This ancient practice has become 2024's biggest wellness trend

Truthfully, despite being Indian, I didn’t take that much interest in Ayurvedic beauty until the pandemic. There was something about that time – specifically, being cut off from the usual break-neck pace of life – that made me want to examine my wellness routines and connect to my heritage more.

It wasn’t just me: interest in practices like tongue scraping and oil pulling for dental health was rising; ashwagandha was becoming a go-to for TikTok wellness gurus and beauty brands started adding turmeric and saffron to their products with abandon. The “no poo” movement that eschews traditional shampoo in favour of Ayurvedic shampoo powders like Amla (Indian gooseberry) or Shikaka (an Indian herb) was taking off, too. Since then, the practice of Ayurveda has continued to grow in the Western beauty world.

Below, we take a look at what exactly Ayurveda is, discuss some of the issues surrounding cultural appropriation and Western whitewashing, and explain how to authentically embrace Ayurveda in your beauty routines.

What is Ayurveda?

Ayurveda is an ancient holistic system of medicine that originated in India over 5,000 years ago. It is derived from the Sanskrit words “ayur,” meaning life, and “veda,” meaning knowledge or science. Ayurveda focuses on achieving balance and harmony in the body, mind and spirit to promote overall health and well-being.

Central to Ayurvedic philosophy is the belief that each person is made up of a unique combination of the five elements: air, water, fire, earth, and ether. These elements combine to form three distinct mind-body types or doshas: Vata (air and ether), Pitta (fire and water), and Kapha (earth and water). According to Ayurveda, maintaining the balance of these doshas is essential for good health, while imbalances can lead to illness.

Ayurvedic practitioners use various techniques to restore balance, including herbal remedies, dietary adjustments, massage, yoga, meditation and cleansing practices such as detoxification or purification therapies known as Panchakarma.

Ayurveda emphasises the importance of individualised treatment, recognising that each person’s constitution and imbalances are unique. The practice is considered a complementary and alternative medicine in many parts of the world, though it continues to be widely practised in India, often alongside Western medicine; a 2018 study found that 80 per cent of Indian households used Ayurvedic products of some kind.

Why is Ayurveda trending now?

The slow reclamation of ancient beauty and wellness rituals in the West shows no sign of abating. This is partially thanks to the allure of a simpler time, without a 15-step beauty routine every morning and evening. But it’s also about reconnecting to ourselves, which is something Western beauty often ignores.

Akash Mehta, entrepreneur and co-founder of Fable & Mane, explains: “People are searching for more meaning and balance in their life, so they are looking to ancient cultures like India for wisdom and holistic remedies that have been proven for over 5,000 years. The popularity of yoga and meditation practices has also given rise to an interest in Ayurvedic wellness and beauty, too.”

Much of that interest has come in the form of social media influencers, although many who begin lauding the benefits of new practices often miss giving due credit to the practice’s origins. But some brands are reclaiming that ancient heritage, like Inde Wild, created by influencer Diipa Khosla. Her Champi hair oil was formulated in partnership with her mother, an ayurvedic practitioner (who, incidentally, has the most incredible hair I’ve ever seen.)

Though practices like hair oiling – when reduced to a 15-second clip – may just seem like another beauty trend to try, this misses the point entirely, says Anita Kaushal, founder of long-standing British Ayurvedic brand Mauli Rituals. “We are not separate from our mind and body, so you can use the best skin or hair care that money can buy, but if you haven’t dealt with your emotional blockages, you may not feel truly healthy or look radiant, and that’s what Ayurveda can help address,” she explains.

This disconnect between our bodies and our minds could be why the global Ayurveda product market is undergoing serious growth. “Its market size was valued at 6.50 billion dollars in 2020, and is projected to reach 21.12 billion dollars by 2028,” says Mira Kulkarni, Founder & Chairperson of Forest Essentials. “This has to do not only with a growing awareness of the practice of Ayurveda in the Western world, but also comes from consumers visiting India,” she adds.

