Paris Olympics area guide: what to do, where to eat and where to drink in Saint-Denis and Saint-Ouen

The first signs of gentrification are starting to creep into northern Paris. There are a smattering of dogs the size of cats and delicatessens with candy-coloured awnings, but you can still grab coffee for a euro. Home to large markets and diverse communities, Saint-Denis and Saint-Ouen are busy regardless of whether a major sporting event is taking place or not. All life spills out of terrasses and into the streets in a cacophony of noise and colour.

Skip the depressing concrete spider’s web of flyovers directly around the Stade de France. A 20-minute walk north takes you to Saint-Denis, a mix of community cafés, African and Middle Eastern restaurants and the elaborate tombs of France’s former royals in the Saint-Denis Basilica. Twenty minutes southwest and you’re in Saint-Ouen, whose pleasing absence of high-rise buildings gives it the feeling of a village that’s been absorbed into the city (which indeed it was).

Here's where to go and what to see, all a stone’s throw from the Stade de France.

The best things to do in Saint-Ouen and Saint-Denis

Basilica of Saint-Denis

Half of the façade may still be covered by scaffolding (likely to remain in place for several more years), but the treasures are inside. All but three of France’s monarchs since the 10th century are buried here, as is the ‘first’ king of France, Clovis I. The main basilica is free to access, but entry to the crypt and tombs costs €11. Don’t forget to look up; the stained glass (much of which dates from the 12th century) is spectacular.

Address: Basilica of Saint-Denis, 1 Rue de la Légion d'Honneur, 93200 Saint-Denis
Website: saint-denis-basilique.fr

Paul Eluard Museum of Art and History

In a handsome 17th-century monastery, the Musée d’art et Histoire Paul Eluard focuses on archaeology from the Gallo-Roman period to late Mediaeval times. An entire room is dedicated to Saint-Denis’ industrial history, largely told through paintings and artefacts. The ‘five senses’ garden is a particular highlight. The museum is open Wednesday through Monday; entry €5.

Address: Musée d'art et d'histoire Paul Eluard, 22 bis Rue Gabriel Péri, 93200 Saint-Denis
Website: musee-saint-denis.com

Saint-Ouen’s Flea Market

Said to be the world’s largest antique market, the shop windows at Les Puces glitter with everything gold – clocks, vases, chandeliers. In the covered markets, a different world entirely awaits, one where blasting music, knock-off trainers and handbags vie for attention. Market days are from Saturday to Monday, and the cafés and restaurants burst at the seams. The rest of the week, it’s a ghost town, but you can still press your nose against the window displays of the antique shops and admire the vibrant street art on shutters. If it’s wine and cheese on your mind, head to Saint-Denis’s covered market instead (Tues/Fri/Sun). Prices are much lower, but outside of the food market, it’s a sprawl of yet more knock-off handbags and trainers.

Website: paris-flea-market.com

The best restaurants in Saint-Ouen and Saint-Denis

Café Jaune, Saint-Ouen

Yellower than an Olympic ring, remember your sunglasses for Café Jaune’s colour-popping tables, walls and façade. The ever-changing menu regularly features Middle Eastern and Asian dishes and a large selection of viennoiseries. Think bánh mì, shakshuka and generous mezze platters.

Address: Café Jaune, 96 Rue des Rosiers, 93400 Saint-Ouen-sur-Seine
Website: instagram.com

Le Blanqui Bistrot, Saint-Ouen

A short menu, generally two or three dishes per course, which, even in large, spidery letters, all fits on a blackboard, Le Blanqui opts for quality over quantity. There’s always at least one vegetarian option, and dishes burst with colour (think purple carrots and sweet potato purée). Check their events schedule for regular live music evenings and DJ sets.

Address: Le Blanqui, 62 Rue des Rosiers, 93400 Saint-Ouen-sur-Seine
Website: instagram.com/leblanquisaintouen

Madame Singe, Saint-Ouen

One of the aforementioned delicatessens revealing little ripples of gentrification, Madame Singe’s sandwiches are difficult to argue with. The amount of filling is so generous that the baguette struggles to hold it all. The cheese counter is positively enormous, and they work with seasonal, organic produce.

