Review: Palmaïa, The House of Aïa spa review

Set the scene
Snaking along Mexico’s sun-baked Caribbean coast, Palmaïa is flanked on one side by ocean and, on the other, dense jungle. The property’s friendly, dip-in, dip-out approach to wellness attracts a mixed, non-judgemental bunch: active couples who want to break a sweat before they wallow in the pool, laid-back families testing out the paddleboards, and solo travellers on last-ditch pilgrimages to stave off corporate burnout. The vibe is sunny, smiley and optimistic. You’ll find no gut-scouring detox regimes or invasive medical procedures here. 

What's the backstory?
Mykonos-born owner and founder Alex Ferri is a well-travelled chap, having worked for his family’s company Sandos Hotels & Resorts for years, implementing sustainability policies and spending his downtime at Burning Man. During stints in Thailand, the Maldives and Africa he was inspired by the practices of ancient cultures and their connection to the natural world – and so he created The House of Aïa at Palmaïa, a progressive wellness concept hinged upon that very connection. Ceremonies, rituals and various healing sessions are run by experienced practitioners who have all lived within the communities from which their practises are borrowed, and there really is something for everybody, whether that’s intense soul purification sessions with the shaman or beginners’ yoga by the beach. 

What’s the wellness concept?
Earthy, gentle and inspired by nature. There’s a deep respect for Mayan tradition and spiritual beliefs here, but it never feels pushy or performative; instead, guests are welcomed with open arms and thrown third-eye-first into ancient practices and rituals. Nomadic Guides act as one-on-one concierges for guests, booking restaurant tables, answering queries and facilitating requests. 

The jewel in Palmaïa’s crown, however, is its Architects of Life Programme, a timetable of activities from the spiritual to the intensely active. Mornings begin with sunrise pranayama breathwork sessions, followed by a glut of experiences which anyone can wander up to and join: gong baths, cacao ceremonies, grin-your-way-through-it ancestral dance classes and smoky soul purification rituals. Visiting master guides and healers also offer more leftfield, pop-up events, from cosmic gong sessions to rebirthing transformations – for those who find the transpersonal astrology in the main programme too pedestrian.

What are the signature treatments?
Treatments at the jungle-cloaked Atlantis spa command an extra cost, but the experience far outweighs the expense. Sessions begin with powerful cenote-side ceremonies asking the jungle spirits for their permission to enter and connect with the land. Tree resin is burnt, conch shells are sounded and Mayan drums are beaten as ancestors are called upon to provide guidance and wisdom. The most popular treatments – The Embrace of the Ancient Mother and Aïa Essence – involve warmed volcanic ‘granny stones’, quartz crystals and traditional massage techniques. More intense, however, are the three-hour-long temazcal ceremonies – gruelling but rewarding sweat lodge-style sessions held in an (occasionally claustrophobic) cement hut, where fire-baked stones are steamed, herbs are burnt and guests are guided through chants, meditations and visions in order to detoxify the body and soul.  

Which therapist should I book?
Sound healer René Najera aligns most fittingly with Palmaïa’s focus on progressive wellness, guiding guests through otherworldly harmonic singing and gut-wobbling Tibetan bowl sessions. Reiki master Ruben is reassuring and insightful, and sceptics should find his no-nonsense approach to energy and healing quite refreshing. Massage therapist Norma also has a special knack for finding sites of pain in the body and gently manipulating them away. 

What makes it different?
Palmaïa operates a ‘gifting philosophy’, an impressive and generous high-end all-inclusive offering. In fact, you can’t stroll five metres without finding something intriguing to plunder: beach-side freezers stuffed with kombucha and craft beer, vegan taco trucks and health-focussed cafes where power shots and cold-pressed juices are up for grabs all day. 

This take-what-you-want-from-it approach lends a flexibility and autonomy that can be rare to find in more discerning retreats, meaning mixed groups, couples with opposing approaches to holidays, and those with varying interests, can find a satisfying balance. Nothing is forced here, nothing is mandatory, and no one bats an eyelid at those who forgo the spirulina and activated charcoal to knock back margaritas at the pool all day. Solo female travellers, in particular, will feel cared for and safe. 

What else do they offer? 
Food at the four restaurants – Ume, Lek, Su Casa and Mar de Olivo – is predominantly plant-based (the watermelon ‘tuna’ is a feat of near-sorcery). Gluten free options are plentiful but fresh fish, egg and other protein options are available to any who want them. Cooking classes are available for those desiring to brush up on overnight oats, protein balls and the like.

Paddleboards and kayaks are free to use but there’s a charge if you want a guide. Excursions to archaeological ruins, cenotes and local Mayan communities can be booked through the Nomadic Guides. 

There’s also a well-stocked gym, a kids club and a hair and beauty salon on site. 

Where do you stay? 
All 234 rooms have balconies facing the ocean, where pelicans divebomb the water and the sunrise wobbles up from the horizon each morning. In-the-thick-of-it swim-up pool suites are handy (but you do sacrifice that ocean view), while meditation suites come with dedicated rooms for yoga and relaxation for those who want to elevate their practise. 

The in-room aesthetic is bohemian yet modern, everything fringed with macramé, with lots of natural stone and rough-hewn mahogany. Some of the most beautiful spaces, however, are actually the least frequented – pretty co-working spots hanging with bamboo lamp shades and a tucked away library in the glass-fronted Atlas Club, where it’s possible to spend a peaceful afternoon without seeing another soul. 

Anything else to mention?
Bikes are freely available on the property. You may need one to rush from one activity to the other, as there’s currently no buffer time built in between sessions. (If you really don’t want to arrive late, ask your Nomadic Guide to book you a golf cart). 

Final word
For those seeking true tranquillity, a pre-dawn stroll along the jungle treeline is a must. With no one else around and all the lights turned off, you’ll be the sole audience member to a unique orchestra; the trill of birds, monkeys and insects awakening providing the most transcendental experience of all. 

Healing Holidays (healingholidays.com/condenast) can arrange a five-night all-inclusive stay from £2,039pp, including transfers. Exclusive offer: enjoy complimentary airport transfers when you book a stay of seven nights or more.