There has been record growth in travel interest to Kerala, the home of Ayurveda, within Indian domestic tourism, and according to 2023 data from Kayak, bookings from the UK to India grew by 29 per cent, surpassing pre-pandemic rates. Plus, there’s been a solid rise in flights from the US to India, too. Why is that? When 74 per cent of people in the UK alone have felt unable to cope at one point in the last year, searching for authentic, connected experiences in one of the most spiritual places in the world makes a lot of sense.

This rise may also be due to consumer demand for clarity in beauty ingredients. “The most fundamental Ayurvedic standard is that ‘if you cannot eat it, do not use it on your skin. In that sense, Ayurveda has pioneered the idea of Clean Beauty,’” Mira says.

What are the concerns with the Westernisation of Ayurveda?

As mentioned, the increase in Western use of Ayurveda is often unaccompanied by an acknowledgement of the practice’s origins and history. Although scientific research on Ayurveda is growing, it has yet to reach the same extent as pharmaceutical treatments, due to funding issues and a lack of interest from the pharmaceutical industries – that is, until they realise they can capitalise on Ayurvedic practices. Back in 1997, the US Patent and Trademark Office was forced to revoke a patent granted in 1995 to US researchers on the use of powdered turmeric for wound healing. India’s Council of Scientific and Industrial Research argued that the native Indian plant had been used in Ayurvedic healing for centuries, and so didn’t fit the “novelty” criteria that was required for patenting.

That isn’t the only example of whitewashing of Ayurveda, or the most shocking. Western medicine was introduced to India when it was under British and European colonial rule (which started in the 16th century and only ended in 1947), with the aim of benefitting those who wanted their “superior” medical practices from home. But instead of letting both medical systems exist side by side, Ayurveda was deemed “irrational, dangerous and superstitious” and was banned as a way to exert cultural force over the colony. Ayurvedic schools were shut down, sacred texts were burnt, and teachers were forced to stop practising. Some accounts report that Ayurvedic doctors had their three middle fingers cut off to stop them from doing pulse diagnosis.

This brutality didn’t stop Ayurveda from rising in popularity again both during and post-colonial rule, partly due to its integrative approach to healing that Western medicine didn’t allow for.

For example, Ayurvedic tradition dictates that hair is not just a symbol of beauty but can also indicate issues with our overall health, like nutritional deficiencies, stress, or hormonal imbalances, which are the first things that dermatologists and trichologists in Western medicine would check now.

“The difference is that hair care in Ayurveda goes beyond surface-level treatments; it encompasses these underlying causes through a balanced diet, powerful herbs and lifestyle practices like hair oiling to massage the scalp and promote circulation,” says Shikha Ramjutan, clinical pharmacist and founder of hair growth brand Reset. “These practices are deeply ingrained in the culture and have been passed down through generations, highlighting the importance of hair as an integral part of self-care and wellness.” Every ingredient is chosen for a reason; Australian Ayurvedic brand Subtle Energies, for example, uses anti-microbial tulsi and cortisol-reducing saffron in its Aura Protection Body Mist, so that it can be used as both a fragrance or meditation tool to aid both body and mind.

How can we embrace Ayurveda authentically?

Phrases like “woo woo” are often still thrown around in regards to Ayurveda, but this is ludicrous considering that practices like mindfulness, yoga, breathwork and many more that come from ancient Indian Vedic texts and are all proven to be effective by modern science.

Perhaps part of the issue is that the Ayurvedic philosophy may be challenging to grasp, explains Shirin Van Lare, Ayurvedic therapist and founder of Bourii. “In the West, there’s often an attempt to simplify Ayurveda for a society that may not be familiar with these practices – we sometimes hear doshas being compared to star signs as it’s a relatable example, but it is more complex than that and involves a proper diagnosis to ensure that the five elements are balanced for optimal health,” she adds.