Address: Madame Singe, 4 Rue Jules Ferry, 93400 Saint-Ouen-sur-Seine
Website: madamesinge.fr

The best bars in Saint-Ouen and Saint-Denis

Commune Image, Saint-Ouen

If delicatessens are a sign of gentrification, an arts cinema that hosts regular jazz nights and serves picture-perfect cocktails in its on-site bar-restaurant is undoubtedly the epitome of it. A poster child for shabby chic, the walls look like they’ve been painted 50-odd times, and the paint scraped off, leaving a patchwork of textures and muted colours, and the chandeliers are outsized. The cinema is open weekdays only, with the bar open until 9pm. Draught beers, wine, and whatever cocktails take the bar staff’s fancy are served.

Address: Commune Image, 8 Rue Godillot, 93400 Saint-Ouen-sur-Seine
Website: communeimage.com

La Chope des Puces, Saint-Ouen

A weekend-only, pint-sized jazz club within the flea market, La Chope des Puces is open only during daytime hours. Blues, rock and theatre performances also feature in their repertoire. Although the drinks menu is fairly limited (beer, wine and plenty of pastis), the atmosphere and artists they welcome are anything but.

Address: La Chope des Puces, 122 Rue des Rosiers, 93400 Saint-Ouen-sur-Seine
Website: instagram.com

Marché Ô Crêpes, Saint-Ouen

Happy hour lasts from 3pm-8pm, and there’s a comprehensive crêpe menu to soak up your excesses. Eschewing the French penchant for strict timetables, both for meals and happy hours, the kitchen is open all day. The small terrasse is a great people-watching spot, and the service is extremely friendly. Unsurprisingly, there’s a long cider list to pair with the Breton crêpe encyclopaedia.

Address: Marché Ô Crêpes, 26 Rue des Rosiers, 93400 Saint-Ouen-sur-Seine
Website: instagram.com

The best coffee shops in Saint-Denis and Saint-Ouen

Kura Café, Saint-Denis

A heady scent greets you as you walk in – Kura Café roasts its coffee beans on-site, but a café allongé still costs just €2. The wifi is fast and free, the cake slices are generous, and the music, while a little loud, is an eclectic mix that will have you Shazam-ing all the songs.

Address: Kura Café, 103 Rue Gabriel Péri, 93200 Saint-Denis
Website: instagram.com

Cantine Coopérative Pointcarré, Saint-Denis

One of the cheapest lunches you’ll find near the stadium, café/restaurant-cum-shop Pointcarré only has one or two daily dishes, generally vegetarian, and helpings are generous enough for a hungry athlete. The drinks list is extensive, from every kind of coffee imaginable to bottled craft beer, and there’s a lovely selection of handmade clothing and prints for sale.

Address: Boutique Pointcarré, 20 bis Rue Gabriel Péri, 93200 Saint-Denis
Website: boutiquepointcarre.fr

Le Joli Mai, Saint-Ouen

€1 coffee. That’s your sell – even if they double their prices during the Olympics as the Metro and Louvre have done, this will still be one of the cheapest places for a cup of Joe in all of Paris. It’s community-run, and the food is decent, too, often with a tropical twist courtesy of the Cuban chef.

Address: 39 Rue Anselme, 93400 Saint-Ouen-sur-Seine
Website: lejolimai.net

How to get around Saint-Denis and Saint-Ouen

Metro/RER

Saint-Denis and Stade de France Saint-Denis are on RER lines D, and H. Saint-Ouen straddles Metro line 14 and RER C, with Mairie de Saint-Ouen also on line 14 and nearby Garibaldi on line 13. There are Vélib bicycle stations at regular intervals in Saint-Denis, Saint-Ouen and around the Stade de France, but places and bicycles are likely to be limited. Consider renting a bike (with a good lock) for the duration of your trip. There’s an underground bike garage at the Stade de France, which is usually largely empty, even during events.