As the American poet, Adrienne Rich, once said: “The moment of change is the only poem.” And, York’s evolution is in full swing. This means that a trip to the city can include Romans and Vikings, haunted happenings, Gothic spires and sullen snickets, yet also, cutting-edge galleries and museums, innovative independents, Michelin restaurants, and hipster hangouts. And that’s exactly what makes it great for a weekend – or longer.
York’s crowning glory, the mighty, honey-hued Minster is the city’s centrepiece and the medieval hotchpotch of The Shambles with its spooky ginnels has Harry Potter written all over it – but delve under the city’s skin to find its real pulse. There’s a thriving creative scene, thronging local neighbourhood pockets, and a mass of lesser-known things to do. If in doubt about what to see and do, just ask a resident, Yorkshire folk have a reputation for keeping it real.
One of the advantages of tripping to York is its proximity to the Yorkshire countryside and coast – drive around an hour to get to more sensational rugged destinations such as the Runswick Bay or Sandsend, the Yorkshire Dales or Howardian Hills. It’s a more sustainable UK break with regular rail services from London to York taking under two hours.
York and its surroundings are packed with history-rich sights, but the key is in knowing the best local tips. Read on for our insider picks on the best things to do in York, and if you're looking for more tips on where to stay then check out our guide to York.
1. See the best views atop York Minster
A visit to York’s crown jewel, the mighty York Minster is a must. Northern Europe’s largest medieval Gothic cathedral, is a stunner and dates back to 1470 – the jaunty, golden architectural masterpiece is majestic even from the outside. Once inside, it’s hard not to be enamoured by all its compelling features like the intricate and ornate ceiling in the Chapter House, the lofty, hallowed corridors and one of the main fascinations — the beautifully-crafted stained glass windows like the Rose Window.
Book a Hidden Minster Tour, where expert guides take visitors to hidden spaces – such as the Chapter House roof and old Mason’s Loft – that are normally closed to the public. Once above the terracotta rooftops, take in the wonderful 360 views of the city and beyond as far as the chalk White Horse of Kilburn — the trek up is so worth it.
Insider tip: nearby, the lesser-known Treasurer's House is a treat, opt for a guided tour where knowledgeable staff reveal more about its residents and the storied history of the building.
Address: York Minster, Deangate, York YO1 7HH
Website: yorkminster.org
2. Join the queue at iconic Bettys
Bettys is an absolute landmark in the city and there’s something wonderful about it. Get a prime table in the gloriously old-school main cafe, where monochrome-dressed staff serve up delicious food and confectionery, cakes and pastries to lucky guests.
Highlights on the cafe menu include the signature swiss rosti – tip, try the breakfast version – and the homemade schnitzel, fish and chips and handmade burgers. Make sure to order coffee: it comes with all the niceties, in a silver pot with a side of cream.
For those that only have time to swing by, some takeout patisserie will pimp up a day WFH — the vanilla slices are fluffy and crisp, vanilla-sweet, custard-cream pieces of pure patisserie joy.
Insider tip: a popular feature, the seasonal window displays are second-to-none – kids will especially love the festive confections and the Easter bunny.
Address: Bettys Café Tea Rooms, 6-8 St. Helen’s Square, York YO1 8QP
Website: bettys.co.uk
3. Visit The Shambles and Shambles Market
The most frequented street in York prize goes to The Shambles. It would be remiss not to mention it – this perfectly imperfect, medieval, cobblestone street used to be the home to York’s butchers and now is a favourited sight. Try out the shops including The Shop That Must Not Be Named, Monk Bar Chocolatiers and Shambles Kitchen. In the adjoining Shambles Market, there is a fishmonger, a butcher, a baker, food, flower and craft markets, indie shops and eats.
In the compact market area, you can eat your way around the globe, snaffle some crafty trinkets and treat yourself to a bunch of your favourite blooms. Our picks for eats include Stam and Maria Greek Street Food, Krep, and Dough Eyed Pizza.
Insider tip: get to the long-established pie shop The Shambles Sausage and Pie Company before midday to bag the best pies.
4. Walk York’s “Bar Walls”
Start with a walk along York’s City Walls, known as the “Bar Walls” – they’re a piece of history that’s truly unique to York. The ancient Roman walls that ring the city were originally built for defence and there are two miles (3.4km) of surviving masonry. Walking the historical walls, travellers can see the city from all the best angles: the whole route takes around two hours but with the various entrances and exit points, it’s possible to go for a brisk jaunt too.
