Here’s why Asturias is Spain’s greenest secret

As one of the world’s most-visited countries, it’s hard to believe that any part of Spain could be considered a well-kept travel secret. But head to Asturias, on the country’s northernmost point, and the eclectic mix of experiences on offer will surprise even the most seasoned traveller. Ideally situated between the Cantabrian sea and soaring mountains, a third of the region’s lush area is environmentally protected. Here’s what our writer discovered.

Mountain highs

My trip commenced with a rural mountain experience – a stay at one of the traditional cabins set within the Somiedo Natural Park. Spanning five valleys and lakes, Somiedo offers immersive experiences, including ample hiking routes for all levels, and rich fauna. There are 400 brown bears roaming free through the Cantabrian Mountains and with help from local guide Sofía González Berdasco of Somiedo Experience, I got to see a mother bear and her two cubs – a magical moment. Along with the Natural Park of Fuentes del Narcea, Degaña and Ibias, UNESCO biosphere Somiedo offers an opportunity to observe them in their natural habitat.

Riding the wave

Swapping the mountains for the coast, I headed to Gijón. It’s the region’s largest city and a hotspot for surfers, with one of most emblematic urban beaches in Asturias. At Playa de San Lorenzo, one of the city’s top places for catching waves, I met the region’s surf champion and instructor Alicia Takahashi Delgado (@alicia_taka). As a local who fell in love with the sport as a child, Takahashi Delgado told me the city’s secret: “Gijón is a beautiful place to start because we have waves for all abilities, so it doesn't matter if you’re starting out or are a professional surfer.” As well as teaching me the basics, she also impresses upon me some of the values of Asturias as a region – a constant dedication to respecting the environment while utilising its natural benefits.

Dairy delights

This Asturian philosophy also comes through in their epicurean highlights. The region is renowned for its range of delicacies - including a dry cider that is poured in a special way, with the bottle held high above the head, and –most notably – its cheese. Cabrales is a signature rich and creamy blue made from cow’s milk in the heart of the Picos de Europa mountain range. The twist? This cheese matures in natural caves, making the aromatic product an integral part of the region’s identity. Indeed, walking through these caves is best followed by actually tasting their cheesy by-products.

Tradition revisited

With nature and food covered, I next went to explore the cultural heritage of Asturias’ urban areas. Fashion designer Celia Bernado (@celiabdesigner), the founder of eponymous brand Celia B, was more than happy to help. Her exuberant, colourful designs represent a modern interpretation of Asturian tradition, which becomes apparent only a few steps into the old town of Oviedo, the region’s capital. Filled with mementos of Spain’s past, with colourful architecture and sculptures peppered throughout, Oviedo looks like an elaborate set from a Hollywood blockbuster of years gone by. “After years of living abroad, almost a decade in Asia, I wanted to come back to my roots. I felt that I wanted to be near my family and there was something that was calling me to explore more of my origins, my roots,” says Bernado.

During a quick pit-stop in the city’s century-old bakery Camilo De Blas, the designer tells me of the creative energy that’s currently pouring out of Asturias, a somewhat unlikely backdrop for this cultural flourish. “It takes a lot of courage to [create here] because we are out of the main circuits of fashion and arts,” she says. “But there's a lot of things happening and it feels like a luxury to be able to be here - we have this amazing quality of life, while also being able to communicate with the rest of the world.”

The next generation

Just a half-hour drive from Oviedo is Avilés, a coastal town with ample character. Before entering the city, you are halted by an imposing structure: the Oscar Niemeyer International Cultural Centre. Designed by the famed Brazilian architect, this multi-purpose building hosts arts exhibitions and cinema screenings as well as a modern restaurant with scenic views. There, I met with Oliver Iglesias (@oliveriglesias), an emerging fashion designer and creative director who, like Niemeyer did when designing the building, uses his rural surroundings as inspiration for contemporary urban designs. His brand, 93 Sierra/CrossesOSSES, references Asturias “through its mountains, rivers, beaches and sea,” he explains. “I do like to contrast those designs with the steel industry, mining, the Unions, all of which are very visually striking. I really like that contrast; that play of colours.”

To me, this is what encapsulates the charm of Asturias – though rich with history and natural wonders, the region and its locals are unafraid to embrace newness and modernity. Whether you go to the coast or into the mountains, for a surf or a cultural tour of historic sites, it’s a region that reveals a different side to Spain. In Asturias, expect the unexpected.

Plan your next holiday and learn more about the wonders of Asturias by visiting Tourism Asturias