Many Ayurvedic beauty founders are undeniably proud to share cultural practices. “Ayurveda holds a significant place in our identity and represents a rich cultural heritage, timeless wisdom and holistic wellness practices passed down through generations. Not many people know this, but the invention of shampoo originated in India, stemming back thousands of years through Ayurveda,” Metha says.

But this is also why cultural appropriation is such an issue. When brands appropriate Ayurvedic ingredients or concepts, it can diminish the practice for people from that heritage, inaccurately representing this ancient cultural practice and diverting profit from founders of Indian heritage. It’s also never quite as good; I am confident your chai latte from a chain coffee shop is nothing compared to Chai By Mira.

So, how do you make sure you’re getting an authentic experience? Picking where you get your Ayurvedic products from is crucial, Vivek Sahni, founder of Indian Ayurvedic brand Kama Ayurveda, which now has a flagship UK store and treatment rooms in London’s Notting Hill, with Ayurvedic treatments and products also available at Harrods. “The quality of any natural product is dependent on factors like the sourcing, location and timing, so we prioritise sourcing from premium locations like Kannauj for Roses, Kashmir for Saffron, and the Himalayan region for Sweet Almonds,” he explains. “Each ingredient is hand-picked to ensure the finest quality, and the meticulous formulation process with Ayurvedic experts enhances their potency.”

In an ideal world, perhaps every brand that dipped into Ayurvedic knowledge would source ingredients ethically and consult with Ayurvedic doctors to ensure their blends are truly effective for their customers, but that isn’t always the case.

“Ideally, Ayurveda should be credited by the brands who benefit from it,” says Ayurvedic beauty founder Michelle Ranavat. “But I try to focus my energy on creating educational content, with authentic products to help bring more organic awareness to Ayurveda and how helpful it can be for all people.” Some of that content includes homemade recipes that help the body heal from the inside, whilst her brand, Ranavat, uses Ayurvedic blends to beautify the outside. “Ultimately, Westernisation will happen as we modernise as a society, but the beauty of Ayurveda is that it adapts to our lifestyle. I don’t live a full Ayurvedic lifestyle, so I just take the parts that work for me.”

Where can you get an authentic Ayurvedic treatment experience?

These are just a few of the Ayurvedic spas and retreats around the world that offer high-quality Ayurvedic treatments and holistic wellness experiences.

Ananda in the Himalayas, India

Located in the foothills of the Himalayas in Uttarakhand, Ananda is a luxury Ayurvedic retreat offering a range of traditional Ayurvedic treatments, yoga, meditation, and wellness programs. Set amidst breathtaking natural scenery, Ananda provides a serene and rejuvenating environment for true holistic healing.

Website: anandaspa.com

Kalari Kovilakom, India

Situated in Kerala, Kalari Kovilakom is a palace-turned-heritage Ayurvedic resort dedicated to authentic Ayurvedic treatments and therapies. Guests can experience personalised Ayurvedic consultations, herbal treatments, yoga, and meditation in a tranquil and traditional setting – minus digital distractions.

Website: cghearthayurveda.com

Ayurveda Parkschlösschen, Germany

Ayurveda Parkschlösschen is a renowned Ayurvedic wellness centre outside of India. It offers authentic Ayurvedic treatments, consultations, detoxification programs, and yoga in a peaceful and luxurious environment.

Website: ayurveda-parkschloesschen.de

The Raj Ayurveda Health Spa, USA

Located in Fairfield, Iowa, The Raj is a renowned Ayurvedic health spa in the US. It offers traditional Ayurvedic treatments, therapies, and consultations by experienced Ayurvedic practitioners in a serene and supportive atmosphere.

Website: theraj.com

Bulgari Hotel London, UK

Experience a Mauli Rituals treatment at the luxurious Bulgari spa. Each treatment is designed to target the body and mind, and starts with a one-to-one consultation, and is followed by one of four specialist treatments, including Prana, a mineral-rich massage using Marma Therapy to optimise the flow of energy in the body and Oja Surrender, an oil-rich full-body healing treatment.

Website: bulgarihotels.com