Insider tip: one section to pick is the part overlooking Grays Court Hotel and its beautiful gardens and York Minster’s gothic glory. Even better, stop by Grays for lunch en route to town – the gardens were made for lingering on a summer's day. Take the kids on an autumn tree watch and see the kaleidoscope of colours from above.
5. Take in York’s museums
York’s museum scene is stacked and it’s possible to have copious days out trekking around them. For a dose of art and culture, go to York Art Gallery – try adjoined Sketch for a coffee pit stop after. For kids, try the Yorkshire Museum for Yorkshire’s Jurassic World, and for everyone, York Castle Museum showcases over 400 years of York’s past. Its neighbour, the recently renovated Clifford’s Tower, the largest remaining part of York Castle and the former centre of the government for the north of England, has a wraparound panorama of the city from the viewing deck.
Insider tip: the most impressive (and also free) museum has to be the National Railway Museum. A trainspotter’s dream: wander the beautiful collection of locomotives, see the world’s fastest steam train, the Mallard, or Shinkansen, the Japanese bullet train. February 2023 marks 100 years since the Flying Scotsman started service, and there will be a programme of events to celebrate.
6. Wander the gardens and parks
The York’s Museum Gardens are planted firmly in the city's heart and are an essential stop at any time of year — pack a picnic and go for some flower power. There’s plenty of space among the colour-bright flora and fauna, and sprawling old ruins and the gardens are dotted with benches. Kids love spotting the resident squirrels and peacocks in the gardens; adults love stopping by The Star Inn the City waterside terrace.
Side note: there are also local riverside walks and access to another York icon — York Explore Library, York’s landmark public library and home of the city archive. Designed by Walter Brierley and opened in 1927 – its hushed archives on the top floor are reminiscent of ‘Trinners’ or Trinity College Dublin.
Other local parks and gardens to visit include the beautifully-kept Homestead Park, or popular Rowntree Park – an incredible park close to the centre that has woodland walks, playgrounds, a skatepark, and a library cafe.
Insider tip: visit the secret garden at Stillingfleet Lodge Gardens just outside the city, in the pretty village of Stillingfleet. It’s a labour of love by a local family – get lost in its maze of gardens and jungle of greenery – finishing in its flower-fringed tea shop.
7. Learn about York’s chocolate dynasties
As the Chocolate City, York’s confectionary past spans chocolate dynasties such as Terry’s and Rowntree’s – let's not forget the iconic Chocolate Orange or Yorkie. Book tickets for York’s Chocolate Story to get an overview of its sweet-toothed history and join a truffle-making class – a winning subject and class to excel in.
Pop by York Cocoa Works for a custom-made hot chocolate from the menu (try the white chocolate), buy a gift of freshly-made fudge from York’s Fudge Kitchen or swing by one of the old-fashioned sweet shops – a bag of rhubarb and custard, please.
Insider tip: buy some milk chocolate salted caramels from local chocolatier Andrew Thwaites – it is a life-changing event. His new culinary venture, a cookery school, will open in York in 2023.
8. Book a spa day
The spa and wellness scene in York is finally ramping up a notch. There are bespoke spa treatments, wellness sessions, and luxurious health suites: the options are growing – making York’s spa day game strong.
Book a spa afternoon at The Grand Hotel, York’s smartest hotel, the spa packages come with access to the glassy pool and steam room. For massages, go to No.1 by Guest House — there’s a soothing menu of treatments. In the lavender-scented hotel basement spa, therapists offer a bespoke service – take home some Pinks Boutique wild mint oil. On the outskirts of York, visit timeless Middlethorpe Hall for a country retreat spa session and tea on the grounds straight out of Bridgerton.
Insider tip: try a Finnish sauna in the wild at Pool Bridge Farm on the outskirts of York with Whitby Well Being. Go for a cold plunge in the wild water swimming lake afterwards, depending on how brave you are.
9. Go on a spooky ghost walk or bus
Who you gonna call? York’s been called the “Most haunted city in Europe” and there have been many ghost stories and sightings such as the Grey Lady at York Theatre Royal. Many of York’s notable buildings have recorded eerie activities and, of course, there’s always a long queue for the little ghost souvenirs from The York Ghost Merchants.
Picks for tours and walks include The Bloody Tour of York, The York Ghost Bus Tour, The Original Ghost Walk of York or The Deathly Dark Tour.
Insider tip: visit The Golden Fleece pub which reportedly is the most haunted pub in York with 15 ghosts. Or, visit when the mesh ghosts are on display in York Museum Gardens if all else fails – these pretty silver-mesh ghosts are dotted all over the Museum Gardens every year.
