmeg, which appears on the flag. Spices are also found in the island’s rum and chocolate, infused with coconut milk, cinnamon, ginger and more, which I tasted during my tree-to-bar tour at Belmont Estate.

Views from Welcome StoneVivienne Dovi

While the watersports, cuisine and historical sites remain a draw, what makes Grenada stand out is the warmth and friendliness of its people. Their pride in their heritage was palpable, and they were eager to share their stories and traditions with me. A memorable moment was a conversation with a tour guide who described his block, where his community gathers weekly to talk and cook. After describing how instrumental his block was in his formative years, I asked him to take me there. He didn’t hesitate to make a detour. Within seconds of arriving, I was warmly welcomed into their space with a rum shot, extra drinks and lunch. It felt like a day spent learning about community spirit with my uncles. While they cooked, they shared Grenadian practices, and I shared Nigerian ones. It was pleasantly surprising to discover how much Grenadians love Nigeria; Nollywood movies played in bars, and people showed genuine interest in my heritage while telling me Nigerians are their favourite group of people.

Exploring GrenadaVivienne Dovi

At only 133 square miles, I still don’t feel like I’ve scratched the surface of Grenada. The island hasn’t been spoiled by major tourism and doesn’t feel overly commercialised. They were excited to share their country and I was happy to oblige.

Leaving was hard. Now, I have set my sights on returning next year for the annual Spicemas Carnival in August and experiencing Jab Jab culture, a living tribute to the island's history and African lineage. I’m excited to uncover more similarities between us for years to come.

Where to stay in Grenada

Calabash HotelVivienne Dovi

Calabash Hotel

An elegant, family-run boutique hotel with attentive hospitality. With only 30 suites, you’ll receive personalised service from every staff member as you stroll through their lush and peaceful gardens. Don’t miss dining at their open-air Beach Club restaurant and, if you time it right, enjoy a steel band performance during dinner.

Six Senses La Sagesse GrenadaVivienne Dovi

Six Senses La Sagesse

The Caribbean debut of Six Senses offers eco-friendly realness with the relaxed island beach vibe of the island. Guests can participate in tailored food, drink, spa and sleep programmes to meet their wellness goals, which is a lovely addition to their private plunge pools and patios spread across 38 acres.

Friday RestaurantVivienne Dovi

Where to eat in Grenada

Azzurro

The swanky beachfront restaurant at Silversands Beach House. Try the whipped potato cod fish with carasau and red bell pepper sauce, followed by a chocolate ganache tart with poached pear and vanilla ice cream. While the drinks menu is impressive, tell the bartender your preferences and be wowed by their creations.

Address: Silversands Beach House, Grand Anse Main Road, St. George Grenada
Website: silversandscollection.com

Street Food Wednesdays

Held weekly at Dodgy Dock Restaurant, featuring local cuisine and lively performances. Exchange cash for tokens to buy food from various vendors. Arrive early for a front-row seat to the performances, but enjoy the DJ’s music into the night.

Address: Dodgy Dock Restaurant Grenada, True Blue, St George's, Grenada
Website: truebluebay.com

Friday Restaurant & Bar

You’ll start with a customary under-the-counter rum shot, marinated with spices for over a year. Then you’ll enjoy a traditional breakfast including doughy bakes, sweet plantain, fishcakes, and cocoa tea.

Address: Friday Restaurant & Bar, Quazye Road, Calliste, St. George's Grenada

Carriacou island in GrenadaVivienne Dovi

Things to do in Grenada

Spice Foodie Tour

This full-day tour explores various locations around the island, introducing you to local dishes and snacks. The guides integrate you into the community whenever possible. The itinerary varies, so check their Instagram for updates, but each tour promises a wonderful experience.

Website: realgrenadiantours.com; instagram.com

Underwater Sculpture Park

Explore over 70 underwater sculptures by snorkelling, diving, or sailing on a glass-bottom boat. These sculptures reflect Grenadian folklore and culture, acting as manmade coral reefs. You’ll also visit Flamingo Bay to witness stunning marine life.

Website: underwatersculpture.com

Tree-to-Bar Tour at Belmont Estate

Learn about the chocolate-making process, from bean fermentation to chocolate production to sampling. Make a day of it with the Estate’s three-course lunch before the tour.

Website: belmontestategrenada.com