10. Have tea at The Cat’s Whiskers
The York Cat Trail is a quirky local walking trail around York. In 1920, Sir Stephen Aitcheson put two cat sculptures on his building in Low Ousegate – possibly to scare away rats – and the idea caught on and other people followed suit, using little cat figures as lucky charms. In 1979, architect Tom Adams started to design buildings with little black cats planted on top to further the tradition. Now there’s quite the selection.
You can join the York Cat Trail at the Cat Gallery Shop. The walking trail takes in all the fabulous felines around the city and its surroundings.
Insider tip: end with a visit to York’s only cat cafe, The Cat’s Whiskers. Have a cuppa with the kitties or just tag along for the purr-fest.
Address: The Cat’s Whiskers, 46 Goodramgate, York YO1 7LF
Websites: thecatswhiskersyork.co.uk
11. Go to the races
The York Races mean the crowds land on the South Bank neighbourhood throughout the racing season – truth be told, for locals, there’s often a comedy sight or three – as previously suited and booted visitors leave the racecourse looking dishevelled. But it’s a bonus having easy access to York Racecourse and its annual line-up of events – there’s more than horse racing on offer.
The venue plays host to many established events, including concerts, conventions, fairs and shows. The Music Showcase Weekend includes racing and live music, and last year saw Madness hit the stage; the CAMRA Beer and Cider Festival is always a hit.
Insider tip: go for Comic-Con – a cool expo for anime fans.
Address: York Racecourse, Racecourse Road, Knavesmire Road, York YO23 1EX
Website: yorkracecourse.co.uk
12. Seek out the best old pubs
As a city packed with imbibing establishments (more than 365) – where do you start? There are plenty of cosy old pubs, sleek wine bars and cocktail spots. But really, York does old boozers best.
Notable pubs to mention are the Guy Fawkes Inn for its marvellously wonky wooden floors and a history lesson on Yorkshire’s notorious plotter. For a more modern version, the beer garden at The Fossgate Social is one of our favourites.
Insider tip: go to The Blue Bell. York’s smallest pub should be high on your agenda – it’s a little wood-panelled Edwardian beauty dating back to 1798. Once inside, it feels a bit like your granny's living room – in a good way. Go for the local banter and impeccable service, this is a place where they’ll always remember your order.
13. Go to a festival or shop the independents'
York’s indie scene is what makes it so special – the abundance of independents, makers and bakers makes it easy to support locals. Slap-bang in the centre, Shambles Market is the place to swing by; or visit Goodramgate, Fossgate or the Fifth Quarter of Gillygate and Bootham just outside of the city belt, once in the burbs, it’s Bishopthorpe Road.
The roster of festivals happening in York every year keeps growing and includes York Ice Trail, Jorvik Viking Festival, York Chocolate Festival, York Food and Drink Festival, York Festival of Ideas, Fossgate Festival, York Pride, York Christmas Festival, not forgetting York Fashion Week – the list goes on. It’s worth planning a visit around one of the big festivals to tap into the buzz.
Insider tip: just outside the city in the North York Moors National Park try the Dark Skies Festival – go stargazing or join an astrophotography workshop in a ravishing countryside location.
14. Get tickets for a show or a community disco
York’s theatre scene is hopping but the main venues to look out for include York Theatre Royal, The Grand Opera House and York Barbican – all hosting a stream of international events and performances. Formerly The Odeon, Everyman York offers a deluxe film experience. It's the only place for movie night: the small screening rooms, luxe seating and in-cinema menu make for the best tickets in town – go for the latest releases or a true classic like It’s a Wonderful Life at Christmas.
Insider tip: a former working men’s club, The Crescent, is the coolest performance and live music venue with a comprehensive line-up including gigs, DJs, billiards, video games, pool – and local ales, of course. Go for The Escape Club, a big community disco for all.
15. Go green and cycle the planets
As York is ideally located within striking distance of rugged Yorkshire countryside it’s easy to access some pretty walks and cycle routes. Insider picks include cycling the planets – cycling from York to Naburn on the York Solar System route.
This local route is a scale model of the solar system (and 6.4 miles, 10km) running along the old East Coast mainline railway. There are models of all the planets dotted along the route (65), and it takes in the surrounding countryside from York Racecourse, allowing a stop at Brunswick Organic Nursery and continuing on to the petite village of Naburn and the locks – a beautiful enclave of York with a picturesque marina and several country loop walks.
Insider tip: Other top rides include the riverside cycle from York city centre to Beningbrough Hall and Home Farm or drive to Beningbrough Hall and do the circular walking route with the secret ‘beach’ for Constable-like scenes of the English countryside.